How does it drive now that its completely reassembled w/ refurbished seats. Interior pics please. Looks better w/ the skirts on.
Turning your neighborhood into a 70s scene, I like that
Thanks! Agree on Buttercup's skirts. Look at it from the rear, as you say (and @tbm3fan implies), the lines flows perfectly (photo courtesy @71Polara383) with the skirts on:So glad the skirts are on Buttercup...the lines of the trim extend through so well. Surprised so many take them off.
That stripe on Medina...arghhh! Totally interrupts the lines on the car. I'd get a colour match blow in done in that burgundy to eliminate that tragedy.
Such beauties.
Whitewalls on a truck - that is a novelty.
Your Dodge out-styles them all! Even the lower body line is a styling touch that is still in vogue today.
I agree w your assessment on older OEM radiators is pretty spot on. High efficiency radiators are exactly as you described. They are however very sensitive to degraded coolant and and long service intervals. Small cooling tubes do plug up much faster. I saw that a lot in high end performance cars before I retired. Do the proper coolant maintenance and you will have no problems. My personal experience is unmodified cars w/ clean 3 row rad. and proper working fan clutch and fan shroud didn't over heat.I too am a stickler for having a top tank that reflects a radiator available in your model.
Then next choice is what kind of a core are you going to choose - a standard replacement core or a high efficiency core? Since you generally drive in a part of the country that doesn't see very high temperatures combined with slow traffic congestion, I would guess you are going to choose the standard replacement, which generally would be a 3 row core for your model. If one lives in high temperature areas but rarely sees much traffic congestion, then the standard replacement radiator should be adequate since I have never had problems with on highway driving with the factory radiators - only in traffic conditions do the temperatures rise considerably. For highway driving, radiator depth/rows of fins matters most while driving in traffic conditions, radiator width matters the most.
For areas that I live in, maximum cooling is usually my choice and the price difference between the two is quite large. The high efficiency cores have more rows of tubes that are smaller than in the standard efficiency cores (that permits more tubes per inch) and higher fin density; the former also implies that it is more important to keep high efficiency cores very clean over time by more frequent coolant changes. Today's coolants are now touting 10 year life spans so at least that issue is less of a maintenance concern than in the past.
In my area, high efficiency core radiators, out the door, are around $680 while the standard cores are about $100 cheaper (26" radiator width).
I agree w your assessment on older OEM radiators is pretty spot on. High efficiency radiators are exactly as you described. They are however very sensitive to degraded coolant and and long service intervals. Small cooling tubes do plug up much faster. I saw that a lot in high end performance cars before I retired. Do the proper coolant maintenance and you will have no problems. My personal experience is unmodified cars w/ clean 3 row rad. and proper working fan clutch and fan shroud didn't over heat.
For me, I prefer a stock rad as well...only problem is that re-coring is a dying art and nobody does it here anymore. You are lucky to be able to have that 3 core done.[/QUOTE PM me and I will forward the information on the shop I use
For me, I prefer a stock rad as well...only problem is that re-coring is a dying art and nobody does it here anymore. You are lucky to be able to have that 3 core done.
Well, being in the Canadian Air Force it changes...hence the tongue in cheek...but for now Winnipeg.I forgot, where is "all over"?
Well, being in the Canadian Air Force it changes...hence the tongue in cheek...but for now Winnipeg.