Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop

[ayilar]

@ayilar Who looks under the hood on the CATL Drives?

As you know, I never enter a car into any concours — the only reason why I try to stay « correct » is for myself, not for anyone else. Indeed … I do look at my own car, and seeing a tidy period-correct engine bay is something I really enjoy.

This said, driving is what it’s mostly about for me, and that’s why the key thing here is that the Denso wires fit properly (without any extra length floating around) and are working properly.

A few pics, courtesy of @71Polara383 yesterday

 

[73Coupe]

Any pics of the Denso wires by chance? Despite being basically the "Mopar equivalent" for Toyotas, Denso makes quality components, from my own observations working on friends' Toyotas over the years.... combine Denso wires with NGK plugs for the complete package.

Despite having a preference for Pertronix "make-ur-own" 7mm wire kits I might look into the Denso wires when it comes time for my 71.

 

[ayilar]

Any pics of the Denso wires by chance? Despite being basically the "Mopar equivalent" for Toyotas, Denso makes quality components, from my own observations working on friends' Toyotas over the years.... combine Denso wires with NGK plugs for the complete package.

Despite having a preference for Pertronix "make-ur-own" 7mm wire kits I might look into the Denso wires when it comes time for my 71.

For your 1971, note that @Big_John has reported that he uses Lectric Limited date-coded correct-look troops with his 1970 with Pertronix. LL wires is what I use on all my 1970-1971 Mopars.

 

[73Coupe]

For your 1971, note that @Big_John has reported that he uses Lectric Limited date-coded correct-look troops with his 1970 with Pertronix. LL wires is what I use on all my 1970-1971 Mopars.

Nice, thanks. I like those too. Dated 3-Q-70 or 1-Q-71 = not sure what Q means but I take it 3 = March, ect...?

 

[ayilar]

Nice, thanks. I like those too. Dated 3-Q-70 or 1-Q-71 = not sure what Q means but I take it 3 = March, ect...?

Quarter nbr AFAIK — pick the quarter to be a few months before your car’s SBD.

 

[hanks71440]

As you know, I never enter a car into any concours — the only reason why I try to stay « correct » is for myself, not for anyone else. Indeed … I do look at my own car, and seeing a tidy period-correct engine bay is something I really enjoy.

This said, driving is what it’s mostly about for me, and that’s why the key thing here is that the Denso wires fit properly (without any extra length floating around) and are working properly.

A few pics, courtesy of @71Polara383 yesterday

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beautiful!

 

[ayilar]

Pickup time!

 

[ayilar]

Beautiful drive through the lush fields of the Corn Belt.

 

[ayilar]

Arrived at destination. Zero issue thanks to the work of @71Polara383 — thank you Wyatt!

 

[Boydsdodge]

This morning, @71Polara383 replaced Buttercup's rear shocks with new Gabriel 81091 units, as recommended by @Ripinator — the KYB KG5512 shocks that I like so much on my fusie Dodges are too short for the 1972-1973 Chrysler’s and the KG5513 that @1970FuryConv found to be correct for 1972-73 Chryslers have been discontinued.

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Right after that, I swapped Medina (my 1971 Monaco) and Buttercup. Here are a few photos.

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Needless to say, tanking up was a good idea before heading out

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I understand this is a year old post, but the KYB rear shocks KG5413 are available at RockAuto.
More Information for KYB KG5413
I don't understand how I missed this thread first time around. Please excuse if this shock question has been discussed later in thread.

 

[MattfromMaine]

Looking great!!!! I hope my gold Newport is in the same place as your NY'er next summer. I'm going to be busy in the garage this winter!

 

[cuda hunter]

That is one gooood looking car there! How many miles did you drive it so far?

 

[ayilar]

I understand this is a year old post, but the KYB rear shocks KG5413 are available at RockAuto.
More Information for KYB KG5413
I don't understand how I missed this thread first time around. Please excuse if this shock question has been discussed later in thread.

One-year posts are "old"? This is FCBO, not FaceBook -- we like searching threads

The KG5413 are indeed available, but AFAIK they are not what the doctor ordered for Buttercup (1972) or Ming (1973). The KG5513 is what I believe is needed for a 1972-1973 C-body, as posted by @1970FuryConv here -- but the 5513 is discontinued as per the discussion between Ben and @Ripinator here.

Please correct me otherwise?

PS: I went with Gabriel 81091 shocks in the back, following Rip's recommendation on the basis of his experience with his 1973 Newport Navajo, but now it is time to change Buttercup's fronts. I just ordered a set of KYB KG5512, which I have installed on several C-bodies (1970 G-code & L-code Polara 'verts, driven 4k+ miles with them; 1970 U-code 300 'vert, driven 1.5k miles with it; 1971 T-code Monaco 2dr, driven 12k+ miles) and like the 5512 on all of them.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Agree. Chrysler Plymouth c-bodies 1972-1973 require a longer rear shock than KG5413. Extended Length (in) 24.45 .94” short of full spring travel. Not having full travel can interfere with removing rear tires and can damage shocks, depending on what kind of driving you do.

 

[ayilar]

Thanks to @71Polara383 Buttercup once again has a functional horn. The original rimblow steering wheel was cracked in multiple places: repairing it might have been an option except that, despite months of searching, I could not find the switch needed to fix it.

For safety and practicality, I therefore decided to replace it with a 3-spoke wheel from a regular NYer. The « new » wheel is technically incorrect for a 1972 NYB (a non-tilt rimblow was standard that one year) but would have been correct on a 1972-1973 NYer and on a 1973 NYB (the rimblow became an option on the top Chrysler once again in ‘73).
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Earlier this week, I took a photo of the center emblem. AFAIK, it is the same center for all 1972-1973 (and perhaps 1971) Chrysler 3-spoke steering wheels.

Posting it here for records. I took it at a slight angle to show the amount of relief (3D aspect ratio). Please do not mind the dust, I need to go through the interior after a 3-hour drive with the windows down

 

[ayilar]

Buttercup just finished the 2022 CATL and drove flawlessly the whole time, as she had after I picked her up from @71Polara383 almost two weeks ago. The mileage is 14.5 mpg over 2 weeks and close to 500 miles, a good number in my book for such a car/engine combo.

After I decided in July that I did not have the time to drive her to Carlisle, I put a host of smaller fixes on hold (items that i would have fixed if I had gone to PA with her). Time to do those things. She is now going to get new front shocks (KYB 4507), get her blower and heater box to work properly, etc. Looking forward to driving her again this fall, after that’s done!

PS: here is some eye candy from the Grissom Air Museum in Indiana, that I took yesterday.

 

[david hill]

@ayilar dropped off Butter after the CATL for planed repairs. On the list is restoration of the blower operation & rebuild the heater box w/ new foam seals. While inspecting the radiator was found leaking along w/ the heater hoses. A performance check found low temp output from the heater at full command hot (it was done by bypassing the w/ a jumper wire too the blower mtr). A new heater core is on its way. The big surprise today was the amount of corrosion found inside the evaporator as the photos show. It must be replaced before any A/C operation can be restored. Overall heater box condition was very good w/ all actuators working w/ exception of the heater vac control switch which was the source of the no blower problem. Other repairs are to the rear-view mirror to retain position adjustments. Brake inspection found the rear wheel cylinders ned replacement along w/ the master cylinder. Other repairs include repairing the exhaust leak (manifold gaskets), door glass adjustments and replacement of all ball joints and control arm bushings. Check the photos.

 

[david hill]

more photos

 

[david hill]

more photos

 

[saforwardlook]

I too am surprised at the amount of corrosion in the a/c system - I don't think I have ever seen that degree before. The whole system will need a flush and the evaporator might be worth while replacing too while you are doing the heater core. At least those parts are obtainable from the source we have discussed at length in the past. Lots to do...........................