Modern DIN radio in 1972 fury dash

MoparGabe

Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2023
Messages
53
Reaction score
103
Location
portland
IMG_5955.jpeg

Wanting to mount this modern Pioneer radio into my fuselage. Was wondering if anyone has successfully mounted a Din radio and how they did it in there C body
IMG_5962.jpeg
 
I haven't ever tried to install a new radio in place of the original as I really like the look of the old radio/original dash. If you aren't set on installing the new unit you may consider having the original radio rebuilt. I did this in my 1968 Fury III and plan to do the same in my 1968 300.

I liked this upgrade because it kept the original appearance and gave me all the features of a modern stereo. Bluetooth, hands free calling, Stereo output, FM, Amp Outputs. All housed in the original radio.

I used Tayman and had good luck with them: Tayman Electrical stereo solutions for collector cars

If I remember correctly it was $300-$400 with shipping to have this done.
 
Second on using Tayman for a radio update. Yea, not cheap, but the results are fantastic.

I have them in two cars, probably going to be in another one too.
 
I've done several right in the place of the original, no cutting. Use the dash brace from the old radio.
 
Old school 90's pioneer cd player fit factory hole almost perfect in my 70, no cutting. Not sure what I'll do if it ever dies, been in there since early 2000's
 
No, there is a support that goes from a threaded stud on the back of the radio to the dash frame. You don't "need" it but the radio will be loose if not. It'll kind of slop up and down from its own weight.
 
Seems to me you need a section of angle iron to allow the 2 front bolts on the original radio to bolt to the dash frame . Then another piece of metal to make a flat shelf to allow the new radio cage to attach to. That and filler pieces on left and right.
 
Seems to me you need a section of angle iron to allow the 2 front bolts on the original radio to bolt to the dash frame . Then another piece of metal to make a flat shelf to allow the new radio cage to attach to. That and filler pieces on left and right.

No!
 
why No?. The new radio is in a mount cage that typically is bent around surrounding plastic or dash support structure.
 
From the OP's initial picture, the factory trim plate/bezel appears larger than the replacement radio. I can see this as a problem, the gaps around the side would be visible and allow the radio to flop and vibrate, definitely a no-no for long term usage, not to mention it would it would look like a total amateur hack job if left as is.

From my perspective, if it were ME, I'd acquire a textured plastic plate (Amazon sells them, I got a sheet to replace the dash panel to install new sport gauges), cut and trim it to fit the original hole. Mounting it may be tricky, requiring removing the entire dash panel to glue or "weld" the plastic together on the backside (with a wood burner or soldering iron, with paper clips or staples as "stiches" to lend structural support).

As far as frame support, the original radio has a threaded stud on the backside that corresponds to a metal tab deeper within the dash to serve as a grounding lead & weight support. It also doubles as an anti-theft deterrent (the head unit won't just slide forward out of the dash easily). It will be up to the installer to provide a metal bracket and additional nut/bolt to bridge the distance. Today's head units are dramatically smaller than the older, old school radios of yesteryear. Some radio manufacturers do provide a metal strap for just this, but not all, and for the ones that do, the strap may not be long enough for the task. Many modern radios are designed for installation into recent cars that already have a rectangular shaped DIN hole, and later model factory units are much smaller than a 50ish year old car radio. Also, most "retro" styled units are made to be drop in replacements into Fords and GMs that came with twin posts mounted OUTSIDE the display, as opposed to Mopar's offset posts.

Modern off-the-shelf radios are compact, feature laden units, many come with a remote control, and dramatically cheaper than customized retro units that require you sending in YOUR original radio for upgrading. That Pioneer radio probably only cost a hundred bucks or so, versus a $300-400 custom job. On the one hand, a retro job will drop in easy peasy, lemon squeezy, look like original equipment, and with the original AM face, be practically theft proof, however it comes at a steep price and may not come near the number of fancy features baked into that cheaper Pioneer unit.

Installing a modern sound system into a classic ride isn't easy. I have seen dozens of examples at car shows where the owner decided to leave the original radio intact and chose to install the newer unit inside the glovebox or built a custom console around it under the dash and/or atop the trans tunnel. That last option can also provide the car with a storage box and cup holders too, something the classic car may not have.

You have options, none of them cheap or easy. Check around online or in the "yellow pages" if they still exist in your area. There are companies and businesses that specialize in just this. If you can find one, ask them for proof of their work, most reputable shops keep photos of their stuff if they're any good at it and proud of their work. Ask around at local car shows and car clubs, check out what they have, ask how they did it and/or who did it. Chrysler did their radios quite differently than other manufacturers back in the day, which presents challenges to today's enthusiast.

Sorry for such a big reply.
 
why No?. The new radio is in a mount cage that typically is bent around surrounding plastic or dash support structure.

I've installed several over the years in multiple cars. They easily slide in as pictured by the OP. They stay in place within the dash bezel with the help of the factory support bracket behind the dash as I mentioned.
 
@MoparGabe , Here's another option. I have a 72 Coronet wagon, and by appearance it has the same radio as yours. Both shafts are on the left with the radio dial on the right. My car is a very nice survivor so I didn't want to cut the dash for a DIN radio or alter it for a standard shaft radio. I wanted something that looked more like the factory unit.

Originally I ordered one made by radiosforoldcars.com. They are a manufacturer only, I actually ordered it from Custom Auto Sound. The factory link to the radio is below. If you scroll down you'll see their unit for a 71-74 B body radio. I think this will fit your Fury as well. My research showed this one to be as close to factory original as possible. However they are VERY expensive. That said, it sure looks nice. I wound up returning it as some of the tone controls and adjustments weren't what I was after. No fault of the radio, just not what I was after.

Antique Automobile Radio, modern stereo for vintage cars

I wound up getting this one, link below.

20240203_210434.jpg


It just arrived and looks good also. I haven't installed it yet but will do so in the next week or so. I'm OK with it being very close to factory look as it will let me have the audio control I wanted. It's less than half the price of the first one which was a nice benefit.

Custom Audio

The business about the rear support strap mentioned in other posts is as simple as a piece of plumber's tape. Its purpose is just to support the weight at the back end of the radio so it's not wobbling around, secured only by the shaft hardware. One end goes to the bolt on the back of the radio, the other end can go wherever you can secure it under the dash.

Whatever upgrade you do, you'll certainly need to upgrade your dash speaker(s). I have a set of 4" that mount in a plate fitting into the factory 4x10" speaker spot. They also make a single 4x10 with dual voice coils that will take the power of a new unit. Some nice 6x9's in the rear shelf and you're set!

20240203_210434.jpg
 
Last edited:
Another option,

I have a Boss 616 I believe. Not the greatest by a long shot but I removed the faceplate from the receiver and a 6 inch ribbon wire sends the input/output to the faceplate. The faceplate is held on by 2 magnets on each side that were bolted through the old knob controls. The “guts” of the radio are behind Velcro’d down to the blower duct. This option was about 20-30 dollars. I’m sure this could work for other units as long as they don’t have CD players built into them.

This method is 100% reversible once I shop cheaping out and get a retro sound unit.
IMG_6206.jpeg
 
Along the lines of a faceplate hiding a more modern radio, I have access to the 3D scanner and scanned an original radio. Not good enough so working with some more experienced people to get a better version. And the idea of magnets to hold it to some metal left and right of the new head unit is a good idea. And will need a good way to anchor the new smaller radio set back a little. Completely doable. Finding a single DIN with short or no knobs will be key. While this one is busy looking it has all the good stuff plus a backup camera. Thats a feature I never really considered but it could be a really nice addition to these big cars.

Single Din Car Stereo Compatible With Car Player Android - Temu
 
Along the lines of a faceplate hiding a more modern radio, I have access to the 3D scanner and scanned an original radio. Not good enough so working with some more experienced people to get a better version. And the idea of magnets to hold it to some metal left and right of the new head unit is a good idea. And will need a good way to anchor the new smaller radio set back a little. Completely doable. Finding a single DIN with short or no knobs will be key. While this one is busy looking it has all the good stuff plus a backup camera. Thats a feature I never really considered but it could be a really nice addition to these big cars.

Single Din Car Stereo Compatible With Car Player Android - Temu
I’ve looked into those style single fins the reviews were just too hit or miss. If a more well known company made a CarPlay single din I’d get one.
 
Back
Top