Mr C's Christmas Imperial

Do you have the fsm yet?
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Not yet, it's on the list.
I actually have spares of the 2 rods shown in the pic so if it turns out you need one or both you would have first crack at them.
 
if you need parts I maybe able to help

I'm compiling a list, if you look in this thread you'll see the initial needs (Driver side front fender upper trim piece, drivers side skirt trim, pass side exterior door handle, dash ashtray cover... and the list goes on!)

That poor Imperial...makes me sad to see such a beautiful and rare car go.
 
I actually have spares of the 2 rods shown in the pic so if it turns out you need one or both you would have first crack at them.

I have the one attached to the auto pilot..it's the one next to the master in your pic that I need to look in to, but it's pouring rain again so it'll have to wait for a bit.
 
My initial plan with the convertible (I still can't believe I have a 68 Imperial convertible!) is to get it mechanically reliable for me to cruise around this summer.
It stopped raining yesterday and I was on leave, so I spent most of the day with the Imperial before the rain resumed. The L78-15 Good Year "Power Cushion" bias ply tires that came with the car started to let go up front, and I had a flat. Not wanting anyone in the community to complain about a derelict car, I had to get tires under it. I swapped a set of 205-75-R15 tires I had on a set of M Body rims onto the car to keep the neighbours appeased. Took 2 hours to break the beads and get the bias plys off, the rubber was so stiff!
While I was in there, I looked into the Budd discs as the pedal nearly goes to the floor before I get braking action but no brake light comes on. Previous owner replaced the master and booster and a few lines...haphazard approach IMO, but no leaks. Thankfully, the calipers are not leaking or sticking...I can spin to rotors by hand with the tires off.
The rotors look decent with no grooves(did not mic them yet) pads are just about toast (if they were of the riveted variety I would have grooves in the rotors...like 1/16 of an inch of material left- I think this may be why my pedal travel is extreme, but I haven't yanked the drums yet). Hoses are old but serviceable.
If my rotors are done, I am seriously looking into doing the 86-92Toyota Supra rotor conversion this summer since the cheapest rotors I've found were $189.00 each (I am glad they're available though). I found a place locally that will re-bond my pads for $85.00 as I have been unable to find D10 pads for less.

I have not owned a slab since the 90s (and that was a 68 Fury I) so I appreciate any advice on them. I heard that the Budd brake ball joints are another possibly tough item? Any 67- 68 Imperial expertise on tough items I should keep my eyes open for is appreciated.
 
Towing vehicle carries insurance period no matter what they say. Trailer has no operating controls, no operator, no lawyer anywhere will go into court and try to prove it was the trailers fault even in a mechanical, material failure. By lying to them you completely let them off the hook if you end up in court but they will not be standing next to you any how. Once you hook up to that trailer it is you liability on that unit.

Here in Michigan, my vehicle insurance covers the trailer only. Not the car, boat whatever i'm hauling on it. The boat or car need their own policy.
 
My initial plan with the convertible (I still can't believe I have a 68 Imperial convertible!) is to get it mechanically reliable for me to cruise around this summer.
It stopped raining yesterday and I was on leave, so I spent most of the day with the Imperial before the rain resumed. The L78-15 Good Year "Power Cushion" bias ply tires that came with the car started to let go up front, and I had a flat. Not wanting anyone in the community to complain about a derelict car, I had to get tires under it. I swapped a set of 205-75-R15 tires I had on a set of M Body rims onto the car to keep the neighbours appeased. Took 2 hours to break the beads and get the bias plys off, the rubber was so stiff!
While I was in there, I looked into the Budd discs as the pedal nearly goes to the floor before I get braking action but no brake light comes on. Previous owner replaced the master and booster and a few lines...haphazard approach IMO, but no leaks. Thankfully, the calipers are not leaking or sticking...I can spin to rotors by hand with the tires off.
The rotors look decent with no grooves(did not mic them yet) pads are just about toast (if they were of the riveted variety I would have grooves in the rotors...like 1/16 of an inch of material left- I think this may be why my pedal travel is extreme, but I haven't yanked the drums yet). Hoses are old but serviceable.
If my rotors are done, I am seriously looking into doing the 86-92Toyota Supra rotor conversion this summer since the cheapest rotors I've found were $189.00 each (I am glad they're available though). I found a place locally that will re-bond my pads for $85.00 as I have been unable to find D10 pads for less.

I have not owned a slab since the 90s (and that was a 68 Fury I) so I appreciate any advice on them. I heard that the Budd brake ball joints are another possibly tough item? Any 67- 68 Imperial expertise on tough items I should keep my eyes open for is appreciated.
All ball joints and control arm bushings are available straight through Rare Parts. I'll be interested in the thickness of your rotors as I think mine are getting thin.
 
Here in Michigan, my vehicle insurance covers the trailer only. Not the car, boat whatever i'm hauling on it. The boat or car need their own policy.
No I'm talking about the trailer hitting another vehicle or property, cargo on the trailer needs to be covered by something else.
 
Say what?
Tell us more. Never heard that one.
The 86-92 Supra rotors are dimensionally the same (except for hat height and hub centre hole) as the Budd rotor. To do the conversion the Imperial hub needs to be machined to make up the difference of the hat height and narrower so the Supra rotor will slide on (or the Supra rotor could be machined to a larger hole).

This swap is documented on the Online Imperial site. Has to be one of the greatest brake mods since the 73 brake swap. I thought this community knew.

Mike Pittinaro's Supra Rotor Conversion for (Chrysler) Imperial Budd Brakes

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It seems to me that for as much as we drive these cars even at 5K miles a year it makes more sense to just do the rebuild on the original system and never worry about it again.
 
It seems to me that for as much as we drive these cars even at 5K miles a year it makes more sense to just do the rebuild on the original system and never worry about it again.

Depends on how much it will cost me to machine the hubs. If it's cheaper than the re-popped rotors that are available (for how long?) I will do the conversion and be set forever. Only $55.00 for Supra rotors.
 
Went to Wildcat with a friend of mine that has a Charger...was not expecting to find Imperial parts, but was pleasantly surprised that he had a 68 with some items I needed (primarily trunk lid). My Imperial is really solid except for the trunk lid that was totally gone on the lip and corners.
Wildcat may not return calls well, but they had a surprising number of C bodies. Very pleased.

I swapped my rust free trunk lid and some pics of how bad the original one was! The paint on the trunk is really bad, but it's rust free!

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Out of pure curiosity, what did you have to pay for it?
 
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