MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Yes, I had been told that with the CHP car that they used the Hemi mufflers but wasn't sure if it was a special for CHP, looked it up in an old AP muffler catalog and yup, standard on the HP440 Polara.
Alan
MrMopar goes Topless
- Thread starter MrMoparCHP
- Start date
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Got a fair amount done today, started off with removing the left exhaust manifold so I could address the stripped stud. More than anything the biggest issue with taking the manifold off was getting it out after removing the nuts. Somewhere back in time the studs were replaced and they are about 1/2" longer, causing the manifold to jam between the column and the studs.
With the manifold clear I was able to get at the stripped stud. I needed to cut down a drill to get in the tight space. The repair went quick with no issues.
Wanting to let the Loctite set I moved onto the exhaust, using the rotten exhaust hangers for now I started with the tailpipe and moved forward. Once I had the pipe secured to the manifold I worked my way back tightening all the clamps and hangers.
I did get back and rotate the muffler.
Closed up the day getting al the parts in place on the left leaving the manifold off till the morning.
Alan
With the manifold clear I was able to get at the stripped stud. I needed to cut down a drill to get in the tight space. The repair went quick with no issues.
Wanting to let the Loctite set I moved onto the exhaust, using the rotten exhaust hangers for now I started with the tailpipe and moved forward. Once I had the pipe secured to the manifold I worked my way back tightening all the clamps and hangers.
I did get back and rotate the muffler.
Closed up the day getting al the parts in place on the left leaving the manifold off till the morning.
Alan
how do you like that bauer drill ?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I would have preferred a true 90* drill, it did the job.
As for the tool, not a high rpm motor.
Not much to say, I only opened the hole and just the one.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Five weeks later and I'm now at the point I thought I'd be when I got home with the car.
Finished up the exhaust repair and it is much better, no exhaust leaks everywhere. New fuel tank and sender installed so lets go for a drive, not so quick. By the time I finished up the work it was 5:00 and it just started raining and I have no wipers and there is no well liner.
The left pipe is hanging low because of the worn out hanger at the tip.
By the time I finished cleaning up the garage the rain had stopped so i was able to get out and take the car around the block.
Now that is the rumble I'm use to.
Next up, figure out why the driver door will not open from the outside, look into the window switches (intermittent), look into the top not operating....
Alan
Finished up the exhaust repair and it is much better, no exhaust leaks everywhere. New fuel tank and sender installed so lets go for a drive, not so quick. By the time I finished up the work it was 5:00 and it just started raining and I have no wipers and there is no well liner.
The left pipe is hanging low because of the worn out hanger at the tip.
By the time I finished cleaning up the garage the rain had stopped so i was able to get out and take the car around the block.
Now that is the rumble I'm use to.
Next up, figure out why the driver door will not open from the outside, look into the window switches (intermittent), look into the top not operating....
Alan
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
I see this as a marathon, not a sprint. Keep up the good work.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Last night I looked into the top. Started with removing the seat and arm rests, right away I could see there had been some leaking but not as bad as I was expecting. So I topped off the fluid and tried, nothing, more fluid, now I'm starting to see movement but I also see fluid dripping from the cylinder. In looking at it I could see that it was coming from the piston rod seal and maybe the fittings. I chose to leave it alone and start sourcing parts.
While at it I got a look at some more of the car and it looks clean. Floors are not perfect but I have seen worse, wheelhouses look good.
The arm rest could be better, although they are not great I feel it might be difficult to find good ones.
There was some questionable wiring for the courtesy lights
So far this is all withing expectations, I'm just waiting for the ball to drop.
Alan
While at it I got a look at some more of the car and it looks clean. Floors are not perfect but I have seen worse, wheelhouses look good.
The arm rest could be better, although they are not great I feel it might be difficult to find good ones.
There was some questionable wiring for the courtesy lights
So far this is all withing expectations, I'm just waiting for the ball to drop.
Alan
For those cracks in the armrests I patched a pair of gold ones with cracks about that big on both sides of the ashtray. Used black RTV but first tried my best to surround the cracks with tape. Once dry sanded it with 220 to get it flush. Only removed a bit of the surrounding texture. Sprayed black with SEM paint and done. Will it hold up to someone putter their weight on the armrests try to get out? not sure. I can do it again though. The rust came off the ash trays tops surprisingly easily. Used the back of an and exacto knife to get the crevices and most of the brown bits. Steel wool or sandpaper will dull it.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I also found this label on the floor loose, any idea where it originally was?
Alan
Alan
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Maybe from one off the Top cylinders? Didn’t they use Tranmission fluid in there? What do I know.. lol
More likely on the pump for the top, seems like I've seen that before.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Either the pump or the frame just below the pump, I know someone here recently posted a picture of this label but I can't find it or recall who.
Alan
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I think it was me . I started to post on the pump then I thought, noooo, its on the cross support.
I gotta look .
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The support is the most logical,
In this picture you can see where in might have been above the pump.
Alan
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I agree. I just flipped through my photos and I dont see it. Id swear I remember seeing it and me knocking it off...
Beautiful car!
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Funny, now that I look at this picture later I see where the label went, on the pump itself, top side at towards the filler.
I had my mind set on it being on the body of the car not the pump that I didn't see the residue from the label on the pump.
I just spotted it when I was removing the old hoses.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
After inspecting the top system and realizing it was not a major leak I chose to just power through it and put the top down. New cylinders and hoses were ordered.
Here are some pictures to get a better idea to the overall condition of the car and just how cool of a car this is.
The Spring Special trim (missing its DODGE lettering), also note the grill is polished with no paint.
Hard to see in this picture but the fender extension is banged up
Well not much to say here, the other side is just as bad, no buffing this out.
Both the visor brackets and the mirror mount are heavily pitted.
The wheel covers along with the 500 trim are polished, will need to be cleaned up and painted.
Throughout the car it is showing its age but overall it is a solid car.
Alan
Here are some pictures to get a better idea to the overall condition of the car and just how cool of a car this is.
The Spring Special trim (missing its DODGE lettering), also note the grill is polished with no paint.
Hard to see in this picture but the fender extension is banged up
Well not much to say here, the other side is just as bad, no buffing this out.
Both the visor brackets and the mirror mount are heavily pitted.
The wheel covers along with the 500 trim are polished, will need to be cleaned up and painted.
Throughout the car it is showing its age but overall it is a solid car.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I received the new top cylinders and hoses and before I started in on the swap I wanted to give the top mechanism a good look over while the top was down as I felt it might be easier to do the swap with the top up. As noted the pins are difficult to get to, I wanted to see if it was any better with the top up. While looking at it I saw a loose bolt and upon further inspection I could see that it was't factory and it had a woodworking tee nut on it.
I took note and planned to look at it some more later as the arm had tension on it.
The cotter pins were rusted so WD-40 was used and one came right out, the clevis pin took a few taps. The other side fought me, got the cotter pin half way and it stopped, ended up breaking it, good thing the break was recessed and I was able to tap the clevis out, a lot more than a few taps.
Clearly better to do this with the top up, the pins are readily accessible.
I needed to order some clevis pins and some hardware to replace the bad repair. The hole on the arm is bigger than the frame so I ordered a bushing to reduce it to the same size, that might have originally been a special shoulder bolt. May look into that more.
Alan
I took note and planned to look at it some more later as the arm had tension on it.
The cotter pins were rusted so WD-40 was used and one came right out, the clevis pin took a few taps. The other side fought me, got the cotter pin half way and it stopped, ended up breaking it, good thing the break was recessed and I was able to tap the clevis out, a lot more than a few taps.
Clearly better to do this with the top up, the pins are readily accessible.
I needed to order some clevis pins and some hardware to replace the bad repair. The hole on the arm is bigger than the frame so I ordered a bushing to reduce it to the same size, that might have originally been a special shoulder bolt. May look into that more.
Alan
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I can't imagine doing that with the top down. Up is the only position I start a cylinder replacement in.
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