70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Paint fuel pump.
MrMopar's 1969 California Highway Patrol restoration
- Thread starter MrMoparCHP
- Start date
Agree. Fuel pump was installed after paint.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
No, this was discussed with the builder and he reassured me that his checking with calipers serves the same purpose.
No, I will check with him on that.
The FelPro kit had a poly/rubber/vinyl one, not sure what it was but not rope and it was designed to use with the factory hardware.
Yes.
No, I will check on it.
$60 and two days was pretty easy. We discussed it.
The ports were masked, may still scrape the face clean.
I have never had a problem with this.
Even with all the challenges I have full faith in my builder, I asked a lot of questions along the way and the answers were always well put, good knowledge not just what he has red online or has been told.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I will post a picture of the pump that was pulled off, it was clearly painted on the engine.
I highly doubt the previous owner (other than the CHP) went to the effort to paint it in place.
I chose to only have the overspray that was needed to paint the block, and minimize the paint on the pump.
Personaly I wasn't going to paint it but we chose to install it at this point. I'm not of the overspray school, I do not typicaly put paint on the parts that didn't need to be on the engine and be torqued down. No distributor, ground wire, ground cable, exhaust manifolds, mypass hose (on small blocks). The designers didn't want it, engineers wanted all the ports closed, the parts were an easy way to do this.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Peal the plastic cover off most new cars and it looks the same. The plate is thicker than the belt ends and is doubbled up, the only weld is to keep the loop in place. the week link here is not the loop but the attachment on the pillar, it would pull off the pillar before the loop failed.
Alan
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Every original I have ever pulled was painted on engine.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Yes
Three directions and multiple times, a second work day was used up going over everything a second time.
Again, I’ll look into this, I’ll need a different torque wrench
Not sure that would make a difference if the heads were not done also, nothing is as true as it once was.
We all are.
Alan
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Yes, fuel pumps were installed before the engine was painted, as were the exhaust manifolds. Although the manifolds were not completely painted. overspray around the mateing surface would be correct.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
That burns off quick so I have never gone that route, I do however paint Indian head around each port to handle any pits/imperfections.
Again, I’ll look into this, I’ll need a different torque wrench
A cheapie beam style wrench with the pointer, tell tale and scale is all you need. Everybody nowadays has a fancy clicker torque wrench, but I worked with a lot of those wrenches and while the manufacturers claim they don't go out of calibration, they don't provide a way to check them. Beam wrenches on the other hand never go out and the worst that can happen to them is the pointer gets bent. That's what pliers were invented for - to bend the pointer back to zero if needed.
Originally Posted by kmccabe56 
I'm also a big fan of taking the exh manifolds in to a machine shop and having them take a skim pass on the joint faces to square them back up.
Not sure that would make a difference if the heads were not done also, nothing is as true as it once was.
Cylinder heads are pretty massive lumps of cast iron and while the mounting face can warp, it likely wouldn't be much, end to end. Manifolds on the other hand are relatively speaking more spindly and more susceptible to warping from the heat.
In an engine plant today, if the foundry happens to be next door to the engine machining equipment, it's not unheard of for blocks still warm from the foundry to start down the line to be machined. 100 years ago when the industry was starting out, the standard practise was to put blocks from the foundry outside in the weather for a minimum of two weeks to let the iron `season'. There are all sorts of built in stresses in the iron in a block and leaving the blocks outside to weather and get rusty was the accepted way to accomplish that.
A cheapie beam style wrench with the pointer, tell tale and scale is all you need. Everybody nowadays has a fancy clicker torque wrench, but I worked with a lot of those wrenches and while the manufacturers claim they don't go out of calibration, they don't provide a way to check them. Beam wrenches on the other hand never go out and the worst that can happen to them is the pointer gets bent. That's what pliers were invented for - to bend the pointer back to zero if needed.
I'm also a big fan of taking the exh manifolds in to a machine shop and having them take a skim pass on the joint faces to square them back up.
Not sure that would make a difference if the heads were not done also, nothing is as true as it once was.
Cylinder heads are pretty massive lumps of cast iron and while the mounting face can warp, it likely wouldn't be much, end to end. Manifolds on the other hand are relatively speaking more spindly and more susceptible to warping from the heat.
In an engine plant today, if the foundry happens to be next door to the engine machining equipment, it's not unheard of for blocks still warm from the foundry to start down the line to be machined. 100 years ago when the industry was starting out, the standard practise was to put blocks from the foundry outside in the weather for a minimum of two weeks to let the iron `season'. There are all sorts of built in stresses in the iron in a block and leaving the blocks outside to weather and get rusty was the accepted way to accomplish that.
I recently sent a bunch of parts to Phoenix Specialty Coatings for powder coating, all the stuff I had at the time that was satin black was sent.
I just got them back and I am very happy with the finish and quality.
http://phoenixspecialtycoatings.com/
This is the second job I had her do and I can't say enough about the customer service and workmanship.
Alan
Hey Alan, I'm SO SORRY it took me forever to see this! I've been swamped more than ever and don't get a lot of time to surf Joey's other sites. I had no idea you shared this until now. Anyway, thank you very much for the kind words and for showing off the pictures! It's always great to work with you and I look forward to the next time.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I am absolutely thrilled for you that you're bombed with work.
You earned it.
I'd send you my entire car to powder coat if I could.
You earned it.
I'd send you my entire car to powder coat if I could.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Thank you darlin! I love my job more than words can convey. Truth be told, there's been 15+ jobs here in line now at any given time for the last 6 years straight, and the last couple of years that number has been closer to 25. I could sure use a few clones.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The last couple days I have been trying to get the front suspension together. I had installed the steering gear, pitman arm and idler a couple weeks ago and had problems getting the upper ball joints in so I put it on hold till I could check on tricks to get them in. Back at it a little wiser, I proceeded and got both ball joints installed and moved on. Everything went like clockwork, piece by piece I continued. The struts proved to be a little difficult as I couldn’t get the bar to set so I could tighten the nuts. I finally ended up using a pair of jack stands to hold a socket on the other end of the bar. When I got to the rotors the place that turned them also packed the bearings, a glance inside I saw they also got grease inside so I was good to go. One rotor down and locked in place and then on to the next one, as I pulled the wrapping off it the inside bearing fell out and that was when I noticed there were no grease seals. To late to get seals I packed it up for the evening.
The next day I pick up a pair of seals and pulled the rotor and took care of the oversight. The calipers were installed and next were the hoses, something didn’t look right, looks like they will be way to tight. In checking it turns out the hoses I had were for drum brakes and about 1-1/2” too short. Wrapped the day up putting the hard lines back in.
I needed a new hold off valve but the replacements have a different bracket and I didn’t have it ready to install. I still need to get the sway bar refinished and installed, I did get a pair of NOS frame bushings for the sway bar and they were a little difficult to install.
Alan
The next day I pick up a pair of seals and pulled the rotor and took care of the oversight. The calipers were installed and next were the hoses, something didn’t look right, looks like they will be way to tight. In checking it turns out the hoses I had were for drum brakes and about 1-1/2” too short. Wrapped the day up putting the hard lines back in.
I needed a new hold off valve but the replacements have a different bracket and I didn’t have it ready to install. I still need to get the sway bar refinished and installed, I did get a pair of NOS frame bushings for the sway bar and they were a little difficult to install.
Alan
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
If all goes well I should have the transmission back within the week. My plan is to have the wheels on the car before it goes in. I’ll probably remove the core support (that is only finger tight awaiting the hood alignment) to aid in getting the engine and transmission in. So I still need to get the torsion bars and shocks installed. As it is I still have a pile of bolts to get painted and ready.
Alan
Alan
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I learn something new every day...
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