Is there a good video (maybe on you tube) showing how to replace front brake pads on an older Chrysler (1975 New Yorker)? Watched Chris Fix on you tube but his videos are on newer cars. I'm wondering if the older cars are significantly different. I'm planning on turning the rotors. Does anyone do that anymore? Paul
need good video on replacing brake pads
- Thread starter spstan
- Start date
The single-piston caliper front disc brakes go back to the 1972 model year. Anything from there forward should work for what you are wanting to do. I suspect that similar GM videos do exist and could give you some directions as to how to do things, as the 1972 C-body factory service manual might. Possibly even some of the Chrysler MasterTech video series at www.mymopar.com .
KEY thing is to have the rotors turned AND the factory non-directional swirl polish as the last thing done after the lathe action. The final cut by the lathe basically puts small grooves into the rotor surface, which the brake pad WILL follow like a phonograph needle on a vinyl record. Which can cause chattering of the pad in the caliper. The swirl polish breaks up those grooves so that break-in goes well.
IF the surface finish on the rotor is satiny, by comparison, it will be easy to over-hyeat the pads in even gradual stops! You'll smell the resins cooking out of the pads, too. Some brands of new pads claim their pads are "pre-cooked", but probably not to the same extent, I suspect.
UNTIL the resins are cooked out, do NOT make anything near to a panic stop, unless you just have to in normal driving. There are some on-line break-in procedures, but they are the same things that existed back into the drum brake days of the 1960s. It is very easy to ruin a good brake job by making full-bore panic stops at the completion of the brake job.
So, basically, gentle stops from lower speeds, then intensity and road speed can increase as the pads and rotors work better together. In one respect, if there are no brake pulsations when stopping, normally best to not cut the rotor, but just change the pads, by observation and my experiences.
As to brake pad choices, which some might not agree with, which is fine, I prefer a normal semi-metallic pad material over a ceramic or earlier pad material, for the best over-all performance. Might put some brake dust on the wheels, but so be it It washes off. Ceramics still "dust", just that their lighter tan dust is not as noticeable as the darker metallic pad dust. Look through the selections at Rock Auto to see what is out there for brands and pricing.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
KEY thing is to have the rotors turned AND the factory non-directional swirl polish as the last thing done after the lathe action. The final cut by the lathe basically puts small grooves into the rotor surface, which the brake pad WILL follow like a phonograph needle on a vinyl record. Which can cause chattering of the pad in the caliper. The swirl polish breaks up those grooves so that break-in goes well.
IF the surface finish on the rotor is satiny, by comparison, it will be easy to over-hyeat the pads in even gradual stops! You'll smell the resins cooking out of the pads, too. Some brands of new pads claim their pads are "pre-cooked", but probably not to the same extent, I suspect.
UNTIL the resins are cooked out, do NOT make anything near to a panic stop, unless you just have to in normal driving. There are some on-line break-in procedures, but they are the same things that existed back into the drum brake days of the 1960s. It is very easy to ruin a good brake job by making full-bore panic stops at the completion of the brake job.
So, basically, gentle stops from lower speeds, then intensity and road speed can increase as the pads and rotors work better together. In one respect, if there are no brake pulsations when stopping, normally best to not cut the rotor, but just change the pads, by observation and my experiences.
As to brake pad choices, which some might not agree with, which is fine, I prefer a normal semi-metallic pad material over a ceramic or earlier pad material, for the best over-all performance. Might put some brake dust on the wheels, but so be it It washes off. Ceramics still "dust", just that their lighter tan dust is not as noticeable as the darker metallic pad dust. Look through the selections at Rock Auto to see what is out there for brands and pricing.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
67_300_Convertible
Member
For what it's worth I've been a ChrisFix fan for years. His videos are great.
I like Chris's work too. He seems to go into extra detail in many things, as how well various cleaners worked by using a borescope to look inside each combustion chamber, for example.
CBODY67
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2011
- Messages
- 1,538
- Reaction score
- 1,799
If you want to treat your car to the real deal --- I have *** N.O.S. *** Asbestos *** Brake Pads *** for that application....
The softest , smooooooothest braking system known to mankind --- and they do not rip up Brake Rotors to smithereens......
P.M. me , as per forum rules, if interested..... Craig....
Using the Chineseum garbage of today is a serious mistake......
The softest , smooooooothest braking system known to mankind --- and they do not rip up Brake Rotors to smithereens......
P.M. me , as per forum rules, if interested..... Craig....
Using the Chineseum garbage of today is a serious mistake......
Justin Plant
Well-Known Member
Pole Barn Garage did a "revival" on a 75? Imperial a few episodes back. Check him out on Youtube.
Mobile; whats your price on the brake pads? Paul
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2011
- Messages
- 1,538
- Reaction score
- 1,799
See your P.M. —- Craig….
My 1 ton van, B series vans, D and W series Pick-ups, use the same pads and hardware. Look for videos for them also.
And Craig @mobileparts is The Man for this stuff.
And Craig @mobileparts is The Man for this stuff.
Similar threads
- Locked
