need no BS alignment shop in DFW area

[saylor]

.. . I was thinkin

when I put all this back together, where do I line it all up to? what I mean is like 'everyone' says put scribe marks and put the stuff back where it was... but this is all new stuff. shouldn't it go back to factory spec and not where it was?

like the FSM says measure ride height at the torsion bar adjusto blade and be within 1/8 in. of the other side, but at what height?

the upper arm bolts - do I push them all the way outboard to get max caster?

stuff like that. where do I set it to start with?

 

[commando1]

Your scribe marks are to get you back to at least where you were, for good or bad.
That will get you to alignment shop where they'll get it back to factor spec.

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[Husky]

.. . I was thinkin

when I put all this back together, where do I line it all up to? what I mean is like 'everyone' says put scribe marks and put the stuff back where it was... but this is all new stuff. shouldn't it go back to factory spec and not where it was?

like the FSM says measure ride height at the torsion bar adjusto blade and be within 1/8 in. of the other side, but at what height?

the upper arm bolts - do I push them all the way outboard to get max caster?

stuff like that. where do I set it to start with?

The FSM should have a table listing the suspension specs (camber, caster, ride height, etc). The ride height is not given as an abolute value, but as the difference between the LCA adjuster blade and the bottom of the lower ball joint with respect to ground. On a level surface, first measure the distance (height) between the LCA adjuster blade and ground. Then measure distance (height) between lower ball joint and ground. Take the second measurement away from the first and this is the ride height. It shoul dbe between 1 and 2" - again check your FSM or Google it. Yes, the difference in ride height between both sides should not be greater than 1/8".

 

[saylor]

ahh thanks husky that helps. there is no absolute value. its all relative to the angle of the dangle. got it.
in the back of section two suspension chapter in the fsm are those specs you mention..and i didnt see a ride height in there...now i know why.

my plan is to put it all back where i think it was and if i can steer it go straight to the alignment shop.

 

[saylor]

heres a pile of stuff just waitin on me to put back on the car. . .

 

[saylor]

is there a L and a R spindle on drum cars? or can a spindle go on either side?

i figured out what arms go where, but the spindles look the same...

haallp!

thanks!

- saylor

 

[saylor]

i txted jason,,, he says the spindle is the spindle. sweet!

 

[68plymouth383]

The only difference is when the wheel cylinders are still mounted with the drum brake parts. Then the spindle with the bleeder screw that faces toward the rear of the car is the orientation. Since yours were striped and have disc there not side specific.

 

[saylor]

thanks for the help and info my man. I got the old pitman arm off and the new one installed today after work. I now know you CANNOT use a bicycle 3 piece crank puller. it laughs at you while it bends into an unusable scrap of metal. I had to go to autozone and borrow a heavy duty pitman arm puller, and that worked easily. To remove the pitman arm spindle nut I tied the idler arm to the frame with a piece of chain and then used a 4ft bar on the end of a 2ft breaker bar with 1 5/16 socket or whatever it is and that popped the pitman arm spindle nut loose.

the only thing left to remove is 2 bump stops I haven't got loose yet, then its clear for all new stuff going back on the car.

 

[saylor]

minor setback today... came home from work and found the steering box had peed all over the driveway. damn shame. I wasn't planning on changing that. is it a big a pain in the *** as it looks? whos got the good power steering boxes?

side note - I had to cut out the bump stops with a dremel tool they were rusted together. it took a bit of effort, but finally broke after some careful application of force (bigger hammer).

 

[saylor]

. .. I guess the upside of changing the steering box is it will be all new steering from tip to tip,, cant be all bad

 

[saylor]

well the local ORLYS is supposed to have a reman cardone unit so im gonna get it today and start in on this wonderfulness

 

[68plymouth383]

Iam using the reman Cardone in my 68 Fury. We installed it in 2008. No problems. Its there master cylinders that I had problems with. Don't give them your old one till you pull the fluid return block. The new one doesn't have them.

well the local ORLYS is supposed to have a reman cardone unit so im gonna get it today and start in on this wonderfulness

 

[saylor]

allright then. with some pointers from Jason, we have RnR 'd the freaking steering box. holy crap its heavy.

 

[saylor]

I have hit a block trying to stab the steering column back down far enough to engage the spline on the steering box. the steering column plate that bolts to the interior firewall is like 1/2in off the firewall at the top of the plate and I cant see whats binding it from fitting flush. the bottom of the plate hits the firewall as needed.
so I hung the upper arms and called it a day.

 

[saylor]

o ya in case anyone is looking for a 68 power steering box:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...er+steering_02840_5144523_560&showStores=true

 

[saylor]

heres a good link about the steering coupler, a rebuild of one, and whatnot

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-houstons-steeringcoupler.html

 

[commando1]

You need as many arms of an octopus to install one of those damn things.

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[saylor]

anyone know the spec ft lbs for pitman arm to center link? im under the car now...

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would say around 50 then add more to get the cotter pin through.