need no BS alignment shop in DFW area

should the joint be tight on there or sloppy?
mush the rubber or let it be all round lookin?
it was wobbly sloppy so i kinda torked it on there...but still havent hit bottom.
 
image.jpgdid this post?

image.jpg
 
well the castle nut is past the hole and i didnt hit 100 ft lbs, so i stopped there. the centerlink does not wobble anymore.
im trying to stab a torsion bar into an lca now...what a *****.
 
should the torsion bar slide in or hammer in with the puller tool?

the book says 'slide'.. but this thing aint slidin...

I don't want to kill it.

is force OK here?

- saylor
 
if you have all the angles of the dangles just 100% in the correct place you may have to use a little love from the hammer to get it all back in. I would just use a short piece of 2x2 or something to try and keep from beating up the end of the t bars too much.
 
As long as t bar blade is all the way down toward adjuster bolt backed out of course love taps okay, beatings not so good
 
I had to beat the living hell out of it and I had everything slack :/

but I got a side in and now have everything hung all the way to the spindle. what a M F er. ive torqued everything to spec and moving to the other side to start over there.
 
When going by the book fails, go by what the castle nut and logic tells you.

BTW, at this point you should be swearing you will never do this again. It's standard operating procedure to swear that.
 
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commando you are right I will never do this again. probably. hopefully. never. im sunburned and my arms are tired as hell :)
 
allright . . . . so who has done the ol string line alignment?
im thinkin I got this. anyone ever give it a go ?

get the car level on all 4 corners.
get a couple of linoleum tiles with grease in between under the fronts for front wheel swivels
set ride height at torsion bars
set up some string lines off the rear wheels
go full + caster at UCA adjusto bolts and then reduce that until I hit 0* camber at the wheel . If already <= 0* camber call it done. if I have to go neg- caster to get to 0* camber, find the middle ground and call it done.
toe in.

drive it like its hot








- saylor
 
if I can get neg- camber and still have +caster i think id be lucky.
there is only a couple of points of adjustment,, I don't see the strut bar doing anything for me at the caster? I don't think it can pull the LCA forward at all can it ?
 
commando you are right I will never do this again. probably. hopefully. never. im sunburned and my arms are tired as hell :)
Saying "never again" and never again doing it are two completely different things...
Odds are, you will
 
status report: I did the eyeball alignment and then threw in the towel and took it to als brake & tire on garland rd. I didn't trust my caster. I had everything else dialed in pretty good. it drove well but I couldnt tell if I was eating tires so I wanted to see what the computer said...
the first thing the guy asked me was if there were any tricks to starting the car, so I knew I went to the right shop.
$75 later hopefully I wont be eating my tires. he said my frame was 'saggy' and it wouldn't get all the way where he wanted it on the passenger side. ended up with +1* caster and right at 0 camber, with a smidge of toe in. he said that's all I got in there.
it feels a little quicker in the steering from where I had it.
he also took one of the UCA lock washers and threw it out in the street - broken. these were new kit adjustable UCA bolts from pst. he ended up changing all of the washers out just to be sure about it.
 
oh - the front end is so firm now from all new gear that the rear end is OBVIOUSLY old,,, like before the whole car swayed around like you are in the ocean. now the front is solid as hell and the rear end is just blowing around back there... leaf springs are in my future.
 
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