Need some advise from all you pros

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flyinbrick68

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Well seeing how my project stalled for a few years i think I'm finally getting ready to resume it. I'm looking for advise from yall. I originally wanted a street strip 72 fury and now due to my budget i'm now leaning towards a weekend cruiser. How would a mild 451 run with a hydraulic racer brown 226@.050 108 lsa cam and mildly cleaned up 906 heads? I'm probably going to use stock exhaust manifolds unless i can come up with a deal for something better. I've got 2.76 gears i think that i'll probably be stuck with for the time being. I'm guessing that I'll have to change directions or sell my stall from dynamic unless they'll restall it for me it's probably overkill. So any suggestions on stall speed and size? I was planning on swapping in an 8 3/4 with 3.23s from a d100 but seems like that might not happen most likely i have to sell the truck to fund the fury.
 
flyinbrick68 said:
Well seeing how my project stalled for a few years i think I'm finally getting ready to resume it. I'm looking for advise from yall. I originally wanted a street strip 72 fury and now due to my budget i'm now leaning towards a weekend cruiser. How would a mild 451 run with a hydraulic racer brown 226@.050 108 lsa cam and mildly cleaned up 906 heads? I'm probably going to use stock exhaust manifolds unless i can come up with a deal for something better. I've got 2.76 gears i think that i'll probably be stuck with for the time being. I'm guessing that I'll have to change directions or sell my stall from dynamic unless they'll restall it for me it's probably overkill. So any suggestions on stall speed and size? I was planning on swapping in an 8 3/4 with 3.23s from a d100 but seems like that might not happen most likely i have to sell the truck to fund the fury.
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So swap the 2.76 rears from the car into the truck and sell it, best of both worlds. If the truck is a half ton with an automatic it will still be a driver for anything other than trailer towing. The 2.76 gears are not an option in the car with this camshaft. If your stock manifolds are the log type, they develop a lot of turbulence over 4000 rpms, that is going to kill the top end of your performance cam and negate any gain from cleaning up the heads. The 226 cam needs a 2200-2400 stall speed for the convertor and the spec sheet says it should run with an 8.8-9.2 comp ratio, so you choice of pistons also enters into the conversion. You need to feed this stroker and get the exhaust out of it, the stock intake should be tossed in favor of a performance after market unit with at least a 750cfm carb. You will also need dual exhaust with headers to get the most benefit out of the cam and stroker. I suspect that if you do anything less, the engine is going to be a big fuel eater with lousy performance. Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Davea Lux said:
So swap the 2.76 rears from the car into the truck and sell it, best of both worlds. If the truck is a half ton with an automatic it will still be a driver for anything other than trailer towing. The 2.76 gears are not an option in the car with this camshaft. If your stock manifolds are the log type, they develop a lot of turbulence over 4000 rpms, that is going to kill the top end of your performance cam and negate any gain from cleaning up the heads. The 226 cam needs a 2200-2400 stall speed for the convertor and the spec sheet says it should run with an 8.8-9.2 comp ratio, so you choice of pistons also enters into the conversion. You need to feed this stroker and get the exhaust out of it, the stock intake should be tossed in favor of a performance after market unit with at least a 750cfm carb. You will also need dual exhaust with headers to get the most benefit out of the cam and stroker. I suspect that if you do anything less, the engine is going to be a big fuel eater with lousy performance. Hope this helps.

Dave
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Yes sir thank you. With out milling the block the pistons should be .017 in the hole. They're forged icons and I've a set of p.e.p forged i beams and a 413 crank i need to get to fit. With 84cc heads i should be around 9.3:1 or so. Ill have to mock it up and see where it's at. I'd like to at least hit the 9.7:1 but that requires zero decking. Originally the cam was specd for 3.23 gears, headers, and dual exhaust with a 3600 9.5" dynamic stall and a 750 carb. I'd love a set of aluminum heads but that's probably an unrealistic thought at the moment.
 
stubs300 said:
I had to stop reading right here to ask a question.
How would it what???
Click to expand...
Sorry i works nights and probably should have proofread still haven't slept yet today. Just trying to avoid majorly mismatched parts and not wanting a doggy running car.
 
With the correct spec cam and a 451" running through a stock intake and stock HP exhaust manifolds you will have a lot of power. I am not a cam expert. I had a cam custom made for my 520" stroker that was running stock intake and exhaust manifolds and a moderate port job on the heads. You want a torque monster, not an engine with all the power way up in the RPM range for a big, heavy cruiser like a '72 Fury.

Solicit some advice on your cam selection. Once you figure some things out on the engine I would call Lenny @ Ultimate Converters and talk to him about what he recommends for your combination but first you need to make sure you have the correct cam for how you want the car to perform as well as know what rear gear you are going to use. 3.23 is a nice choice but if you like to drive long distances at 80 MPH you might want to stick with the 2.76 rear gear. You can always sell you Dynamic Torque Converter. Just one person's 2 cents.
 
You’re build a 440, for all intents and purposes so cam it accordingly. If you’ve got s true 9,5-ish to one static I think that RB would work but the manifolds will not help it. I’d go one step smaller. Something around 220 @ .050. I like Comp, but they’ll all do much the same behavior. A conservative cam bb will be fine with and hear. For s budget converter any factory high stall will work. Or something that brake stalls around 2200, and flashes to 24/2500 in that car.
 
I understand the $$$ issues and appreciate where you're at. I also know that Racer Brown is an old-line Chrysler hp cam vendor, from the old pre-Direct Connection days. But the thing that bothers me about that cam is the 108 degree lsa. About 112 would be better for idle smoothness and idle manifold vacuum levels. If they are too low in "N", the level will drop lower when you put it in gear. Which is where the converter stall speed can come in. Too tight and the load on the engine (at idle) will be greater. Which will require more throttle opening, which can then result in an off-idle hesitation. It might ALSO put the in-gear manifold vacuum very close to where the power portion of the carb will activate! Further complicating a good idle air/fuel adjustment.

Some cam manufacturers, at one time, had some cams which could be used with cast iron exhaust manifolds. To compensate, they put more duration and lift (than would normally be there) on the exhaust side of things. A little more help, so to speak.

DO make sure there is not some detail difference in the chunk in your car and that one in the pickup, which could derail things, bigtime.

Hass the trans been upgraded internally in prep for its new powerplant?

Check back a few weeks for the thread which a member uses a particular Lunati cam in his '68 383 4bbl car. Great results, it seems. I like the specs on that cam, too. I believe they term it "a modern 440/375 cam"? I strongly suggest you check it out.

Don't forget to get the rotating assy balanced.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Thanks i believe the d100s have the same axle perch dimensions one might be a bit narrower or wider but as far as i know the mounts are the same but id need to verify that. The lift is .503 on the cam and is a newer designed lobe but j cant remember the duration id have to call and ask its somewhere between 265 and 275. I've got alot to consider thank you all. It really helps to put it in perspective and really decide what a guy wants and expects out of a car!
 
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Starting basic mockup before it heads back to the machine shop after...whats the best way to check piston to deck height so a guy can get zero deck height? Straught edge and feeler gauges? Dial indicator?

15905457940678628813009064751758.jpg
 
I agree on the 108 cam question unless there's something magical there with the manifolds
Your 906's won't be 84cc unless they've been milled. Likely 88-90cc.
 
Ill have to buy a deck bridge and dig up a dial indicator unless i can get something rigged up. Thanks guys.
 
If you are going to stick with exhaust manifolds and you haven't already bought the camshaft, you should consider something with 112 to 114 degrees of lobe separation. Manifolds and a lot of valve overlap don't play well together.

I would call Dwayne Porter and see if he can spec you a hydraulic cam similar to the MP528 solid if you don't want to change your valvetrain.

Andy Finkbeiner wrote a cam comparison article for Popular Hot Rodding on a 440 based engine with exhaust manifolds.

Articles That Use Comp Cams® Products

Hard to beat that MP528. Good idle, lots of vacuum and it's right there with the "modern tech" cams that make a little more steam but at the expense of idle, bottom end torque and vacuum.

Kevin
 
flyinbrick68 said:
Starting basic mockup before it heads back to the machine shop after...whats the best way to check piston to deck height so a guy can get zero deck height? Straught edge and feeler gauges? Dial indicator?

View attachment 379226
Click to expand...
I'm not certain as to if I'm seeing that piston in your post correctly, and for a mock-up it wouldn't matter, but that piston looks like it has specific locations , as installed, with the bigger valve notch provision for an intake valve. I see it as being in the wrong cylinder hole! That one would reside in locations 3, 7, 2 and 6. But maybe I'm just seeing things!
 
It probably isnt oriented correctly valve wise i just put it in to get an idea of deck height to see how far down it would be in the hole.
 
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