My three 67 Polaras
Member
Here is the standard Monaco (not mine), equipped with a spear, rocker, and wheel well moldings (which I am pretty sure were all part of the Monaco package):
New 1967 Polara Convert
- Thread starter RJ Squirrell
- Start date
My three 67 Polaras
Member
Here is a Polara 500 equipped with no spear; (the front fender gills, wheelwell moldings, and rocker molding were all part of the 500 package). Instead of the Fratzog next to the Polara script on the C-pillar, there is a round emblem with "500" in the center of it. Not my car, shown for illustration purposes only.
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My three 67 Polaras
Member
And lastly a Monaco 500 equipped with no spear; (the 500 front fender numerals, wheelwell moldings, and rocker molding were all part of the 500 package). Not my car, shown for illustration purposes only.
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My three 67 Polaras
Member
One did not have to order any moldings at all. In which case, only the spear is present. The upper door frames look rather bare like this. Not my car, linked for illustration purposes only.
dodge 1967 polara 4door sedan - the history of cars - exotic cars - customs - hot rods - classic cars - vintage cars -
dodge 1967 polara 4door sedan - the history of cars - exotic cars - customs - hot rods - classic cars - vintage cars -
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My three 67 Polaras
Member
What is odd about this illustration in the service manual is that the 500 emblem is incorrect. Here it uses the 500 script from the Monaco front fenders, on the rear quarter panel. All of the production Polara 500 convertibles that I have seen use the round 500 emblem on the quarter panel.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Most serviced manual illustrations are of pre production cars so irregularities are not uncommon.
Also, I don't think the side spear was available on any Polara or Monaco 500 models in 67.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
It appears that RJ's car has a Monaco grille......
My three 67 Polaras
Member
Agreed, no spear on any 500 model. My wording was kind of iffy there. I fixed it up a bit with some better punctuation.
Where to start on the fuel sender? There are myths and urban legends abound. In my trials and tribulations I found a couple of things.
Truth - I am unaware of any aftermarket sending unit reading a full tank without some electrical intervention (Meter Match)
Fuel Sender calibration using Meter Match
Truth- If your original fuel sender may be able to be rebuilt it still may be accurate, but in my case the pickup tube was twisted when taking the old hose off misaligning everything and even though my sender was really clean I was getting erratic readings once re-installed.
Fuel Sender Rebuild
Myth - re-use your old locking ring it is better.
Actually my replacement tank from Van's had a thicker locking ring than my original. I found the leaks come from not keeping the locking ring and gasket perfectly centered as you are tightening / locking it. There is not much room for error. You will miss align this about 3 out of every 5 times you remove it. (especially if you are doing it under the car, just ask how I know those numbers)
Truth - not all rubber sending unit seals are created equal. Some are thinner than others
Truth - I am unaware of any aftermarket sending unit reading a full tank without some electrical intervention (Meter Match)
Fuel Sender calibration using Meter Match
Truth- If your original fuel sender may be able to be rebuilt it still may be accurate, but in my case the pickup tube was twisted when taking the old hose off misaligning everything and even though my sender was really clean I was getting erratic readings once re-installed.
Fuel Sender Rebuild
Myth - re-use your old locking ring it is better.
Actually my replacement tank from Van's had a thicker locking ring than my original. I found the leaks come from not keeping the locking ring and gasket perfectly centered as you are tightening / locking it. There is not much room for error. You will miss align this about 3 out of every 5 times you remove it. (especially if you are doing it under the car, just ask how I know those numbers)Truth - not all rubber sending unit seals are created equal. Some are thinner than others
I am thinking I saw a set of these on e-bay the other day. It was incorrectly listed for a '67 & '68 Polara rocker panel. Not '68 for sure.
Yes / No / Maybe?
NOS MoPar 1967 1968 Dodge Polara CHROME ROCKER PANEL MLDGS PAIR pns 2807666-7 | eBay
My three 67 Polaras
Member
Yes for 1967; but I don't have the 1968 parts manual.
Item 22 for Dodge Polara Convertible D-L (Base). This moulding interchanges with 2 dr and 4 dr.
Item 22 for Dodge Polara Convertible D-L (Base). This moulding interchanges with 2 dr and 4 dr.
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The ‘68 number for regular Polara start with 3004402-3. I am very familiar.
Restoration of aluminum lower sill moulding’68 Polara
67ragtop
Member
Nice ride bud im also looking for lower rear fender trim for mine hard to find
My three 67 Polaras
Member
Polara 500 Convertible... I am not sure if the dash number on the end changes to do the right side.
67ragtop
Member
Thanks for that info my three 67
RJ Squirrell
Member
Making some good progress on the convert, I took the dash apart, cleaned up all the electrical connections, breadboard and tested the gauges while on the bench. The original VR for the gauges still works and the new fuel sender was reading correctly so I put it all back together with new bulbs and it all works now. Replaced dimmer switch too. Nice having working gauges.
I let it sit 2 weeks while on vacation and when I got back I decided to investigate why the engine was still running so rough after going through ignition and fuel systems. Turned out to be bent pushrods. Makes sense now they most likely bent the first time the PO tried to start it with sticking valves, after sitting so long. Then continued to bend more after I ran it trying to loosen it up. Those early pushrods are only 1/4" swizzle sticks as most of you know. I tapped on all the valves and they are plenty loose now, that seafoam did its job well. New pushrods should be here today, rock auto has them for the early lifters.
Thanks for all the great info on lower trim molding, I will probably make my own out of aluminum if I cant find any.
Cant wait to hear her rumble now, will execute and report!
I let it sit 2 weeks while on vacation and when I got back I decided to investigate why the engine was still running so rough after going through ignition and fuel systems. Turned out to be bent pushrods. Makes sense now they most likely bent the first time the PO tried to start it with sticking valves, after sitting so long. Then continued to bend more after I ran it trying to loosen it up. Those early pushrods are only 1/4" swizzle sticks as most of you know. I tapped on all the valves and they are plenty loose now, that seafoam did its job well. New pushrods should be here today, rock auto has them for the early lifters.
Thanks for all the great info on lower trim molding, I will probably make my own out of aluminum if I cant find any.
Cant wait to hear her rumble now, will execute and report!
RGORHAM29
Active Member
sweet car!
Lincsmoparmike
New Member
I have 68 Monaco and it has that style of trim - wish it looked half as good as that - its mostly trashed and bent - its coming off and sadly will not be going back on - just hiding a load of rot holes as far as I can see.
RJ Squirrell
Member
Well I just cant wipe the grin off my face, new set of pushrods and she runs like a 50+ year old new car.
I was skeptical about the 89,500 original miles until I saw that it had never been apart before and the internals all look good, its a true survivor! My new ride! Gonna sell my Beemer now anybody want one O them?
I was skeptical about the 89,500 original miles until I saw that it had never been apart before and the internals all look good, its a true survivor! My new ride! Gonna sell my Beemer now anybody want one O them?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Maybe if they had six speeds...
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