New Member, 1967 Imperial
- Thread starter bajajoaquin
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70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I've had pwr and manual windows in some of my past Chrysler cars.....I like the manual windows better.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Told by whom?
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That's the one and as long as the electric motor is still working which you will hear running, this fix will work. Several of us have already done it at least once. I think those are the tires that I bought for mine but I'd have to double check them. Your unresponsive panel and interior lights are most certainly due to the rheostatic panel dimmer needing rebuilt. There's a guy that operates through ebay that will rebuild your panel dimmer for $75.00 and he did a great job for me, well worth it! Hopefully your turn signal switch doesn't get any worse as replacement parts aren't made directly for our cars. There's a canceling cam by She-Mar that can be made to work but the rest of the switch is a delicate piece for the '67s and when it stops working you lose a heck of a lot more then just your turn signals. The 68 switches were improved so if you ever run across somebody parting out a '68 tilt/tele Imp grab the column.
Cooper trendsetters, 235/75-15, $500 out the door, mounted balanced and old tires disposed of.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Maybe there is a supply line hiccup while they ship the molds over to India...
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I stopped being chicken and put together a punch list. 46 items. Ouch.
Some are quite large, like "rebuild front end," but others are small items that will be part of a tune up like, "coil, plugs, plug wires," etc.
I think I have to add burned exhaust valve or bad valve guide to the list. I was thinking back to yesterday afternoon, when it was idling while thoroughly warm, and there's a periodic "chuff" from the exhaust. If I get lucky and find it's a valve guide, I think I've read some instructions on how to replace it with the heads on the car.
Fingers crossed.
Some are quite large, like "rebuild front end," but others are small items that will be part of a tune up like, "coil, plugs, plug wires," etc.
I think I have to add burned exhaust valve or bad valve guide to the list. I was thinking back to yesterday afternoon, when it was idling while thoroughly warm, and there's a periodic "chuff" from the exhaust. If I get lucky and find it's a valve guide, I think I've read some instructions on how to replace it with the heads on the car.
Fingers crossed.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
toyo extensa a/s
wtf?
wtf?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I would worry about any tire company who's distribution network was through ebay drop shippers...
Make and model Stan
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Fits: From 1900 To 2014 [ ALL]
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bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I don't really have much of an update, but I did get an email that my calipers, rebuilt by Cardone through Rock Auto, shipped. I'm pretty excited, but nobody around here cares!
The only down side is the estimated delivery is Monday the 23rd. With work and holidays, that probably means they won't be installed before Xmas. I'm still holding out for New Year's, though.
The only down side is the estimated delivery is Monday the 23rd. With work and holidays, that probably means they won't be installed before Xmas. I'm still holding out for New Year's, though.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
Merry Christmas Eve, everyone.
(I just read my last post, and it sounded like I was complaining about you guys. I meant that my wife is really sick of me repeating to her when my parts ship.)
Some small progress today. I've had a sick wife and child, so not much time to get work done on the Imperial. I had planned on changing cap, rotor, coil, condenser, plugs, and wires, as well as the oil. I got.... none of that done.
I did, however, find out why the car smelled like gas. When I popped the hood before running down to the parts store, I saw gas dripping out of the front float bowl. I decided to drive my truck instead. Later, when I was under the hood, it wasn't leaking. I take this as marginal good news, as it indicates to me that it's a sticky float, and not leaky gaskets. But only marginal good news, since this carb is a manual choke, and I really don't want to put in much time messing with it if I'm going to be replacing it with an electric choke model. But we'll see.
After changing the coil, I noticed that my replacement condenser had the type of clip that wraps around the body. There was no place to mount that, as the old condenser had a little claw-foot attachment. When I went to put the wires back on the coil, I noticed that the fittings are designed for a threaded post with a notch out of it, and the new coil didn't fit. So, back on went the old parts.
Close inspection showed that the wires and distributor cap were pretty new, so I left those well enough alone. When I went to pull the points... well, I saw that there were no points! Looks like the previous owner converted it to Mopar electronic ignition!
I went to check the idle and timing, and found it was idling at about 850 rpm, and that I wasn't really prepared to do timing, since my marks were really hard to read, and I hadn't brushed up on this stuff (my last tune-up was about 15 years ago). So I messed with it a bit, dropped the idle down a little bit, and crawled under the car.
More good news. The car isn't anywhere near as rusty as I had feared. In fact, it looks down-right solid. There is some rot on the fenders and quarters, but the floor pan looks really good. The muffler needs help, though!
A question: Using a tape measure and eyeballing it, the ID of the inlet and outlet on the muffler seemed to be 2-1/8". My first investigations show mufflers in 2" and 2-1/4". Is the muffler measured from the OD of the inlet pipe, or is it a 2" muffler? I want to put on a cheap muffler and spend as little as possible so I don't waste too much money when I pay someone to put on dual exhaust in the future.
I forgot to take pictures with the air cleaner on, but you guys probably know what single-snorkel air cleaners look like .
Depending on how tomorrow goes, I'll try to take a picture of it in the Southern California sunshine and torment everyone in the snow.
Thanks for reading!
(I just read my last post, and it sounded like I was complaining about you guys. I meant that my wife is really sick of me repeating to her when my parts ship.)
Some small progress today. I've had a sick wife and child, so not much time to get work done on the Imperial. I had planned on changing cap, rotor, coil, condenser, plugs, and wires, as well as the oil. I got.... none of that done.
I did, however, find out why the car smelled like gas. When I popped the hood before running down to the parts store, I saw gas dripping out of the front float bowl. I decided to drive my truck instead. Later, when I was under the hood, it wasn't leaking. I take this as marginal good news, as it indicates to me that it's a sticky float, and not leaky gaskets. But only marginal good news, since this carb is a manual choke, and I really don't want to put in much time messing with it if I'm going to be replacing it with an electric choke model. But we'll see.
After changing the coil, I noticed that my replacement condenser had the type of clip that wraps around the body. There was no place to mount that, as the old condenser had a little claw-foot attachment. When I went to put the wires back on the coil, I noticed that the fittings are designed for a threaded post with a notch out of it, and the new coil didn't fit. So, back on went the old parts.
Close inspection showed that the wires and distributor cap were pretty new, so I left those well enough alone. When I went to pull the points... well, I saw that there were no points! Looks like the previous owner converted it to Mopar electronic ignition!
I went to check the idle and timing, and found it was idling at about 850 rpm, and that I wasn't really prepared to do timing, since my marks were really hard to read, and I hadn't brushed up on this stuff (my last tune-up was about 15 years ago). So I messed with it a bit, dropped the idle down a little bit, and crawled under the car.
More good news. The car isn't anywhere near as rusty as I had feared. In fact, it looks down-right solid. There is some rot on the fenders and quarters, but the floor pan looks really good. The muffler needs help, though!
A question: Using a tape measure and eyeballing it, the ID of the inlet and outlet on the muffler seemed to be 2-1/8". My first investigations show mufflers in 2" and 2-1/4". Is the muffler measured from the OD of the inlet pipe, or is it a 2" muffler? I want to put on a cheap muffler and spend as little as possible so I don't waste too much money when I pay someone to put on dual exhaust in the future.
I forgot to take pictures with the air cleaner on, but you guys probably know what single-snorkel air cleaners look like .
Depending on how tomorrow goes, I'll try to take a picture of it in the Southern California sunshine and torment everyone in the snow.
Thanks for reading!
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I'm jealous, keep us updated and Merry Christmas to you.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I misplaced my camera, so pictures of Christmas day are a bit delayed. But here is one, taken from my mom's house on the other side of the hill from me (I live on the Pacific side of Point Loma, so I don't see the skyline).
In car news (back on topic), rotors, pads, and calipers are on, but they're pulling to the right. Also, one front shock is on. I'm glad I didn't do this work myself. I really don't have a place to do work on projects that can't be wrapped up in the same day, and it sounds like it was a little more difficult than originally anticipated.
As mentioned in the threads on carbs and intakes, I'll be putting on an Eddy Performer 750 carb in the next week or two. I also have my replacement muffler in hand. The old one is held in place with clamps on either end, so I'm just going to swap in the new one, hoping to mess with as little as possible. Carb and muffler should address a lot of my fuel economy and driveability issues. Rear shocks will have to go on as well but that should be more straight-forward, and I will do that work myself.
Still to go:
Find small coolant leak
Find power steering box leak
Rebuild driver (at least) window clutches
New tires
...and lots of miscellaneous stuff.
In the next few days, I'll post up my spreadsheet with details of what I've spent. It may help someone in the future to know what things cost when they need to be fixed on these cars, especially the brakes.
In car news (back on topic), rotors, pads, and calipers are on, but they're pulling to the right. Also, one front shock is on. I'm glad I didn't do this work myself. I really don't have a place to do work on projects that can't be wrapped up in the same day, and it sounds like it was a little more difficult than originally anticipated.
As mentioned in the threads on carbs and intakes, I'll be putting on an Eddy Performer 750 carb in the next week or two. I also have my replacement muffler in hand. The old one is held in place with clamps on either end, so I'm just going to swap in the new one, hoping to mess with as little as possible. Carb and muffler should address a lot of my fuel economy and driveability issues. Rear shocks will have to go on as well but that should be more straight-forward, and I will do that work myself.
Still to go:
Find small coolant leak
Find power steering box leak
Rebuild driver (at least) window clutches
New tires
...and lots of miscellaneous stuff.
In the next few days, I'll post up my spreadsheet with details of what I've spent. It may help someone in the future to know what things cost when they need to be fixed on these cars, especially the brakes.
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bajajoaquin
Senior Member
Arrrgh. The issues keep coming faster than I can fix them. Brakes and shocks were much more expensive than I had anticipated. That pretty much blows my budget. And, as mentioned in the "Interior" section, my windows are no longer staying in the "up" position.
I also made a mistake in my shocks. I ordered a stiffer version than stock, in hopes of reducing the wallow. Unfortunately, it rides too firm now. Shocks are cheap, but a non-trivial undertaking to remove and replace, so I'll have to stick with them for a while.
I'm still going to keep moving ahead with the muffler and carb. Those seem to be the steps needed to make it drive properly. I don't want this to just be a money pit, but I feel like I'm in for a penny, in for a pound.
Several years ago, a friend bought a Honda RC45, which was a limited-production motorcycle of which they only imported enough to homologate them for racing. He fixed everything. Engine, carburation, suspension, electrical. He finally got fed up and sold it. The guy who bought it told him that he was going to ride it home to Texas from San Francisco (where my buddy lived). The seller was skeptical, because it had never run right for 2000 miles at a time.
It ran like a top, and never missed a beat. In retrospect, my friend realized he hadn't fixed anything twice. He had just gone through and made everything work.
Like I said, "Arrrgh!"
I also made a mistake in my shocks. I ordered a stiffer version than stock, in hopes of reducing the wallow. Unfortunately, it rides too firm now. Shocks are cheap, but a non-trivial undertaking to remove and replace, so I'll have to stick with them for a while.
I'm still going to keep moving ahead with the muffler and carb. Those seem to be the steps needed to make it drive properly. I don't want this to just be a money pit, but I feel like I'm in for a penny, in for a pound.
Several years ago, a friend bought a Honda RC45, which was a limited-production motorcycle of which they only imported enough to homologate them for racing. He fixed everything. Engine, carburation, suspension, electrical. He finally got fed up and sold it. The guy who bought it told him that he was going to ride it home to Texas from San Francisco (where my buddy lived). The seller was skeptical, because it had never run right for 2000 miles at a time.
It ran like a top, and never missed a beat. In retrospect, my friend realized he hadn't fixed anything twice. He had just gone through and made everything work.
Like I said, "Arrrgh!"
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That damn learning curve into the C-world.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
I'm totally the bipolar owner here. After writing that last night, I read the replies to my post about windows, and I drove it to work this morning.
Man, it drives nice. I mean, it still needs the muffler, carb, and exhaust manifold gaskets (in addition to new brake lines, and window work and... and ...) but my concerns about too-stiff shocks kinda went away. I really freaking like this car.
The brakes feel like they're dragging a bit, but I think that's the rubber lines deteriorating, and not releasing pressure properly. I'm going to replace all the soft lines in the very near future. I don't know why I didn't think to buy new ones when I was doing calipers, pads and shoes.
The wheel lines are available easily, but there's another soft line that goes from the master cylinder, around the front of the grille, and over to the right side of the car, and I'm having a little trouble locating it. I'd like to order all the lines at once, but if I need to come back to it, I will. Look for another question to pop-up in the "Brakes" section soon!
Man, it drives nice. I mean, it still needs the muffler, carb, and exhaust manifold gaskets (in addition to new brake lines, and window work and... and ...) but my concerns about too-stiff shocks kinda went away. I really freaking like this car.
The brakes feel like they're dragging a bit, but I think that's the rubber lines deteriorating, and not releasing pressure properly. I'm going to replace all the soft lines in the very near future. I don't know why I didn't think to buy new ones when I was doing calipers, pads and shoes.
The wheel lines are available easily, but there's another soft line that goes from the master cylinder, around the front of the grille, and over to the right side of the car, and I'm having a little trouble locating it. I'd like to order all the lines at once, but if I need to come back to it, I will. Look for another question to pop-up in the "Brakes" section soon!
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There's a good reason you're having trouble locating it....
you haven't gotten your FSM yet have you.
bajajoaquin
Senior Member
That would be a good guess, but incorrect. My service manual shows repairs on brakes, replacement, rebuilding, etc., but doesn't have a schematic with parts broken out. There's a detailed drawing for the parking brake, but not one for the service brakes. I bought it from Dave Graham Auto Literature as a digital copy, so maybe it's missing the schematics?
I found a parts diagram on line (MyMopar.com) but it was 140mb and I couldn't easily port that to work to have as a reference while I was talking to parts providers. It also indicated the same part number for the front part I needed as for a line going to the rear.
Talking to Harmon and Fine Lines, I think I've tracked down the pieces I need. Fine Lines only had a listing for a New Yorker, but they said they would refund my money if it's wrong. It's also a pre-bent metal line, not the "duraguard" or whatever the name is for the metal-wrapped rubber line that is original. Maybe that's why the part up front is listed the same in the original parts book: because it's a flexible line, and happens to be the same length as the one going aft. They also didn't have the hoses available. Harmon had the hoses but not the hard line.
I think I paid about double to buy the hoses from Harmon, but what the heck. I need to keep the specialists in business, right?
Anyway, we'll see.
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