Conversion Update
So I've been slowly chipping away at the 4 speed conversion and since the major work is done I'm posting an update. I'll start by saying that everything seems to be taking about three times longer than expected because it's not a straight-forward bolt-in conversion. Some of the major things I've had to do:
-Cut and reweld all the shift linkage because the overdrive trans came out of truck and the shifter is positioned significantly higher than for a B/C body.
-Since I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit, I had to adapt (cut and weld) the factory linkage rod from the pedals to the master cylinder in the kit. The bearing also requires an "air gap" to the clutch diaphragm of .150" and the kit included a spacer that was .700" thick and shims that added up to .300". I needed .525" so I had a local machine shop use a lathe to turn down the spacer to .525".
-The trans, linkage, and the clutch assembly are all installed now, but the kit was missing a 90 deg fitting between the master cylinder and the braided line going to the throwout bearing. The company has sent me the missing fitting.
-Finally, I made a bracket to mount the hydraulic reservoir.
-Next on the fun-meter was the brakes. My car has power disk brakes so I used an A body power disk assembly that bolted right to the pedals. I made new brake lines to the prop valve because the ones on the car were poorly made and pretty skanky.
-Once the brake booster was in place, I realized that the linkage was way too long and I had to modify it. Turns out that 5/8" taken out of the brake rod, takes 4" out of the brake pedal height. Now the clutch and brake pedal are at the same height.
-The brakes are done except for the brake light switch. I'll have to figure out the mount because the factory switch is different than what came with the pedal assy. The reverse lights have been rewired because the automatic switch is located on the column, versus transmission with the manual.
What's left to make it driveable? Bleed the brakes & hydraulic clutch, plus weld the trans hump into place.