New Member from Montana - '68 300

[UnendingFury]

Welcome! That's a really clean looking Chrysler fast top! I like the Magnum 500 wheels too, got them on my 68 Fury III

 

[MTMoparfan65]

It's been a few months -- and progress has been slow in the winter -- but I finally finished the 4 speed conversion on my '68 Chrysler 300 so I thought I'd post a few pics. I also replaced the stock heating system with one from Vintage Air, installed a tachometer, and put in new carpet. Because it's snowy and muddy, I haven't driven the car yet, but have run it several times on jack stands. So far so good! Next is a Suregrip, but first I want to see whether I like the current 3.23s or prefer to use a 3.55 set that I have.

 

[300rag]

Looks good.

 

[Fratzog]

Thanks for the update. Always enjoyable watching and learning from someone who knows what he's doing.

 

[commando1]

Welcome to the 67/68 misaligned glove box door club. I think they intentionally designed them that way.

Interior looks great.

 

[300rag]

Welcome to the 67/68 misaligned glove box door club. I think they intentionally designed them that way.

Interior looks great.

Much like the 65/66 ashtray door alignment.

 

[detmatt]

Hurry up spring!

Dammit I do miss all the old smilies...

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

I'm late to the party on your thread MTMoparfan65 so let me add my ATTABOY. Outstanding work! I have a rust free '83 GT Scamp Pickup that came from a bone yard in your town. Neal Freman and the boyz in Whitehall helped me get it back to Michigan 'bout 10 yearz ago. I used it to haul my 440+ home from Muscle Motors for the Batwagon after Eric and that crew tweaked it. You'll be happy with their skill in that craft if you're not already. BTW, The '68 300 iz my favorite Slab. Just had to jump in, Jer

 

[67-Fury]

Dam Nice my Friend.

 

[BigFury]

Nice installation.. looks like a factory set up

 

[68Bigred]

Wow looks great! If you decide to unload the 3.23 let me know! This year I need to get those tall gears out of mine.

 

[MTMoparfan65]

Welcome to the 67/68 misaligned glove box door club. I think they intentionally designed them that way.

Interior looks great.

Yes, I even took the glove box door off to make it easier to install the new HVAC system and I also replaced the glove box liner with a new one. There isn't much adjustment possible on the door so I guess I'll live with it.

 

[MTMoparfan65]

I'm late to the party on your thread MTMoparfan65 so let me add my ATTABOY. Outstanding work! I have a rust free '83 GT Scamp Pickup that came from a bone yard in your town. Neal Freman and the boyz in Whitehall helped me get it back to Michigan 'bout 10 yearz ago. I used it to haul my 440+ home from Muscle Motors for the Batwagon after Eric and that crew tweaked it. You'll be happy with their skill in that craft if you're not already. BTW, The '68 300 iz my favorite Slab. Just had to jump in, Jer

A couple of comments: I think this was covered in another string, but Neal Freman is out of business. Both the '69 Chrysler 300 and '69 Marauder I had ended up in his yard. What really sucks is that he scoured the state (Montana) and grabbed up all the good A & B body MOPAR parts from the local yards so it's all gone now that he crushed everything in his yard.

*** BREAK ***
I've dealt with Eric at Muscle Motors quite a bit over the last year. My next project is to install a 528 Hemi into a '67 Satellite, and they built the motor. It dyno'd at 625HP/665TQ. Just this week I commissioned a Dana 60 to be build for it using a cut down Ford truck unit. On a related note, if anyone needs differential or brake parts, I highly recommend "Doctor Diff" for those items. Reasonable prices and very quick shipping.

 

[Zymurgy]

Wow you have all sorts of cool projects thanks for the update. Sweet job on the 4 speed. The weather has got to be killing you.

 

[rags]

did this conversion myself many years ago on my '69. OD 4th makes for nice cruising with a 3.50 gear set. comes out of the hole pretty well also. only disappointment is the ratios in mine go 3:1, 1.5:1, 1:1, .5:1. every shift cuts engine rpm in half. if i had to do it again i would have gone with a 5 speed. i did the floor for that external shifter and would have to redo it all for a five gear. for a transmission mount i just reversed the old 727 mount. with the brake booster i went with a hydro-booster. eliminates all the vacuum issues associated with a large cam. booster and master cylinder clear the hp manifold nicely. bit jealous of the hemi. nice stuff. SG

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

A couple of comments: I think this was covered in another string, but Neal Freman is out of business. Both the '69 Chrysler 300 and '69 Marauder I had ended up in his yard. What really sucks is that he scoured the state (Montana) and grabbed up all the good A & B body MOPAR parts from the local yards so it's all gone now that he crushed everything in his yard.

*** BREAK ***
I've dealt with Eric at Muscle Motors quite a bit over the last year. My next project is to install a 528 Hemi into a '67 Satellite, and they built the motor. It dyno'd at 625HP/665TQ. Just this week I commissioned a Dana 60 to be build for it using a cut down Ford truck unit. On a related note, if anyone needs differential or brake parts, I highly recommend "Doctor Diff" for those items. Reasonable prices and very quick shipping.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Yes Neal iz not in the game anymore after crushing in January of '14, but I'd still contact him anyway for A+B+C+E body hard partz. He did crush but he'z ah long way from stupid. Personally I never faulted Neal for hustling partz to make a living. I traded partz back and forth with him for over 30 yearz and I don't feel he ever hurt or hosed me. Next time you talk to Eric tell him Jerry Olson will be waiting for him with cold St Pauli at Carlisle come July even if I have to hunt him down at the Manufactures Mid-Way and walk him out behind the freight box. Again, Dam well done of the 4 spd. '68, Jer

 

[Walter67]

Wow! Now that's a. Deal!

 

[The Ligons]

Conversion Update

So I've been slowly chipping away at the 4 speed conversion and since the major work is done I'm posting an update. I'll start by saying that everything seems to be taking about three times longer than expected because it's not a straight-forward bolt-in conversion. Some of the major things I've had to do:

-Cut and reweld all the shift linkage because the overdrive trans came out of truck and the shifter is positioned significantly higher than for a B/C body.
-Since I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit, I had to adapt (cut and weld) the factory linkage rod from the pedals to the master cylinder in the kit. The bearing also requires an "air gap" to the clutch diaphragm of .150" and the kit included a spacer that was .700" thick and shims that added up to .300". I needed .525" so I had a local machine shop use a lathe to turn down the spacer to .525".
-The trans, linkage, and the clutch assembly are all installed now, but the kit was missing a 90 deg fitting between the master cylinder and the braided line going to the throwout bearing. The company has sent me the missing fitting.
-Finally, I made a bracket to mount the hydraulic reservoir.

-Next on the fun-meter was the brakes. My car has power disk brakes so I used an A body power disk assembly that bolted right to the pedals. I made new brake lines to the prop valve because the ones on the car were poorly made and pretty skanky.
-Once the brake booster was in place, I realized that the linkage was way too long and I had to modify it. Turns out that 5/8" taken out of the brake rod, takes 4" out of the brake pedal height. Now the clutch and brake pedal are at the same height.
-The brakes are done except for the brake light switch. I'll have to figure out the mount because the factory switch is different than what came with the pedal assy. The reverse lights have been rewired because the automatic switch is located on the column, versus transmission with the manual.

What's left to make it driveable? Bleed the brakes & hydraulic clutch, plus weld the trans hump into place.View attachment 64750View attachment 64751View attachment 64752

View attachment 64750

View attachment 64751

View attachment 64752

 

[The Ligons]

Conversion Update

So I've been slowly chipping away at the 4 speed conversion and since the major work is done I'm posting an update. I'll start by saying that everything seems to be taking about three times longer than expected because it's not a straight-forward bolt-in conversion. Some of the major things I've had to do:

-Cut and reweld all the shift linkage because the overdrive trans came out of truck and the shifter is positioned significantly higher than for a B/C body.
-Since I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit, I had to adapt (cut and weld) the factory linkage rod from the pedals to the master cylinder in the kit. The bearing also requires an "air gap" to the clutch diaphragm of .150" and the kit included a spacer that was .700" thick and shims that added up to .300". I needed .525" so I had a local machine shop use a lathe to turn down the spacer to .525".
-The trans, linkage, and the clutch assembly are all installed now, but the kit was missing a 90 deg fitting between the master cylinder and the braided line going to the throwout bearing. The company has sent me the missing fitting.
-Finally, I made a bracket to mount the hydraulic reservoir.

-Next on the fun-meter was the brakes. My car has power disk brakes so I used an A body power disk assembly that bolted right to the pedals. I made new brake lines to the prop valve because the ones on the car were poorly made and pretty skanky.
-Once the brake booster was in place, I realized that the linkage was way too long and I had to modify it. Turns out that 5/8" taken out of the brake rod, takes 4" out of the brake pedal height. Now the clutch and brake pedal are at the same height.
-The brakes are done except for the brake light switch. I'll have to figure out the mount because the factory switch is different than what came with the pedal assy. The reverse lights have been rewired because the automatic switch is located on the column, versus transmission with the manual.

What's left to make it driveable? Bleed the brakes & hydraulic clutch, plus weld the trans hump into place.View attachment 64750View attachment 64751View attachment 64752

View attachment 64750

View attachment 64751

View attachment 64752

Your work looks good.
I want to do a '70, any tips on what will fit ; pedals links and such?