New(old) heads for engine rebuild?

rjstick

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Hi all,

I'm getting ready to pull the original 318 2barrel engine from my '68 Fury III and plan to rebuild it. We're guessing at least 143K miles on it.

So I'm studying and looking for likely needed items to rebuild and to upgrade where possible without going the full 440 route.

I've come across a set of reconditioned heads on ebay that look good - but I'm such a novice here I don't know if there are better options including rebuilding the exisiting ones. I also have no idea if the price is reasonable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/19087907971...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_506wt_1330

All thoughts welcome.

Thanks,

Ray
 
Current bid $635. description from eBay ad:

Mopar 318ci Heads. High swirl, and velocity ports!! 4323302 casting heads, will fit 318-340-360ci. engines

Mopar 318ci Heads. High swirl, and velocity ports!! 4323302 casting heads, will fit 318-340-360ci. engines


Heads were hot tanked, and magnafluxed.


Large 1.88nt. valves and 1.60exh. valves.


Mopar performance valve springs, 90# seat pressure and 260# @.500 lift, .520max valve lift on the springs.


All new exhaust bronze guides, intake guides checked good, all new valve seals.


Heads then received a full competition Wetflow valve job, with Mondello technology cutters, All New valves installed, Bowl area under the valves was relieved for the bigger valves, with a 75 degree cutter for great flow. Then heads were milled .005 to clean up deck surfaces. Heads are 55cc chambers.


Heads are ready for bolt on, all treads are in great shape no cracks or helicoils. A very nice clean set of "302" heads that would be a huge upgrade for your 318 engine, or use on your 360 to boost your compression and increase your airflow! These heads should make a easy 325hp with on a street engine and close to 400hp on a 360ci! Shipping is for both heads, thanks for looking!

image.jpg
 
What compression are you shooting for?

A 73 318 is rated at 8.6:1. Your 68 318 is rated at 9.2:1.
Those heads and some cheater gaskets get a 73 to 9.1:1. That is half a point. Assuming the same increase on your engine it will jump to 9.7:1.

It would be best to use a compression calculator to see what ballpark these will put you in.
 
RJ, throwing a lot of money into the heads of a 318 lugging around a C-body is really bad economics.
Sending your stock heads out for a good valve job is far wiser and cheaper.
You will never feel the difference in the real world over rebuilding your stock heads and spending way more for hi-po heads.
 
FWIW, my numbers above are talking stock (62cc) 302 Swirl heads. The heads in that ad have been modified with an even smaller combustion chamber. (Meaning higher compression)

My small amount of engine knowledge is saying you are going to have way high compression with these.
 
RJ, throwing a lot of money into the heads of a 318 lugging around a C-body is really bad economics.
Sending your stock heads out for a good valve job is far wiser and cheaper.
You will never feel the difference in the real world over rebuilding your stock heads and spending way more for hi-po heads.

That is exactly what I was wondering. Would the economics make sense - I have no idea how much a good valve job costs vs. purchasing seemingly upgraded heads.

Thanks
 
FWIW, my numbers above are talking stock (62cc) 302 Swirl heads. The heads in that ad have been modified with an even smaller combustion chamber. (Meaning higher compression)

My small amount of engine knowledge is saying you are going to have way high compression with these.

Sadly I am not shooting for any specific compression number - perhaps I should be but my knowledge is fairly limited here. I just want the car and engine to perform better than it does, & to bring things back into a nice, safe, and fun driving package.
 
I get the feeling these heads are a bit too upgraded for your build. As for a valve job, I'd reckon about $200-$700 depending on what all they are doing.
 
I have no idea how much a good valve job costs vs. purchasing seemingly upgraded heads.

Thanks
It will always be cheaper when you personally can hand them over to your local machinist.
Plus you have a guy you can look in the eye.....

j8mue0.jpg
 
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FWIW I would have to agree with Stan face to face/ even better is someone who speaks mopar. The heads you have are not horrible like mid-70 thru early 80s. The 302s are good if you get a set cheap I would not spend a lot on them better to go with 308s but not on 318. I would redo yours and if you want to spend a bit add 360 valves to them as long as they cut the bowl , of course this is all useless if staying with 2 bbl and exhaust manifolds then just redo them stock.
 
Seeing what stan posted on the seller that would be enough to scare me away unless this guy is down the road from you shipping will kill you. Not a big fan of ebay to many bad stories seems like people fishing for big numbers on there junk without having to listen to people telling them they have junk.
 
FWIW I would have to agree with Stan face to face/ even better is someone who speaks mopar. The heads you have are not horrible like mid-70 thru early 80s. The 302s are good if you get a set cheap I would not spend a lot on them better to go with 308s but not on 318. I would redo yours and if you want to spend a bit add 360 valves to them as long as they cut the bowl , of course this is all useless if staying with 2 bbl and exhaust manifolds then just redo them stock.

Thanks to all for the advice. Yes Stan helped me to see the light on that one for sure. I do plan to upgrade to 4 bbl - I've already found an intake and carb setup I'm hoping will help wake up the engine when we rebuild it. I would also like to go from single to dual exhaust but did not plan to change the exhaust manifolds if they are ok. I did not think the stock manifolds would be that bad?
 
I'm a huge advocate of cost/benefit ratio analysis on engine improvements.
I see $10,000.00 engines at car shows that maybe get 1,000 miles a year on them. WTF??????????
Then they wonder why they can't get their delusional asking price after owning it for five years.
Chalk up the $5k loss as the cost of your penis envy and be done with it.
 
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Putting it kindly would be saying that a 318 doesn't flow well. Repeating the best description I've heard would be that "a 318 breathes like an asthmatic cat."

For the bit that you've described, the stock manifolds on dual pipes should be fine. If you want a little better exhaust flow on the cheap I've heard that 340 exhaust manifolds flow a good bit better, not to mention they cost half or less of what [unnecessary & possibly problematic] headers would cost.
 
For the bit that you've described, the stock manifolds on dual pipes should be fine. If you want a little better exhaust flow on the cheap I've heard that 340 exhaust manifolds flow a good bit better, not to mention they cost half or less of what [unnecessary & possibly problematic] headers would cost.

Interesting. So do 340 manifolds simply bolt onto all 318 LA engines?
 
I'm a huge advocate of cost/benefit ratio analysis on engine improvements.
I see $10,000.00 engines at car shows that maybe get 1,000 miles a year on them. WTF??????????
Then they wonder why they can't get their delusional asking price after owning it for five years.
Chalk up the $5k loss as the cost of your penis envy and be done with it.

Funny. I'd like to say that I always do the "rational" thing - but I'd be lying. Sometimes I just like the looks or appreciate the engineering. Of course eyes wide open with respect to resell. Sort of like putting in a pool at your house.
 
I've been told they do. I do not remember if they dump in the exact same spot as the 318 ones. FWIW, you aren't going to see a massive increase when going from 318 manifolds on duals to 340 manifolds on duals. The duals will make the difference; the manifolds less so.
 
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