New Repro Bendix Dual Diaphragm Brake Boosters Used on Some C Bodies & Other Models Circa 1970

[PPR]

Hi,

I think my 1971 LeBaron brake booster failed two weeks ago. Brake pedal went really hard to push and vacuum is leaking when pedal is pressed. Leaking voice can be heard clearly. This makes also engine running bad when idling, if brake pedal is pressed, but thats not really problem for me. Vacuum powered parking brake automatic release mechanism works fine.

I'm interested to hear if someone has bought and installed "Pirate Jack" (china repro) brake booster.
Mopar 8" Dual Power Brake Booster Kit for Fullsize Chrystler Cars, Dodge Trucks | eBay

Later I might also send my original brake booster unit for rebuid. But now I want to enjoy short summer and I need a booster that Works.

We have mandatory safety inspections every year at Finland. My "Imppu's" inspection is between August 8th and September 2nd. I need working brake booster at least then or I can't drive Imppu before fixing it.

I think that my brake booster is Bendix dual diaphragm booster. How can I be sure?

 

[Davea Lux]

1.) The booster you cited will not fit a C-Body
2.) You do have a Bendix Dual Diaphragm Booster
3.) Getting it rebuilt is your best option, as far as I know the ChiComs do not make a replacement booster that is any where near correct for a C-Body.

www.boosterdeweyexchange.com does an excellent job of rebuilding boosters to OEM standards and will usually get in done in about two weeks.

Dave

 

[jwick001]

I had luck with a later model dual - 1975 and up. Part 54-73309 and available and affordable. No rebuild, just buy and install. Bolted up no problem to my originally 318 69 fury. Rod was perfect length for my originally power drum pedals Only had to widen the center hole in the mounting plate that is sandwiched by booster and firewall. Needs more diameter for the rubber boot. Just in case people are looking for options.

But I do think there might be shifter linkage clearance issues if you have column shift.

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and...r/duralast-reman-brake-power-booster/102619_0

Do you have any idea if this would work on a 66 Fury Sport?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

If he claims it works on a 69 Fury, then it should work on your 66. If you already have power drums, keep the plate that is against the firewall - it may need to be modified for the mounting bolt holes.

Alternatively, if you manage to score the booster and master from that 73 you're asking about, get the booster backing plate from it too.

 

[mr. fix it]

Here’s a new twist on things for options.
I bought this from National Moparts last fall and now have it installed
It’s specifically sold for a B-E body
Not stock looking by any means but I wasn’t concerned about that.

when compared to the drum booster I had it gives about an additional 20% power increase or I should say that there’s about a 20% decrease in the effort required for brake application and a smoother travel during braking.
I have never driven a c body with the factory Bendix dual booster so I can’t compare this for comment here.

I did have to shorten the pushrod by 1/2”~5/8” connecting the brake pedal which was a bit fiddly in and off a number of times to get it to the required length.
Cost was about $325cdn from Nigel and I did require stepping back to a manual firewall plate or I think I could have redrilled the power brake plate if I really needed to.
I also had to make new lines since the M/C is now approximately 3” forward from the stock location.
I can lock the wheels up now which I had a hard time doing running the single drum booster.

I’m sure it’s from Chinatown but as long as it works and gets the job done I’m good to go and stop.

 

[jwick001]

Here’s a new twist on things for options.
I bought this from National Moparts last fall and now have it installed
It’s specifically sold for a B-E body
Not stock looking by any means but I wasn’t concerned about that.

when compared to the drum booster I had it gives about an additional 20% power increase or I should say that there’s about a 20% decrease in the effort required for brake application and a smoother travel during braking.
I have never driven a c body with the factory Bendix dual booster so I can’t compare this for comment here.

I did have to shorten the pushrod by 1/2”~5/8” connecting the brake pedal which was a bit fiddly in and off a number of times to get it to the required length.
Cost was about $325cdn from Nigel and I did require stepping back to a manual firewall plate or I think I could have redrilled the power brake plate if I really needed to.
I also had to make new lines since the M/C is now approximately 3” forward from the stock location.
I can lock the wheels up now which I had a hard time doing running the single drum booster.

I’m sure it’s from Chinatown but as long as it works and gets the job done I’m good to go and stop.


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What is the part number that you purchased?

 

[mr. fix it]

What is the part number that you purchased?

Here you are

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

I am in a pinch here with my 66 Fury, 383, front disc brakes, rear drum brakes with a proportioning valve. I don't know if to keep the Midland single diaphragm power brake (pb) booster and dual-reservoir master cylinder (mc) or upgrade to a dual-diaphragm power brake booster? The mc leaks at the cap but I would like to remain with a dual-reservoir mc. I've only owned car for 1 month so barely getting to know it. It takes extra distance to bring it to a stop and one must press firmly on the pedal. I would like to get something that bolts right up and not modify anything. Anyone have any suggestions or can share your setup on your 66 with front disc/rear drum and your braking experiences?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Ditch the drum brake booster, and get a disc booster. Yes, it can be difficult to find the correct 65 through 68 disc brake booster, but if your car has console shift you can use the much more readily available 71 through 73 disc brake booster. It should bolt up with perhaps minor modifications to the support plate behind it. I use one of those on my column shifted 66 Town and Country but as I've noted before the column shift linkage interferes with the wider bodied later model booster.

You also need to ensure that the Dual Reservoir master cylinder is a disc brake master cylinder, because the bore sizes are different. If you have too large of a bore it increases the pedal effort required due to the reduced hydraulic ratio (effort multiplication) in the master cylinder.

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

Ditch the drum brake booster, and get a disc booster. Yes, it can be difficult to find the correct 65 through 68 disc brake booster, but if your car has console shift you can use the much more readily available 71 through 73 disc brake booster. It should bolt up with perhaps minor modifications to the support plate behind it. I use one of those on my column shifted 66 Town and Country but as I've noted before the column shift linkage interferes with the wider bodied later model booster.

You also need to ensure that the Dual Reservoir master cylinder is a disc brake master cylinder, because the bore sizes are different. If you have too large of a bore it increases the pedal effort required due to the reduced hydraulic ratio (effort multiplication) in the master cylinder.

My 66 Fury is also automatic with the shifter on the steering column. What bore size would you recommend using with a new dual-reservoir master cylinder? It already came with front disc and rear drum with a proportioning valve; looks like a previous owner made decent attempt at converting.

Here are a few photos of the power brake booster I have (by Midland); the master cylinder is a dual-reservoir but not sure what its bore size is. My Fury did take extra distance to stop while needing to press quite firmly on the brake pedal.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I am not familiar with that type of brake booster, and don't know its proper application, however, it looks suspiciously like a drum brake booster. However, I could be mistaken, and it simply may not be performing properly, and possibly the issue may be exacerbated by the wrong or poorly performing master cylinder.

If your car is column shifted, to avoid the shifter linkage interfering with the booster body, you need to find the proper Bendix Dual Diaphragm. It looks like this:

The master cylinder should be any C body Disc Brake master from 67 - 73. Here is a picture from the Rock Auto website, for a Centric # 13063014, which is from their listings for 1971 C body cars with disc brakes. I could not easily find the bore info, but a good brake shop will have that info somewhere.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Here’s a new twist on things for options.
I bought this from National Moparts last fall and now have it installed
It’s specifically sold for a B-E body
Not stock looking by any means but I wasn’t concerned about that.

when compared to the drum booster I had it gives about an additional 20% power increase or I should say that there’s about a 20% decrease in the effort required for brake application and a smoother travel during braking.
I have never driven a c body with the factory Bendix dual booster so I can’t compare this for comment here.

I did have to shorten the pushrod by 1/2”~5/8” connecting the brake pedal which was a bit fiddly in and off a number of times to get it to the required length.
Cost was about $325cdn from Nigel and I did require stepping back to a manual firewall plate or I think I could have redrilled the power brake plate if I really needed to.
I also had to make new lines since the M/C is now approximately 3” forward from the stock location.
I can lock the wheels up now which I had a hard time doing running the single drum booster.

I’m sure it’s from Chinatown but as long as it works and gets the job done I’m good to go and stop.


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I googled "BH0288E brake booster" and National Moparts was the first hit. Here is the product page: 8" Dual Diaphram Brake Booster with Brackets-Aftermarket

So you used a firewall plate for manual brakes but still using a power brake pedal assembly? Could the booster have bolted right to the firewall without the bracket and extra linkage?

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

I am not familiar with that type of brake booster, and don't know its proper application, however, it looks suspiciously like a drum brake booster. However, I could be mistaken, and it simply may not be performing properly, and possibly the issue may be exacerbated by the wrong or poorly performing master cylinder.

If your car is column shifted, to avoid the shifter linkage interfering with the booster body, you need to find the proper Bendix Dual Diaphragm. It looks like this:

View attachment 485422

The master cylinder should be any C body Disc Brake master from 67 - 73. Here is a picture from the Rock Auto website, for a Centric # 13063014, which is from their listings for 1971 C body cars with disc brakes. I could not easily find the bore info, but a good brake shop will have that info somewhere.
View attachment 485423

Any links or names of places where you found that specific Bendix Dual Diaphragm power brake booster?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

No, unfortunately. The are hard to find in the C body specific size. However, they are out there. They were used from 65 to mid-70 IIRC, and are highly covetted. The difficulty in locating one is why the OP of this thread put the link to a reproduction B and E Body version that's out there from Pirate Jack...
( 1970-1974 Dodge Challenger/ Charger MOPAR Bendix 8" Dual Power Brake Booster | eBay )

Some discussion took place about the fact that the reproduction noted above requires the push rod to be lengthened, but is otherwise identical to the C body units and by all accounts "should" work.

To my knowlege, no further posts have been made as to the worthiness of this swap... and I'm sure that many of us would like to know!

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Any links or names of places where you found that specific Bendix Dual Diaphragm power brake booster?

Call Logan 707-540-5208 at Gerdes Auto Wrecking in Cloverdale California (near Santa Rosa), there was a Chrysler there with one (I'm pretty sure, not 100% positive)

Alan

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

Call Logan 707-540-5208 at Gerdes Auto Wrecking in Cloverdale California (near Santa Rosa), there was a Chrysler there with one (I'm pretty sure, not 100% positive)

Alan

So, the Chrysler had a dual-diaphragm bendix power brake booster?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

So, the Chrysler had a dual-diaphragm bendix power brake booster?

The only picture I have you cannot see it, I do have a picture of the data tag and it was a disc brake car.


Alan

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

The only picture I have you cannot see it, I do have a picture of the data tag and it was a disc brake car.


Alan

You recall if it was disc brakes all around or front only and drum brakes in the rear? Mine is front disc and drum rear?

 

[Davea Lux]

You recall if it was disc brakes all around or front only and drum brakes in the rear? Mine is front disc and drum rear?

In '71 they still had drums on the rear.

Dave

 

[Charlie's 66 Fury]

In '71 they still had drums on the rear.

Dave

Cool. I'll see if it's still available. Thx.