commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Amazing job. As usual and as expected. BRAVO.
New Salon Roof for the NYB
- Thread starter 73 T&C
- Start date
Scheduled for replacement.
Meanwhile..... back at the ranch... been meanin to refurb the C pillar medallions for some time.
why not now... while I wait for a Fellow FCBO member to confirm our meeting tomorrow.
why not now... while I wait for a Fellow FCBO member to confirm our meeting tomorrow.
Removing excess paint before it completely dries......
also installed the trim panel for the sunroof after I confirmed it was working as before.
also installed the trim panel for the sunroof after I confirmed it was working as before.
Cast the emblems with resin. Hope it sets up. It was an old kit. Really old. Crossing my fingers.
box says hard in 5-6 hours and 72 hours for full set.... we’ll see.
box says hard in 5-6 hours and 72 hours for full set.... we’ll see.
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Thank you for doing the emblems, I was wondered how I should refurbish mine, now I know.
My pleasure..... hope it sets up. Just checked it and it looks to be setting up. I left some in the mixing cup as a control to check on it. Still it is setting up slowly.
two hours later...
They are set but not yet hard according to the control. Soooooo...
Put all of them in the toaster oven at 125 as much for the bit of heat as to have them in a dry environment. Seams to be working well.
Got these push on clips to mount the ones that go on the carpets. Should work fine.
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Ok.... so first thing.... you need to let them cool slowly and not bake them to long.
This is my test one I put in the toaster oven.
It hardened well and what’s what let me to put in the others. For the record it was in for two 20 minute periods before I put it back in with the rest for an hour.
upon removing it hot from the oven I literally heard the resin crack.
not much mass there to hold heat so the lessons are: let it cool down slowly and leave in for no more than an hour with this particular resin. But... it is hard and shiny as hell, not sticky at all ( follow the directions on the package religiously) and I can now practice removing the resin for the rehab of some other bits of trim.
all good.
This is my test one I put in the toaster oven.
It hardened well and what’s what let me to put in the others. For the record it was in for two 20 minute periods before I put it back in with the rest for an hour.
upon removing it hot from the oven I literally heard the resin crack.
not much mass there to hold heat so the lessons are: let it cool down slowly and leave in for no more than an hour with this particular resin. But... it is hard and shiny as hell, not sticky at all ( follow the directions on the package religiously) and I can now practice removing the resin for the rehab of some other bits of trim.
all good.
All together now!
Used some ribbon seal for the bases of the studs on the back to get a waterproof seal.... I use that **** on everything.
Cut off a small piece and rolled it to make a 1/16” diameter string that I put on the base after removing the clips very carefully.
Reinserted the clips just past the shoulders of the studs to allow them to seat in the holes as I popped them back in.
Place and thump on (times two)
Lookin good if I say so myself.
Looking better.
Used some ribbon seal for the bases of the studs on the back to get a waterproof seal.... I use that **** on everything.
Cut off a small piece and rolled it to make a 1/16” diameter string that I put on the base after removing the clips very carefully.
Reinserted the clips just past the shoulders of the studs to allow them to seat in the holes as I popped them back in.
Place and thump on (times two)
Lookin good if I say so myself.
Looking better.
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And if you were wondering about the carpeted front mats....
Used the test emblem that cracked to select placement
Using the finished emblem with the studs, I literally just pushed an awl through for the first stud and once in, used the second stud to
Place the awl for the second hole.
Pushed both studs through and....
put on the push in clips a tight as I could to push the emblem as much as possible into the carpet.
Close up of set emblem
Here it is in the car. Waiting for the passenger side emblem to arrive so I can install it.
I know what you’re thinking... why didn’t he wait until both of the front carpet emblems got here to do this. Well... I had some experimenting to do and check anyway and.... I’m a bit impatient. I’m sure you all understand.
Used the test emblem that cracked to select placement
Using the finished emblem with the studs, I literally just pushed an awl through for the first stud and once in, used the second stud to
Place the awl for the second hole.
Pushed both studs through and....
put on the push in clips a tight as I could to push the emblem as much as possible into the carpet.
Close up of set emblem
Here it is in the car. Waiting for the passenger side emblem to arrive so I can install it.
I know what you’re thinking... why didn’t he wait until both of the front carpet emblems got here to do this. Well... I had some experimenting to do and check anyway and.... I’m a bit impatient. I’m sure you all understand.
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75LandYacht
Yank Tank
She’s a real Bute for sure Javier.. you’re a true craftsman sir.
My wife accused me of the same thing.....
She found a show on Netflix called “the repair shop”..... that she swears is about what I do all the time.
She says I should start my own show and call it “old cars for old guys” , start it on YouTube.... and give her all the money!
Luckily.... she has no idea about the production costs.
78Brougham
"Chump"
You could've just drove them to Arizona!
Well that’s pretty much the end of this thread for me.
Still have to readjust the sunroof in a few days (weeks) as the panel takes a set in the closed position. It’s already a little proud at the back as the rear seal conforms itself to the new vinyl and the front compresses. I’ll put any more work on this issue here just to keep it all straight.
Still have to readjust the sunroof in a few days (weeks) as the panel takes a set in the closed position. It’s already a little proud at the back as the rear seal conforms itself to the new vinyl and the front compresses. I’ll put any more work on this issue here just to keep it all straight.
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
FINAL WARNING!!!
I forgot to tell anybody who may be thinking of replicating my custom floor mats the following:
1) Placement: The reason for placing the emblems in the outboard corners close to the seat were twofold: first, to keep my wife from stepping on them all the time and second I don’t want them in my view when driving. I just wanted them to sort of greet you when you opened the door..... it’s an architect thing.
Yeah they’d look great in the middle of the mat but they won’t last looking good for long.
That said... put em where you want.
2) Please, please, please remember to nip off the excess stud length to keep them from holding up the emblem and getting the emblems or studs broken when your wife steps on them. (She will ... she can’t help it)
They’re fragile pot metal and will snap if bent too far... which ain’t much.
I forgot to tell anybody who may be thinking of replicating my custom floor mats the following:
1) Placement: The reason for placing the emblems in the outboard corners close to the seat were twofold: first, to keep my wife from stepping on them all the time and second I don’t want them in my view when driving. I just wanted them to sort of greet you when you opened the door..... it’s an architect thing.
Yeah they’d look great in the middle of the mat but they won’t last looking good for long.
That said... put em where you want.
2) Please, please, please remember to nip off the excess stud length to keep them from holding up the emblem and getting the emblems or studs broken when your wife steps on them. (She will ... she can’t help it)
They’re fragile pot metal and will snap if bent too far... which ain’t much.
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Yes I did. Do you want some??? I still have the templates.
They are made from automotive carpet with a backing of the clear carpet runner on the back to give them thickness and help hold them in place. Both are then sewn together with a 1/2” wide continuous welting around the perimeter. There is a heel pad for the driver and a grommet for the high beam switch on the floor.
they weren’t cheap.... even with my labor set at nothing.
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