New to wiring, trying to fix blower motor

jg09

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Hey guys, I'm working on trying to figure out why my blower motor isn't getting power. It's getting colder out and I could really use my defroster!

I'm new to dealing with wiring diagrams and use of a test light, but I really want to learn how to work with it. I tested all the fuses in the fuse block with a test light and found that the 30 amp fuse for the blower motor doesn't have power on either side of the fuse. Where should I go from here? What should I test now? I have a wiring diagram for a '76 New Yorker but I'm not too keen on how to read it. Any help/knowledge would be appreciated!
 
I'm assuming you have a '65 - '68 Chrysler product of sorts. Pull the fusebox by removing the retaining screw, remove the plastic cover, and you will see that the wires to the fuse are burned and/or corroded, creating an open circuit.

That should be the culprit, considering that your test lamp failed to light when grounded to the body with the other lead touching each fuse contact.

I'm sorry, I just noticed that you have a late '70's NYer - the same should apply - but the fuse box is quite different... pull it and check - it's better to use a multimeter too.
 
First....do you have ATC II or manual A/C.

ATC II has temp readings like 70, 75, 80 on the controls. Manual A/C will have cool and warm on the controls.
 
Man that sucks. I drove around without a blower or heat for a couple months in the winter time once in my old Imperial.0 Couldn't see a damn thing out the front window most of the time plus froze my *** off when it was real cold. Hope you can get is squared away.
 
Did you pull the fuses and check for continuity? I've has glass fuses fail up in the silver part that you cannot see...the fuse looked "good" but, in fact, was not.
 
First....do you have ATC II or manual A/C.

ATC II has temp readings like 70, 75, 80 on the controls. Manual A/C will have cool and warm on the controls.

It's got manual A/C

Did you pull the fuses and check for continuity? I've has glass fuses fail up in the silver part that you cannot see...the fuse looked "good" but, in fact, was not.

I didn't pull them, but I figured I'd get the same effect by touching either side with the test light and seeing if any only had power on one side of the fuse. I did track down the elusive "power window wiring issue" it supposedly had that way. Turned out some connection inside the fuse was broken, and the whole fuse just needed to be replaced.
 
Try swapping out the fuses...it may be that the test light wasn't transferring over enough power. It just may work...
 
Try swapping out the fuses...it may be that the test light wasn't transferring over enough power. It just may work...

Seems like a cheap easy test to try before taking things apart. I'll definitely give it a shot. Thanks to everyone for their input so far.

I've got a second quick wiring question, I'll hijack my own thread for a moment to ask it. I've noticed that the ignition switch is a little wonky. It appears that the contacts inside are worn. I thought to check this when I started trying to diagnose my radio issues. I had an F-150 that would randomly have radio, turn signals, and a few other accessories go out right after I started it up. Turns out it was the ignition switch not turning back to "on" from the "start" position. What kind of symptoms would I see in my NY'er if it was doing the same thing? I plan on replacing the ignition switch soon, but I'm curious as to whether or not this would cause my radio to only work intermittently.
 
If your NYB has tilt/tele, then it has a Delco ignition switch down by the base of the column...they are known to fail. Sadly, Mopar sourced the tilt/tele from GM and put a mini jumper harness from the Chrysler loom to the GM column, so we have to live with some GM parts.

The non-tilt columns were Mopar and I've never had, nor seen any problems with them.
 
If the above suggestions don't work, start looking at the blower resistor before digging any deeper into the problem. I bet that that has taken a dump.
 
If the above suggestions don't work, start looking at the blower resistor before digging any deeper into the problem. I bet that that has taken a dump.

If the resistor went out, wouldn't I still have full speed on the fan? I know some cars are like that.
 
I am having a Sr. moment, so here it goes. Where are the fuses in a 1965 New Yorker?
 
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