New Toy - 1968 Plymouth Fury III

If you have posi both wheels must be off the ground with transmission in neutral. If the rear end is an open type, jack only one wheel and turn the wheel two rotations.
Sure grip.
 
No sure grip on this car...I turned one hub forward, had my niece watch the other side. Other went backward...and visa versa. So...can I use just regular 80-90 weight gear oil to top off rear end?
 
What would you use if the car did have a sure grip?
 
An additive called "friction modifier". Easiest is to pick up a little bottle at Ford, there are others on the market, too.
 
Sure grip.

Posi is my politically incorrect named for all such rear ends. I've used it for probably 50 or 60 years so it's probably burned into my head. I don't knows why the younger generations insist on splitting hairs to label everything. Used to be just two types of people, straight and queer. Now I guess we are up to about 5 or 6. Bah Posi and Queer works for me! :icon_fU:
 
Best decision you ever made when you saw that car.

Edit: I went back to scrutinize the pics. Except for hose clamps, that's almost a reference car.


Found another thing that,s not original but looks good........no not the battery.
 
Posi is my politically incorrect named for all such rear ends. I've used it for probably 50 or 60 years so it's probably burned into my head. I don't knows why the younger generations insist on splitting hairs to label everything. Used to be just two types of people, straight and queer. Now I guess we are up to about 5 or 6. Bah Posi and Queer works for me! :icon_fU:
Only a queer would call it a posi.:poke:
 
Guess I'm in the same generation. All I've ever known is Posi-traction! Guess I'll have to come out of the closet to my wife and kids when I get home today. LOL
 
I'll give you my experience, just as reference. When I got my 68 two years ago it had 102k but had only been driven 30k since 1972, (I contacted the second owner who had it from 72-2012), I had a similar issue with the brakes. It would drive OK but when warm, if you pushed in the clutch on a slope it wouldn't roll. By the time I was done I'd replaced everything except the drums. The root cause was the brake fluid had become something resembling mud and prevented the piston in the master from fully returning. The one thing I haven't done, (it still pulls slightly to the right), is disassemble and clean or replace the proportioning valve. Hope this helps, good luck and enjoy!

You guys are very funny. I enjoy the camaraderie here. Thanks for all your kind comments too.

It was 70 degrees here yesterday. I had taken the car out for a short run the day before and all seemed fine. After checking all the fluids, I decided we'd take the car for ~30 mile round trip drive to visit my wife's mom in the nursing home for Easter Sunday. On the way down, all seemed fine except for a vibration in the steering wheel at 35-45 mph. Thought to myself "wheels up front must need balancing" no big deal. After our visit we set out to return home. Right after after releasing e-brake in parking lot I knew something was wrong...car did not roll well. I backed up slammed on the brakes...moved around a little in the lot...and the car rolled a little better. I decided to set out for home...taking the country roads where I could stop and feel the backside of drums a few times. I did so and they were warm but not hot. As I got about 1/2 way home I got a whiff of hot brake shoes and it seemed like I was having to give it a lot of gas to get the car going. I stopped and checked the drums again...all 4 were hot but certainly not untouchable. I tried to move car and it wouldn't budge so I had my wife call AAA to get it home. The guy did a nice job of "scooping up" the front end so he didn't have to drag it far and actually, I didn't see any one wheel drag as he pulled the car up onto the flatbed. He used straps to winch the car up and also to secure it, so all in all I was pleased. We hopped in cab and he drove us home. When we got home, I drove the car in the garage and it seemed to roll well. Hmmm. I'll have to dig into it this week. Perhaps the e-brake cables are hung up? Maybe all 4 brakes are adjusted too tight? So our first real trip in the car didn't go too well but still we were thankful for AAA, getting home safely and without any damage to the car.

Bob
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Once you've topped off the rear end fluid check the axle seals periodically, if it was low for an extended period they may have dried out. Mine started leaking and I changed both sides.
 
Congratulations. It's a beauty. Stan is right take lots of pics of the engine bay for the benefit of everyone here doing a correct restoration.
Yes, and some of those two splash shields over the shocks. I'm trying to make some new ones and could use the reference.
 
That style clamp you have on there now is better than the factory. Such a trivial item wouldn't even be on my To-do list.
Yah, my motto is that new hoses and belts are a no brainer. Every car, every time.

I agree, I bought some repro spring clamps for "the look" when I put new hoses on but some ended up leaking, went back to the screw type.
 
Thanks for your advice guys...It's all well taken and will be on my mind as I move forward with repairs. I'm in the process of replacing rear brake hose, both rear wheel cylinders, rear shoes and have had drums turned. Rear brake fluid does not look too bad. I've sprayed the full length of each e-brake cable with penetrating oil...making sure they're freed up and will adjust properly. I'm also replacing rear shocks as they look very old...probably original. I've also removed fuel tank sending unit and am repairing it. Broken wire inside plus float is taking on gas. I'll test run car after that and see if problem is fixed. Front brakes seem ok...but not sure yet. Probably will at least bleed them out to get new fluid in. I plan on posting photos of motor and splash guards before I do anything in the engine bay.

Thanks to all for taking the time to post your experience...

Bob
 
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