No power no lights no nothing

YES, you did. DISCONNECT THAT DAMNED THING, REWIRE THE AMP GAUGE AND THEN LET'S SEE WHAT HAPPENS!

I might suggest you connect both wire lugs together on the amp gauge if it doesn't work. When you do so, this will bypass the amp gauge, and give you a complete circuit to your instrument panel, ignition switch and such. Later, I will tell you where to attach an after market voltage gauge to give an accurate reading of what's coming from the alternator, without short circuiting your instrument panel, ignition switch et al. Soon, you should study the wiring diagrams for your '77 Monaco, as its really important you learn what goes where.
Thank you and I had no idea about the guage I didn't even think about it snd its a 72 polara
 
Thank you and I had no idea about the guage I didn't even think about it snd its a 72 polara

My bad, I had the fellow with heater valve problems in mind too just now. Anyway, Mopar had a neurotic attachment to using ammeters to conduct the entire load of the charging circuit through the firewall, looping back to the alternator, which nigh invariably was wired under size too boot. Thank You for snapping me back to your specific ride' Now I'm more sure than ever you have a bad ammeter connection, if not ammeter. Carefully now, let's connect both of your ammeter lugs together on ONE of the screw studs provided. This will bypass your ammeter. Make sure the lugs are nice and clean also, as the screw terminals. ALL of your charge current goes through this!

You can gator clip the voltmeter to something a little later, then when happy, SAFELY terminate it. I like using the main battery lead coming in to the fusebox myself, and I ground things extra with a bonding jumper from front to back bumper.
 
What am I missing here? ’72 Polara runs an externally shunted ammeter, there is no significant current running through the dash mounted ammeter, the ammeter or related 20ga wiring can be open, won’t disable the vehicle. As mentioned, need to resolve the reason why jumping the starter relay doesn’t produce the activation of the starter motor. Battery cable, cable end, negative or positive issue likely, break out some jumper cables to test bypass the cables.
 
What am I missing here? ’72 Polara runs an externally shunted ammeter, there is no significant current running through the dash mounted ammeter, the ammeter or related 20ga wiring can be open, won’t disable the vehicle. As mentioned, need to resolve the reason why jumping the starter relay doesn’t produce the activation of the starter motor. Battery cable, cable end, negative or positive issue likely, break out some jumper cables to test bypass the cables.

Oh, they had the good sense to shunt the things by '72? Excellent! THAT's a relief! I still suspect shoddy wiring to some degree. A spare battery, jumper cables and such would make a good sanity check. I know the ammeter in my '83 was shunted, but didn't realize they had adopted such in the early 70s. Let's see what happens....
 
What am I missing here? ’72 Polara runs an externally shunted ammeter, there is no significant current running through the dash mounted ammeter, the ammeter or related 20ga wiring can be open, won’t disable the vehicle. As mentioned, need to resolve the reason why jumping the starter relay doesn’t produce the activation of the starter motor. Battery cable, cable end, negative or positive issue likely, break out some jumper cables to test bypass the cables.
Its a aftermarket amp gauge
 
My bad, I had the fellow with heater valve problems in mind too just now. Anyway, Mopar had a neurotic attachment to using ammeters to conduct the entire load of the charging circuit through the firewall, looping back to the alternator, which nigh invariably was wired under size too boot. Thank You for snapping me back to your specific ride' Now I'm more sure than ever you have a bad ammeter connection, if not ammeter. Carefully now, let's connect both of your ammeter lugs together on ONE of the screw studs provided. This will bypass your ammeter. Make sure the lugs are nice and clean also, as the screw terminals. ALL of your charge current goes through this!

You can gator clip the voltmeter to something a little later, then when happy, SAFELY terminate it. I like using the main battery lead coming in to the fusebox myself, and I ground things extra with a bonding jumper from front to back bumper.
1970 was the last year full current ran through the ammeter.

Its a aftermarket amp gauge
Hi Slick 72
Do you have a voltmeter?
Is the voltage at the battery cable connector on the starter relay 12V?
Is the ignition connector on the starter relay receiving 12V voltage when you turn the key on?
If not receiving battery power at starter relay is problem, You need to find out where voltage drops from 12V at the connector closest to the battery to 0 volts at the next connector in series, then examine the condition of the wire between the 2 connectors.
If you don't have a voltmeter or multimeter, you are going to have a tough time tracking down your wiring problem.
Also, rec you go to www.mymopar.com and download free factory shop manual, so you can begin studying factory wiring diagrams.
 
Its a aftermarket amp gauge

Now, is it amperes, or Volts which are featured on this aftermarket gauge? IF VOLTS, then this is a voltage meter. If AMPS, its an ammeter. One measures the potential through which a charge might move, the other measures the rate of charge movement. You MUST NOT confuse these units or concepts in your thinking.
 
Now, is it amperes, or Volts which are featured on this aftermarket gauge? IF VOLTS, then this is a voltage meter. If AMPS, its an ammeter. One measures the potential through which a charge might move, the other measures the rate of charge movement. You MUST NOT confuse these units or concepts in your thinking.
You were correct it was voltage guage
 
You were correct it was voltage guage

Very good. I thought so from the way you typed earlier. I want YOU to be SURE of the difference! Anyway, if you have good voltage on the battery, and had a good reading when you had it hooked up on the ammeter, then the fusible link is good. This bodes well for you in some ways, bad in others. Now, have you removed that meter yet? What YOU NEED right now is a good volt-ohmmeter, to do a little trouble-shooting.
 
Very good. I thought so from the way you typed earlier. I want YOU to be SURE of the difference! Anyway, if you have good voltage on the battery, and had a good reading when you had it hooked up on the ammeter, then the fusible link is good. This bodes well for you in some ways, bad in others. Now, have you removed that meter yet? What YOU NEED right now is a good volt-ohmmeter, to do a little trouble-shooting.
Its running great everything is working
 
Hello I was working on my 1972 dodge polara and trying to fix and clean up previous owners mess and the next day I came out to start it up snd got nothing nothing work at all I've got good connection and battery charged if anyone can help direct me to video showing how to wiring a ignition or any advice on where to start trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated also I should mention the resistor is bypassed for some reason
On the fire wall. A block where all the wires go through fire wall connection. I have had as well as I have talked to other Mopar owners having corroded wires in the block. It is right next to the steering column. Next check neutral safety switch for starting car. Need to be in Park or neutral. If battery is good? Any auto parts store can do a power leak down to see if battery is ok. Do all the lights inside & out side work? Battery is good? Check starter. You could have found a repair you fixed & found out why it was fixed by previous owner. Just a couple Ideas from my experience with my Dodges.
 
Its running great everything is working

Praise St. Joe! So, it lit up and ran when you popped that gauge off? I bet it did! Sometimes, just re-nutting down a lug on a screw terminal will make Everything All Right. I rejoice knowing you got it going. Happy Moparring to ya!
 
Praise St. Joe! So, it lit up and ran when you popped that gauge off? I bet it did! Sometimes, just re-nutting down a lug on a screw terminal will make Everything All Right. I rejoice knowing you got it going. Happy Moparring to ya!
Yes I would have never guessed it was the guage I was already rewiring ignition system thanks
 
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