No power to the starter

[bajajoaquin]

Just tried to start my 67 imperial after lunch and it cranked and cranked (at good speed, so battery is good) but wouldn’t catch. In about the third try, there was just no power to the starter any more. No click, no turn, no nothing. There’s still power to the car. The dash lights up, windows still work. Just no power to the starter.

any ideas? Is this what would happen with a burned out fusable link?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Clean your terminals.

 

[Davea Lux]

Just tried to start my 67 imperial after lunch and it cranked and cranked (at good speed, so battery is good) but wouldn’t catch. In about the third try, there was just no power to the starter any more. No click, no turn, no nothing. There’s still power to the car. The dash lights up, windows still work. Just no power to the starter.

any ideas? Is this what would happen with a burned out fusable link?

If the fusible link is bad, you will not have power inside the car, so it is ok. As noted, the battery cables may be dirty. If you still have no starter after you clean the terminals, you may have a bad starter solenoid or there is something wrong with the wiring to it. Try wiggling the gear shift to be sure the neutral safety switch is centered. If you have a test light, check to be sure there is power to the big terminal on the solenoid. There is one large wire that goes down to the starter from the battery cable and a smaller heavy gauge wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. Be sure that both are tight. If you span the heavy gauge terminal on the solenoid to the heavy gauge wire going down to the starter, you can bypass the solenoid. Be sure the car is in park and the brake set before trying this test. If the starter cranks over, using this method the starter and the cable to it are ok. Problem then is with the solenoid or the wiring to it. The two small terminals on the solenoid are famous for corrosion issues and a loose fit, be sure they are clean and tight.


Dave

 

[bajajoaquin]

Thanks.

Was most likely a loose wire. I got under the hood again and looked for the fusable link and found it. I firmed you every connection and then went in and tried it again. Fired right up.

But certainly not dirty terminals. I mean they weren’t dirty, but also the symptoms didn’t fit. It cranked over with authority. Then, on the third twist of the key.... nothing.

Incedentally, I’ve also replaced the wire that goes from the battery to the starter as the original was corroded and causing hit start problems. So if anyone is chasing that down, check that wire.

ETA: also good idea on the neutral switch. That exactly describes the sudden deadness of the key. I didn’t check it specifically, but it’s possible that getting in and out I jiggled it.

 

[TxDon]

I'm signed on as I am having similar problems right now, in my case everything on the car is dead.

 

[Davea Lux]

I'm signed on as I am having similar problems right now, in my case everything on the car is dead.

You have an open connection someplace or you battery is stone cold dead, check the battery voltage Clean the battery cables. Still no power, take a jumper cable from the negative post on the battery to the block. If you now have power the negative cable is bad. Check where it hooks to the block for corrosion. If there still is no power, run the jumper cable from the positive post to the big lug on the starter relay. That will bypass the fusible link and will restore power if the link is bad. If you still do not have power, the firewall plug is likely corroded and will have to be cleaned.

Dave

 

[78Brougham]

Don't forget the main power line that runs through the Ammeter. Very popular problem just ask John @live4theking

 

[TxDon]

You have an open connection someplace or you battery is stone cold dead, check the battery voltage Clean the battery cables. Still no power, take a jumper cable from the negative post on the battery to the block. If you now have power the negative cable is bad. Check where it hooks to the block for corrosion. If there still is no power, run the jumper cable from the positive post to the big lug on the starter relay. That will bypass the fusible link and will restore power if the link is bad. If you still do not have power, the firewall plug is likely corroded and will have to be cleaned.

Dave

Thanks Dave, this post led me in the right direction. It turned out to be the battery ground cable connection at my compressor frame, worked fine until it didn't. I moved the cable to an exhaust manifold bolt and that fixed everything. I will put the details on my project thread.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks Dave, this post led me in the right direction. It turned out to be the battery ground cable connection at my compressor frame, worked fine until it didn't. I moved the cable to an exhaust manifold bolt and that fixed everything. I will put the details on my project thread.

You REALLY SHOULD ground to the intake manifold. I believe that's the prescribed place on my 66 Newport. Mind you, big wires will act as yours did regardless of where they're terminated when the terminal lugs corrode or otherwise fail. Since yours is also a 66, I suspect that Once upon a Time, the ground ran to a long bolt in the intake manifold up front on the drivers side.....