No power

Ironwolf said:
Sometime ...,,, Well maybe a tad more than sometimes the main power connection at the bulkhead connection will be / get corroded if not have an outright melt down. you can have power to one side but not the other. just a good thing to check out !!

View attachment 135107
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I've checked mine. No signs of corrosion or heat. It's been cleaned and had a liberal amount of De-oxit applied to it.
 
live4theking said:
I've checked mine. No signs of corrosion or heat. It's been cleaned and had a liberal amount of De-oxit applied to it.
Click to expand...


So did I miss something ? what happened after you worked on the Amp meter connections ?? did that help resolve the problem ?
 
live4theking said:
Once I got it out I found that the inner nut on both post of the amp gauge were loose. I tightened those and checked for continuity, checked good. So, then I hooked it up to the amp gauge and the blower motor up to the battery and the gauge responded to that as well.
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Great John! So my guess was correct... glad it was an easy fix.... sort of, LOL. Say, the kids have small hands, get them under there:rofl:
 
+1 on getting yours straightened out for sure!

just putting this here from FABO - best verbal description I have found of what *minimum* should be hooked up to the starter relay:

"
Start by disconnecting the battery ground for safety. Take EVERY wire off the rellay, and put them back one at a time as you need them:

1....Big stud......This jumpers the battery, the starter big stud, and any "hot" tap offs together. Also coming off this stud is the main feed "used to go" to the ammeter through the bulkhead connector, via the fuse link

For now, that is ALL that should be there

2....Bare square terminal. ONE wire only............going down to the starter (small) solenoid terminal

3...and4....The two quick connect terminals

If you have no clutch safety switch ground one of them. Hook the other to the "starter" wire coming out through the bulkhead

Now, find out where "what is left" goes and does. If someone has done some sort of alternator bypass, one of them may go to the alternator output. This would hook to the big stud

Anything else, such as fuel pump or ignition should NOT be there except as a power feed to a relay
 
Sounds like you got it fixed. So many people want to look at 500 different things and jump around and not follow the basics. D/C electricity is just like driving down a road, you have a break, or stop, the power WILL NOT follow along, or will go to a different circuit. The ammeter is the second part in the electrical system, glad you found it.
 
Ironwolf said:
So did I miss something ? what happened after you worked on the Amp meter connections ?? did that help resolve the problem ?
Click to expand...

You didn't miss anything. I tested the amp meter and the harness, but I haven't gotten things reassembled yet. I took all (4) of the kids for motorcycle rides tonight. Tomorrow is crazy so I'll be back at it on Wednesday.

78Brougham said:
Great John! So my guess was correct... glad it was an easy fix.... sort of, LOL. Say, the kids have small hands, get them under there:rofl:
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Sort of easy... now for the reassembly. I think once I get the instrument cluster back in it will be clear sailing. Olivia is good at paying attention to instructions I may draft her into helping. Getting her to help really won't take much effort, keeping the others out of the garage will.

traintech55 said:
Sounds like you got it fixed. So many people want to look at 500 different things and jump around and not follow the basics. D/C electricity is just like driving down a road, you have a break, or stop, the power WILL NOT follow along, or will go to a different circuit. The ammeter is the second part in the electrical system, glad you found it.
Click to expand...

You must be methodical with electric. Jumping around just frustrates and makes you tired. I was just in denial a few weeks ago or it would've been taken apart then. Hopefully before the weened is over I'll have it all back together.
 
tech is right. juice goes from point A to Z. start at point A (+). go to point B. on to point C etc. and if you learn how to really utilize a basic incandescent test light, you can solve any electrical problem in that car. easily.
 
rags said:
tech is right. juice goes from point A to Z. start at point A (+). go to point B. on to point C etc. and if you learn how to really utilize a basic incandescent test light, you can solve any electrical problem in that car. easily.
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Agreed. DC is pretty straight forward to deal with. I've got a pretty good grip on it thanks to the AF. I just didn't want to tear into the dash if I didn't have to.

Friends are going to be in from out of town tomorrow so I might not get to it until Friday night.
 
live4theking said:
Agreed. DC is pretty straight forward to deal with. I've got a pretty good grip on it thanks to the AF. I just didn't want to tear into the dash if I didn't have to.

Friends are going to be in from out of town tomorrow so I might not get to it until Friday night.
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The suspence is killing us.
 
Having a similar problem with our 73 T&C. Had it idling the other night and suddenly it quit, and when it did, the electric went with it -- headlights (it was evening) and dome. Boom, just like that. This is my first experience with a C body, but have had A's and B's for years and never had anything like this happen. Ideas?
 
Well, I did the two step with the old girl the other day; two steps forward and one back. When I had the dash apart I found that the clock wasn't hooked up. On reassembly I decided to hook it up. After it was all together and I hooked the battery up I heard a high pitched whining electric motor sound. Sure enough the clock hands were spinning so fast they were a blur. So, off came the bezels to unplug the clock, oh well.

Hooked it all back up last night. She lives and breathes again. Maybe I'll take it to work in the morning.
 
live4theking said:
After it was all together and I hooked the battery up I heard a high pitched whining electric motor sound. Sure enough the clock hands were spinning so fast they were a blur.
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Somebody must have messed with the clock. It should click once then a spring keeps it going till the contacts touch then a solenoid kicks and resets the spring. Takes about a minute and a half in my '67 Imperial. They must have something frigged up. I can't imagine what's wrong. Good thing you disconnected it though! Another project for another day. Glad you got the car going though.
 
78Brougham said:
Somebody must have messed with the clock. It should click once then a spring keeps it going till the contacts touch then a solenoid kicks and resets the spring. Takes about a minute and a half in my '67 Imperial. They must have something frigged up. I can't imagine what's wrong. Good thing you disconnected it though! Another project for another day. Glad you got the car going though.
Click to expand...

Definitely a project for another day. Maybe late fall. The clock never worked in the first one I had so I can go without for a while.
 
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