78Brougham
"Chump"
Mine was out for the first two years in my imp. Got to it when I had the chance. Luckily I've had them apart before and it just needed a good lube job.
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live4theking
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I took her out for a short drive this evening. I may take it to work tomorrow, even though the forecast is wet.
I may have to get some pointers whenever I get around to it.
I'm glad you've got her all sorted out...
live4theking
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Me too.
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X3!
Good on you John. Now remember, No more car heart attacks in the wee hourz in turn pike toll boothz, Jer
live4theking
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I'll agree with that every time. I kicked myself after I got home and realized that I had my hot wiring set up with me. If I would've been thinking we wouldn't have been push that big old car. Thankfully it wasn't up hill.
My experiences .. I took the '67 Newport out one night to get some gas. It was a few blocks from the house and it did fine. Got gas and headed back to the house, but decided to go a few extra blocks as I hadn't drove it in a while. I turned off of the main street and the car died. There were headlights, but nothing "inside" the car worked. So I hiked back to the house and got Dad to pull me back with the pickup.
I started investigating the wiring and found a place on the red wire going to the ign switch had a "bare spot" on it. Obviously, the previous owner had stripped the insulation and twisted another bare wire on there for something that wasn't there any longer. I got a piece of wire and some solderless connectors and put the new wire in with the connectors. End of problem. That's the first one.
When I put the Mopar Perf electronic ignition in, I got it all in, mounted the old MSD-5 box (NOS) up behind the lh headlight, hid the wires in the existing loom, and it all worked. I started it and then killed it. On the 4th start, nothing. I checked for voltage with my electronic meter and voltage was "everywhere", but no start. Rechecked the "red wire" inside and it was a little loose, but voltage there. Tried a new relay the next night, no change.
On closer examination, the battery cable terminals looked good, but I could see something between them and the posts. I pulled the positive cable for a closer look and found a thin layer of "accumulation". I dug out a battery terminal cleaner I'd gotten at a road rallye a few years prior. Cleaned the terminals and posts. Still had voltage "everywhere", but now it started reliably. Possibly the accumulation was allowing "volts" through, but not "amps"?
I never did get around to crimping the red wire's terminal at the inside bulkhead connector. I got to the filling station and it wouldn't start. I quickly looked under there and pushed the red wire back onto the terminal a little tighter. Made a mental note and drove off. With the open area under the dash panel, no real problem to check it, that was about 10 years ago. Still need to crimp it!
ONE thing I'd done was to install the Mopar Perf electronic volt regulator that was supposed to go with the electronic ignition. When re-reading about it in the Race Manual, it noted that it kept voltage at 14 volts "which would affect longevity of all electrical components in the car, including light bulbs". That was probably why the earlier issue with the red wire happened? After deliberating, I put the orig voltage regulator back in. The ignition worked fine so that's still there. Some replacement volt regulators have normal electronic guts in them, under the normal-look cap, but I've still got the "points-type" regulator on the car. Orange boxes and that "constant voltage" regulator are NOT needed for the electronic ign kit to work!
With the orange box, the battery can have enough juice to spin the starter fast enough that it should normally start, but it's lower threshold for firing the plugs is probably about 12V, so even with a decently hot battery, jumper cables will still be needed. Saw that one night at a cruise event! So the orange box would need that "high voltage" regulator. The stock stuff works fine.
CBODY67
I started investigating the wiring and found a place on the red wire going to the ign switch had a "bare spot" on it. Obviously, the previous owner had stripped the insulation and twisted another bare wire on there for something that wasn't there any longer. I got a piece of wire and some solderless connectors and put the new wire in with the connectors. End of problem. That's the first one.
When I put the Mopar Perf electronic ignition in, I got it all in, mounted the old MSD-5 box (NOS) up behind the lh headlight, hid the wires in the existing loom, and it all worked. I started it and then killed it. On the 4th start, nothing. I checked for voltage with my electronic meter and voltage was "everywhere", but no start. Rechecked the "red wire" inside and it was a little loose, but voltage there. Tried a new relay the next night, no change.
On closer examination, the battery cable terminals looked good, but I could see something between them and the posts. I pulled the positive cable for a closer look and found a thin layer of "accumulation". I dug out a battery terminal cleaner I'd gotten at a road rallye a few years prior. Cleaned the terminals and posts. Still had voltage "everywhere", but now it started reliably. Possibly the accumulation was allowing "volts" through, but not "amps"?
I never did get around to crimping the red wire's terminal at the inside bulkhead connector. I got to the filling station and it wouldn't start. I quickly looked under there and pushed the red wire back onto the terminal a little tighter. Made a mental note and drove off. With the open area under the dash panel, no real problem to check it, that was about 10 years ago. Still need to crimp it!
ONE thing I'd done was to install the Mopar Perf electronic volt regulator that was supposed to go with the electronic ignition. When re-reading about it in the Race Manual, it noted that it kept voltage at 14 volts "which would affect longevity of all electrical components in the car, including light bulbs". That was probably why the earlier issue with the red wire happened? After deliberating, I put the orig voltage regulator back in. The ignition worked fine so that's still there. Some replacement volt regulators have normal electronic guts in them, under the normal-look cap, but I've still got the "points-type" regulator on the car. Orange boxes and that "constant voltage" regulator are NOT needed for the electronic ign kit to work!
With the orange box, the battery can have enough juice to spin the starter fast enough that it should normally start, but it's lower threshold for firing the plugs is probably about 12V, so even with a decently hot battery, jumper cables will still be needed. Saw that one night at a cruise event! So the orange box would need that "high voltage" regulator. The stock stuff works fine.
CBODY67
Dirt and accumulated crud increases the resistance and limits the amount of current (amperage) that will pass. It's why it's the first and easiest thing to check. It also should be on everyone's list as a PM to keep the terminals clean.
I've posted this a few times. It explains checking for voltage drop and how added resistance (bad connection or wire) affects everything.
C'mon man... That's gonna bite you at the worst possible time... Crimp that connector!
If your mechanical regulator is set right, you should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. That's per the FSM. Most references will tell you 14.2 volts is ideal.
That's the same voltage as the electronic "constant output" regulators that are suggested for the electronic ignition. The difference is the word "constant". In a simplified explanation, both types of regulators work by turning the circuit off and on. The difference is the mechanical is doing it 50 times a second and the electronic is doing it 2000 times a second.
So will the ECU operate with a mechanical regulator? Sure... Absolutely. The question is if it will operate as well or last as long. Quite frankly, I don't know that answer.
Will the other electrical components be affected? I doubt it. If anything, I would expect them to last longer. Did that affect your red wire? No. Your red wire was compromised by a previous attempt at splicing it. It still needs to be crimped... (C'mon.. crimp it)
I'm confused though... Are you running a MSD or an orange box?? The MSD might not be as fussy about your regulator.
I'm not trying to criticize what you've done or what works for you. A lot of this stuff is more forgiving than some think, but I think it's important that people understand how this all works.
But.. You gotta crimp that red wire.
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One thing I didn't mention.... The Mopar Performance regulator wasn't the most reliable piece in the world.
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