Noisy valve train

[CBODY67]

Let me jump in on this conversation, might be related to a concern and I have with my 440 or might not be.. I have "valve clatter" under hard acceleration when my air conditioning is on. Doesn't happen when the AC is off, i've been told it could be due to low octane gas or that my timing might be off a little. I'm fairly confident that it's not oil related. Back in the day I remember hearing it on other model cars that I've had, but once I changed to a better fuel and higher octane fuel it went away, bad gas related.. could I be experiencing the same issue here?, Low octane fuel for timing? Again, it only happens under hard acceleration, i.e. climbing a hill or passing scenarios. Thoughts?

Classic "mild detonation"/"spark knock"/"valve clatter" from too much timing for the compression ratio and/or fuel being used. Oil CAN get past the rings and become "carbon" on the piston tops as carbon can also accumulate in the combustion chamber. Decreasing combustion chamber volume and increasing related mechanical compression ratio.

In this case, retard the timing a few degrees (about 2 degrees at a time) until it mostly stops. Or put higher octane fuel in the tank. This "by ear" method can be better than trying to use a timing light as the outer ring of the crankshaft damper can move with age, from the original position in relationship to the inner hub, so any timing light settings "to specs" will be "off". All of this also depends upon the keyway in the crankshaft nose being machined in the proper location, too! ONE reason, when rebuilding a motor, to install the balancer and use a dial indicator to verify TDC and mark it on the damper.

CBODY67

 

[Ripinator]

Classic "mild detonation"/"spark knock"/"valve clatter" from too much timing for the compression ratio and/or fuel being used. Oil CAN get past the rings and become "carbon" on the piston tops as carbon can also accumulate in the combustion chamber. Decreasing combustion chamber volume and increasing related mechanical compression ratio.

In this case, retard the timing a few degrees (about 2 degrees at a time) until it mostly stops. Or put higher octane fuel in the tank. This "by ear" method can be better than trying to use a timing light as the outer ring of the crankshaft damper can move with age, from the original position in relationship to the inner hub, so any timing light settings "to specs" will be "off". All of this also depends upon the keyway in the crankshaft nose being machined in the proper location, too! ONE reason, when rebuilding a motor, to install the balancer and use a dial indicator to verify TDC and mark it on the damper.

CBODY67

I always do final timing adjustments by ear.

 

[polara71]

I always do final timing adjustments by ear.

...

 

[jake]

 

[jake]

Everything looks good, timing at 12 degrees, oil pressure good. It definitely quiets down when she warms up. She fires up instantly. I will try to get a video of start up.

 

[jake]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tlRLxECBMXLo8ERc2
Wrist pin?
Valve knock?
Rod Knock?
She purrs like a kitten and no metal fragments in the oil.

 

[jake]

Sorry shitty video.

 

[CBODY67]

Underhood looks very nice! Great job!

Valve clatter? only under load Wrist pin? If the wristpin is loose in the piston, and it's not a floating pin set-up (with end locks to keep the pin in the piston), you'll have issues with cylinder wall "contact" of the piston pin. Rod knock? Probably needs to be under load for that one too. If the oil pressure is verifiably good and "in spec" for a stock pump (with a stock pump), there probably should not be any bearing clearance issues.

The shape of the wrap on the exhaust manifolds leads me to suspect they are stock cast iron manifolds? On my laptop's speakers, kind of sounds like it has headers (from the "tinkling" sounds I heard).

CBOCY67