Since he wants to use 55/100 watt hi/lows bulbs, the math comes out to:
4 (bulbs) x 8.33 amps = 33.32 amps for draw with high beams on.
Of headlights and harnesses.
- Thread starter carrman
- Start date
Since he wants to use 55/100 watt hi/lows bulbs, the math comes out to:
4 (bulbs) x 8.33 amps = 33.32 amps for draw with high beams on.
carrman
Senior Member
Already has 70 amp alt. Perhaps I should make the hi/lo beams just 55/60w.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
FWIW, I ran 55/100's for awhile (at the time my commute consisted of lonely Interstate at night). I used them for about a month before going back to stock legal wattage.
On lo beam, 55W was too bright to oncoming traffic and I was constantly getting flashed by the irate drivers,.
On hi beam, the beam was too focused and overshot my line of vision.
And yes, I had my lamps adjusted perfectly using a Mass. inspection station.
fury fan
Senior Member
I've run a bunch of H-4 lights over the years, in probably 6-7 cars, either making my own relay harnesses, or now that you can buy them - I buy them. $20-30 saves me several hours of time. Plugging the relay trigger wires into an original headlight plug on the car's harness is an easy way to integrate it.
I generally ran JC Whitney 90/130 H4s, in my avatar car I then have a pair of 150w spotbeams in the bottom location, and a set of 130w H3 lights behind the grille. Other car has relays running thru stock 45/55 halogen beams.
Never had an issue with people flashing me when my lows were on. They were brighter than stock, noticeably, but not blindingly so. The quality of housing chrome and lens fresnels have a lot to do with how much/where the beam goes, and those JCW were probably leaving something to be desired.
I used to drive the cars a lot more, in day and night. Can't recall the last time one of them was driven at night, has probably been 5 years. Still have a variety of new-in-box H4, 150w SB, some PAR46 H3 setups from Unity (the copcar spotlight company), and some H3 PAR36 lights too.
I generally ran JC Whitney 90/130 H4s, in my avatar car I then have a pair of 150w spotbeams in the bottom location, and a set of 130w H3 lights behind the grille. Other car has relays running thru stock 45/55 halogen beams.
Never had an issue with people flashing me when my lows were on. They were brighter than stock, noticeably, but not blindingly so. The quality of housing chrome and lens fresnels have a lot to do with how much/where the beam goes, and those JCW were probably leaving something to be desired.
I used to drive the cars a lot more, in day and night. Can't recall the last time one of them was driven at night, has probably been 5 years. Still have a variety of new-in-box H4, 150w SB, some PAR46 H3 setups from Unity (the copcar spotlight company), and some H3 PAR36 lights too.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
90W lo beam and you never had an issue with people flashing you when your lows were on...
I am, literally, quite shocked.
I am, literally, quite shocked.
fury fan
Senior Member
I guess 'never' is a strong word, but I don't remember it being a big issue. Perhaps people saw that only 2 lights were on so assumed they were lows and didn't say anything?
And remember, they were JCW parts, the 90w probably was a bit lower than advertised. One of those cars back in the day had one of their 300+ watt graphic equalizers, too.
And remember, they were JCW parts, the 90w probably was a bit lower than advertised. One of those cars back in the day had one of their 300+ watt graphic equalizers, too.
69_topless
Member
Despite having add the relays, I found the headlights beam output unsatisfactory. Recently I have updated my low beams headlights with H4 conversion. They run as both, low and high lights. With high lights, the standard high beams gets engaged, too.
I need to make a better align of the headlights as the low output in the night were not so great, shining just few meters in front of the car, but even now, the high lights were so much better then just high beams. Did not want to cut the frame holder to increase hole diameter to properly seat down all the way back, I need to remove the light before changing the bulb as there is no space from the inside of the engine bay to do so. But I can accept this task once a 5? years
I have used H4 lights originally designed for Fiat 125P and they fit quite nicely. I got the parts for like 20usd only.This tip is for European readers because of parts availability, but get it before the stock last!
Edit, now the picture works
I need to make a better align of the headlights as the low output in the night were not so great, shining just few meters in front of the car, but even now, the high lights were so much better then just high beams. Did not want to cut the frame holder to increase hole diameter to properly seat down all the way back, I need to remove the light before changing the bulb as there is no space from the inside of the engine bay to do so. But I can accept this task once a 5? years
I have used H4 lights originally designed for Fiat 125P and they fit quite nicely. I got the parts for like 20usd only.This tip is for European readers because of parts availability, but get it before the stock last!
Edit, now the picture works
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When are LED head lights going to be made. I bought 2 flood lights(LEDs) 65 watt equivalent
And they work well but only consume 9 or 8 watts each. If they made some for cars we wouldn't have to re wire anything as the stock wiring would then be overkill.
And they work well but only consume 9 or 8 watts each. If they made some for cars we wouldn't have to re wire anything as the stock wiring would then be overkill.
mopar_4life
Well-Known Member
They do make them.
5-3/4" Round Sealed Beam to LED Headlight Conversion
4PC 5 3/4" Round H5001/H5006 Sealed Beam Hi-Power 36W LED Headlights Replacement
I have looked them up in the past. There are more options than this, but you just have to find the right type you want.
Thanks
Eric
5-3/4" Round Sealed Beam to LED Headlight Conversion
4PC 5 3/4" Round H5001/H5006 Sealed Beam Hi-Power 36W LED Headlights Replacement
I have looked them up in the past. There are more options than this, but you just have to find the right type you want.
Thanks
Eric
mopar_4life
Well-Known Member
I was looking at them just the other day, I decided that I would just stick with the basic headlights for now. Money can be spent else where now. Easy project for later.
fury fan
Senior Member
Those look pretty cool, but I wonder if they are all 4 the same light, in which case 2 of them are poorly-suited for low beam, and the other 2 poorly-suited for high. Regardless, simply planting some LEDs behind some radially-symmetric optics, with no fresnels in the lenses, is a recipe for a not-so-ideal light. Might as well use some 12v LED floodlamps from Amazon.
And I wonder how well teh 27-2800 lumens compare to a headlight (I'm too lazy to look it up).
Interesting link about lumens:
What operators need to know about Lumen ratings | BUSRide Digital
And some interesting (and expensive) headlight designs:
https://www.headlightsuperstore.com/products/led-headlights/led-housings/575-round
And I wonder how well teh 27-2800 lumens compare to a headlight (I'm too lazy to look it up).
Interesting link about lumens:
What operators need to know about Lumen ratings | BUSRide Digital
And some interesting (and expensive) headlight designs:
https://www.headlightsuperstore.com/products/led-headlights/led-housings/575-round
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
So one LED burns out and the whole lamp needs to be replaced or you'll be running diminished lighting.
Next time you're stopped at a light, look at the high mounted tail light of the car in front of you and count how many LEDs are burnt out.
Plus all the stuff out there is cheap Chinese junk.
I'll wait for Sylvania.
I do love my 1,000 lmn LED tactical light, though.
Next time you're stopped at a light, look at the high mounted tail light of the car in front of you and count how many LEDs are burnt out.
Plus all the stuff out there is cheap Chinese junk.
I'll wait for Sylvania.
I do love my 1,000 lmn LED tactical light, though.
mopar_4life
Well-Known Member
So one LED burns out and the whole lamp needs to be replaced or you'll be running diminished lighting.
Next time you're stopped at a light, look at the high mounted tail light of the car in front of you and count how many LEDs are burnt out.
Plus all the stuff out there is cheap Chinese junk.
I'll wait for Sylvania.
I do love my 1,000 lmn LED tactical light, though.
I know the military has started switching to similar units, but they also have Hi and Lo beam types. I need to take a closer look at the ones they have to figure out the brand.
carrman
Senior Member
Trucklite. And I think GE also. Downside, neither has gotten to the 4 round style lights yet.
Dave
Dave
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
But they are being made to MIL-SPEC. You can't afford it.
Your Daily FWIW: http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/should-you-swap-your-headlight-bulbs-for-leds-1728026383
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fury fan
Senior Member
Agreed on that. Anything being USA made (or made by a US company overseas) for OEM release, and with a valid DOT approval, is going to be expensive.
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
That painless harness is a rip! Price wise anyways.
get a Putco plug n play for cheap and NO Hacking!!
Wiring Harnesses by PUTCO
Comes with relays too!
Using this harness with quality H$ low beams and H1 high beams will look stock and provide ample lighting.
Speaking from experience here...
get a Putco plug n play for cheap and NO Hacking!!
Wiring Harnesses by PUTCO
Comes with relays too!
Using this harness with quality H$ low beams and H1 high beams will look stock and provide ample lighting.
Speaking from experience here...
carrman
Senior Member
Just got a custom harness made with 10 gauge high beam leads.
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