Oil

[Plymouth man]

Does anyone know if the castrol 20w50 at Walmart for 23 dollars has zinc in it for our older cars it looks kind of blackish now where it used to be brown to gold color

 

[57fury440]

Castrol makes Castrol GT Classic 20w50 which has plenty of zinc in it. The classic oil is made for older cars.

 

[bronze turbine]

Don't risk it, just use oil that's made for hot rods and classics, like Amsoil.

 

[FURYGT]

Or Penn Grade a/k/a Brad Penn.

 

[Just Carbs]

Don't know. I use Mobile One 15/50 synthetic. Lots of zink.

 

[CBODY67]

Typically, once you get out of the OEM viscosity ranges, zddp concentrations can increase. Many WalMarts also carry a black bottle Edge synthetic oil which is "SL" rated, which means at least at 1000ppm zddp, which is near the minimum of any oil for enough zddp, plus the synthetic baseoils help too.

The GTX Classic 20W-50 oil has about 1400ppm zddp in it, which is more than enough and similar to the AMsoil and other high zddp oils.

One "kicker" in modern oils is that the current "SP" rating spec is for 900ppm zddp levels, PLUS a spec for timing chain link pin wear. Basically leaving NO pin wear in the test. Which measure of unit wear can be greater? That tiny link pin or the wider base of a valve lifter against the cam lobe? Which, in theory, can mean the current gas engine SP oil can be fine for a broken-in cam (and in the case of some engines, the fuel pump pushrod).

I believe that Driven oils, AMsoil, and other similar products are available from Summit Racing?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[croderique]

Everything you wanted to know about ZDDP.
Check out
Check out his other videos as Lake Speed is an expert on oil.

 

[66furys]

For most of us, you can just look at the front of the bottle, most mfrs, and see the multi facet star for the stinkin epa. This indicates the gasoline oils they removed the zinc and phospho from. But, I do not like them for either the small engine that all, imo, have flat tappet, and what about them overhead cam engines, the cam runs on the rocker....flat tappet sliding friction....same same. So, I use mobil 1 turbo diesel for a lot of stuff....now 5-40, was 15-40 and fine for most bearing clearance, other than the new jap engines that use zero zero, somehow. And, if I have a really nice one, I add a touch of additive, just for grins.....not the whole bottle....like taking 3000 mg of tylenol.....not. Yes, all of the racing oils have ZDDP, as do the classic oils. And, our nice Brad Penn also has something unusual, which is non detergent for break in....most will not, but I do for the rings....no sweat.

 

[croderique]

Lake has one word on additives. Don't.

 

[66furys]

Maybe so, maybe not. I worked for years with some folks down there in texas.....great bunch on engine tech. I also learned in school a hell of long time back, that four ball api was the test for scuffing, that is for the heavy loads of sliding friction mainly on the cam, not the rings. So, today, we find some disagreement on the old tests with the new german tests using gears. So here, the old tests may not be the best....The Overrated 4-Ball Test: Why It Fails in Practical Lubricant Assessment. So, we then go to what the new scuffing tests are, and we find some results, by testing here.....https://www.researchgate.net/public...h is in good agreement with previous research. Synopsis here is that the zddp additives help. So, with time and work, the jury gets changing evidence. I have worked with big machines all my life after an engineering indoctrination, and admit that there is all kinds of evidence and it will continue to morph. But, for this moment in time, I think the old timey tested use of zinc and phosphorus to enhance scuffing is prob a good thing and not a bad one. And, for sure, too much of a good thing can be bad. And, what confuses the hell out of me is why more small engine cams do not destroy themselves with this epa oil.....so, perhaps this is some long term evidence to consider as well.