Original Carter to Edelbrock AVS2

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Car is a '68 Imperial with a 440. Instead or rebuilding the original carb, I decided to change to an Edelbrock AVS2. I believe I have everything set up correctly, as it runs and idles great. I still have to hook up the electric choke, but I will try to find a place at the fuse box under the dash. Anyway, before I take it down the road and do some additional fine tuning, I want to make sure I have everything hooked up correctly. The big difference I have noticed is the kickdown lever for the transmission. The original carb had the lever fully against the throttle pin in the front. However, the FSM shows the lever being fully against the rear. Which one is correct? Or, should it be somewhat in the middle? Here are the two pictures, with the old one still on place, and the second with the new carb installed:

Carb Original.jpg
Carb New.jpg
 
Yes, second picture is correct. Actually, in that position, the FSM mentions having the rear of the slot just contact the throttle pin, then add 2 full turns of reload. I added another two turns and raised the part-throttle upshift speeds a few mph, which made the car feel much better. Getting into high gear, at min throttle right at 30mph (which would be about 1200rpm, or there abouts). With it a the factory settings, it will upshift into 3rd too soon and then feel doggy as the engine rpm is too low and the trans will not automatically downshift until road speed drops OR WOT is used.

Durability with that small additional preload? With the OEM transmissions in our '66 Newport or the '70 Monaco, or my '80 Newport 360 . . . NO issues and NO change in atf color resulted. Just more acceleration on less throttle. I tried it on the '66 ages ago at the suggestion of the old-line Chrysler service manager at the local dealer, as he'd done that on his own '67 Newport and it worked fine. After also hearing the horror stories in various places of the importance of "factory settings". Worked great for me. On the '80, I took a 1/8" plastic wire tie and put it in the lower rear corner of the slot. I have NO interest of going with more preload that the amounts I used.

Just my experiences,
CBODY67
 
Thanks, guys. I'll do some driving around/testing tomorrow when I have time. Anyone know the best place to wire in the electric choke? I've heard some plug into the ballast resistor. However, I'm not sure that a good idea. I'm going to try to find someplace on the fuseblock.
 
I've got a brand new one that has been sitting on my work bench for a couple of years, maybe I should get it on for Carlisle.
I just put an AVS on my 440 as well last weekend It was truly plug-and-play right out of the box. So far so good.
Where did you plug the electric choke in at? I'm thinking of piggy baking off the 12 bolt side of the ballast resistor.
 
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I've got a brand new one that has been sitting on my work bench for a couple of years, maybe I should get it on for Carlisle.

Where did you plug the electric choke in at? I'm thinking of piggy baking off the 12 bolt side of the ballast resistor.

Everything I have been reading from Edelbrock, including online and in the manual, says to NOT connect the choke to the alternator. ran a wire to the fuse block, connecting to one of the fuses not being used (radio, in my case).
 
I got the new 800cfm AVS2 installed and I will say it is a noticeable improvement over the stock Carter (750 cfm). It definitely has better throttle response, albeit some of that can be attributed to the properly working accelerator pump. It was almost plug-and-play, with some adjustments made to the idle screws, the fast idle screw, and the electric choke. I did choose to plug the the choke into the fuse block (at the radio fuse slot, which isn't being used). I will say the black plastic cover for the choke does get very hot to the touch when it's on... hopefully that doesn't cause any other issues.
 
I've got a brand new one that has been sitting on my work bench for a couple of years, maybe I should get it on for Carlisle.

Where did you plug the electric choke in at? I'm thinking of piggy baking off the 12 bolt side of the ballast resistor.
Hey John.. I used the OE plug from the Thermoquad… then just grounded the choke to itself.. and TaDa..
 
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