Ot much power.

[furyus 67]

Well the fury is together and running. That I'm happy for!! Doesn't seem to have much sack tho. Starts great, idles fine. I've been messing with timin and the carb for a week and just can't seem to get much power out of it. Took it down the road for the 1st time yesterday and a slight backfire at about 2500 rpm. So I came home and advanced the timing a bit and attempted to to power brake it in the barn. Not very hard, it seems to me that it should break the tires loos fairly easy. Anyway she gets up to about 2k and gives a small puff and stalls. By puff i mean more of a noise than smoke. No smoke at start up or any other time. Not sure what else to do.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

You still running pointz? Or have you converted it?

 

[lbone]

yes if it has points dump them! get a timing light and first check to see what your base timing is. do you have vacuum advance hooked up if so disconnect it and see how much total advance you have at around 2500 rpm you may have given it to much advance. also check to see if the timing chain is hooped. how long has the motor been sitting for could also very likely be stuck valves. for that do a compression test its a easy test and also easy fix.

 

[furyus 67]

You still running pointz? Or have you converted it?

No points. Converted with MSD 6al.

 

[furyus 67]

yes if it has points dump them! get a timing light and first check to see what your base timing is. do you have vacuum advance hooked up if so disconnect it and see how much total advance you have at around 2500 rpm you may have given it to much advance. also check to see if the timing chain is hooped. how long has the motor been sitting for could also very likely be stuck valves. for that do a compression test its a easy test and also easy fix.

vacuum advanced is hooked up, I'll pull it and check.
Fresh rebuild! Maybe 2 miles. 413, Chrome Molly rings ,284/484 Mopar purple cam, clevite 77 full groove mains,weiand intake,new edlbrock 650, comp 911 valve springs.

 

[furyus 67]

New plugs gapped @ .055

 

[furyus 67]

Would the fact that I have a 383 harmonic balancer change TDC with the indicator/timing marks?

 

[Wollfen]

The 383 balancer wont change it as far as I remember since the steel cranks in the RB motors uses the same unit. The timing must be done with the vacuum line disconnected otherwise you are getting too much advance when the revs pick up, also the motor will be tight being a fresh rebuild, it will loosen up after about 500 miles.

 

[moper]

Did you degree in the camshaft (or pay the shop to if they assembled it) during engine assembly? Can you get compression readings from a couple cylinders? Do you know what the timing curve is on it now? By that I mean what initial timing setting, what mechanical and what rpm it comes all in at, and what total timing is?

 

[furyus 67]

Did you degree in the camshaft (or pay the shop to if they assembled it) during engine assembly? Can you get compression readings from a couple cylinders? Do you know what the timing curve is on it now? By that I mean what initial timing setting, what mechanical and what rpm it comes all in at, and what total timing is?

I do not know what the timing curve is on the engine. It's been suggested maybe I need to re-curve my distributor for the cam. I assembled and did not degree it. I'm grabbing my buddies compression tester tomorrow to check that. Unfortunately my timing cover is for a 413 with a truck balancer so when I put the 383 balancer on it , I had to remove most of the timing indicator due the diameter differences in the balancer.( not the best idea I know) . I ordered a bolt on indicator yesterday so I can get a better reading on the timing. It seems to run better a little advanced but still doesn't seem to have much in the "guts" department . I've always been pretty good at setting the timing by ear. Then again those were Chevys! I've got no smoke at start up or any other time which is why I haven't been in a hurry for a compression test. It's been 15+ yrs since I've built anything that didn't have an ecu! I'm re-learning how to tune mechanically. Thanks for the suggestions and input guys!

 

[The Horvaths]

With an ignition module, if the battery is discharged or dying, these symptoms are very common. This happened to me the other week with my '67. Hope you figure it out soon!

 

[furyus 67]

With an ignition module, if the battery is discharged or dying, these symptoms are very common. This happened to me the other week with my '67. Hope you figure it out soon!

Funny you say that! I am also having a charging issue. Not sure if it's the regulator or the alternator. Thanks for speaking about it. I am using an optima red top and charging it between tunings. Mm...

 

[twostick]

I assembled and did not degree it.

Are you referring to the cam or the distributor? If you are talking about the cam, that could be your problem. If the valve timing is retarded it will kill bottom end torque. Dot to dot is a crapshoot at best and it's usually wrong.

A 413 with an MP484 is going to be a little soggy on the bottom end anyway. It won't have a lot of torque below 2500. What converter?

It is going to want 15-18 degrees initial but you don't want more than 34-36 total so get a light and check both ends of the timing. As for the curve, spring it so it's all in 2000-2500 rpm.

Assuming your fuel system is up to snuff and the cam is installed correctly, it should really start to haul the mail from 3K on.

Kevin

 

[furyus 67]

I am referring to the cam. My distributor has a stock curve. Supposedly the converter is a mild stall, 2500/2800. The information is second hand so can't confirm. 3/4's thru this build funds for it got very tight. All of my engine parts are new but from the t/c back I'm at the mercy of someone else's word. Honestly I expected the trans to grenade when I put it in gear, so far so good! I was unprepared for the lack of funds so I've been trying to get it together with what I can afford. As far as my timing I am a touch advanced at the moment . Can't tell exactly how how much until my timing indicator comes in ,sad I know! Thanks for the time and information Kevin it will be put to good use. I'll continue playing in the morning and let you guys know what I've figure out. Again....thanks!

 

[Landyacht]

Funny you say that! I am also having a charging issue. Not sure if it's the regulator or the alternator. Thanks for speaking about it. I am using an optima red top and charging it between tunings. Mm...

The voltage regulator is grounded to the firewall. Sometimes a bad ground could cause a charging issue. I had that problem when I painted my fire wall and reinstalled my voltage regulator. I forgot to leave a bare spot for the regulator to ground to. You should get between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.

 

[NewportRbod]

Could also be the carb. I know it's new, but it may not be calibrated for your area. Of course the timing is up needs to be sorted out first. Sometimes, also a sloppy distributor (worn bronze bushing), stretched timing chain can give you fits. MSD sells timing tape to apply to your 383 harmonic balancer. Good luck, it's probably something simple that was overlooked.

 

[1978 NYB]

There may be nothing wrong at all....

Even with correct timing and proper carb adjustments the .484 cam in a heavy car without a stall torque converter equals no power until you hit the power band which starts at about 2500 rpm's. Rear axle ratio plays a big part too. What rear gear are on you running?

 

[Big_John]

Ok... First, you can have a moly faced ring, a chrome faced ring or a cast iron ring. There is no "chrome moly" ring. But that's not relevant here.

Did you assemble the short block or did a pro do it? The cam shaft should have been checked for proper positioning in relationship with the crankshaft. People call it "cam indexing" or "degreeing the cam". It's done with a large degree wheel and a dial indicator. If this step wasn't done, there's a chance the cam is not in correctly. You can lose some power that way.

But.... Let's assume the cam is in right.

You could have an ignition problem or you can have a fuel problem.

Everyone has mentioned ignition, so I'll be the odd man out and point at the carb. Did you use this carb before the engine was rebuilt? It could be too lean, the air valve on the secondaries could be opening too soon, your accelerator pump could be not right... etc. If it's a new carb, then "out of the box" doesn't mean it set up right for the engine. Could have a vacuum leak too.

 

[detmatt]

I would say if the cam was installed properly but not degreed it should be fine. I personally will always degree but I think it's pretty rare to find them not as advertised.

 

[furyus 67]

There may be nothing wrong at all....

Even with correct timing and proper carb adjustments the .484 cam in a heavy car without a stall torque converter equals no power until you hit the power band which starts at about 2500 rpm's. Rear axle ratio plays a big part too. What rear gear are on you running?

276 rear gear. I'm comparing the power to the 318/2bbl that I pulled out. It wouldn't break the tires loose but it would breaks the loose while break torquing with the same gear.