Ot much power.

you hit it right on the head. i don't understand the use of this camshaft in the first place. an old grind that is way outdated. doesn't have any bottom end grunt in any aplication it is used in.
Chalk it up to inexperience. I wanted something with a nice lope to it. This has one. I didn't build a race car. Just wanted a cruiser with a little more sack than your average Cbody! The issue I'm am having is that even with a lil brake torquing it still won't spin em. Seems to me that it should have more power than the 318/904 2 bbl with the same 2.76 year gear. The 318 brake torque just fine. I'm working on eliminating the issue as I can!
 
I have the same cam in my 440 in the Polara, 3.55's with a 275/60 tires and a 2500 stall. It's just a bit slow out of the hole, but gets going as the rpm's come up. As a coworker said, "it's got a lot of snot". I installed the cam dot to dit and it works fine. In used it because it was free, always the best price. Oh my mph at 2800 is @ 70-75. I personally think it's a good sounding and performing cam for a cruiser.
 
I have the same cam in my 440 in the Polara, 3.55's with a 275/60 tires and a 2500 stall. It's just a bit slow out of the hole, but gets going as the rpm's come up. As a coworker said, "it's got a lot of snot". I installed the cam dot to dit and it works fine. In used it because it was free, always the best price. Oh my mph at 2800 is @ 70-75. I personally think it's a good sounding and performing cam for a cruiser.
That was my thought on it too. I did a bit research on the cam after my friend recommended it and went for it. But this being my 1st engine build maybe I did something wrong, who knows. I've been turning wrenches for a long time but was never an engine builder! I'll get it figure out as soon as the rest of life calms down a bit.
 
Don't believe the hype its a good cam you just need to tune it correctly or take the easy way out and put a comp cam in it with Chevy lobes and the same specs will run smoother because it is weak. Set the timing at 35° btdc at 3800 rpm if you stick with the stock curved dist. You will need to have mid teens degrees advance at idle if you cannot get this with the high rpm at 35° then you will need to modify dist (weld slots up a bit) if you have to do that pull the heavy spring out when you are in there. After that is done you will need to modify the carb from ootb because the vacuum signal is low but I don't remember what kind you have so I'll leave it there.
 
Thanks Dave, words of wisdom! We (family) have had a catastrophe of sorts so unfortunitly the fury is on the back burner for a bit., I do need to get the charging system fixed so the MSD is getting everything it needs. I'm still waiting on my timing tab . Timing will be next. My carb is 650 edlbrock w/manual choke. I love relearning the fundamental necessities to a mechanically tuned engine! Thanks again!
 
Thanks Dave, words of wisdom! We (family) have had a catastrophe of sorts so unfortunitly the fury is on the back burner for a bit., I do need to get the charging system fixed so the MSD is getting everything it needs. I'm still waiting on my timing tab . Timing will be next. My carb is 650 edlbrock w/manual choke. I love relearning the fundamental necessities to a mechanically tuned engine! Thanks again!
The 650 carb is in my opinion is a bad combo for the cam you're running. That cam was designed to increase your engines ability to breath but your restricting the engine by running a small carb. A 750 would be more suitable. Last but not least you need a bigger gear. The biggest mistake that first time engine builders run into is the notion that more horsepower = being thrown back in your seat and suffering sever whiplash when you stomp on the accelerator which more times than not will result in the exact opposite. Instead you end up with a car that is extremely sluggish and can't get out of its own way. When you increase your engines ability to breath by porting heads installing bigger cams ,bigger carbs high rise intakes ect ... you are increasing torque and horsepower. On the flip side by increasing your engines breathing capabilities you are causing your engine vacuum or what is also known as manifold pressure to drop off at idle and under moderate to heavy acceleration. Manifold pressure is necessary for the fuel entering your combustion chamber to atomize properly and is also required to draw fuel from your carb. Low vacuum = poor combustion efficiency and lean air fuel ratios under heavy acceleration. Some carb tuning such as jetting it slightly richer changing power valves and increasing the accelerator pump stroke will to a certain extent remedy the problem But ultimately you need a higher rear end gear and more stall to compensate for the low RPM power losses you will experience from a big cam. If you want your car to run right you either have to run a smaller cam or run a higher gear ratio. I don't claim to be an expert just speaking from personal experience and I had to learn the hard way myself. Sorry to hear of your family issues hope things work out for the best
 
It would seem that it would be a timing or fuel problem as others have eluded to as well. To simply start off, find actual TDC on the engine - then verify that the cam is "around" the right area on the #1 valves. If all that works out; set your idle to 800 with the timing between 16-18 degrees. Mechanically your advance should be in the 38-44 degree range at 2500, yeah it's a range, I've seen more and less to with that initial.

If that doesn't work, it's time to pop the water pump, timing cover and look at the actual degree of the cam.

Where is the flaw in the power band?
Just low or to the 2500rpm range you were speaking?
Does the power seem t pick up after the "pop/stutter/backfire" around 2500?
What is your vacuum at idle?
What intake are you using?
what are your rear gears?


I know this is an area of regular disagreement, but even for a mild combination your carburetor is way too small for your engine. Have you rejetted (or needed/seat in this situation) your carb, verified the acceleration circuit works for your requirement? I don't have any Edelbrock carbs on anything, so I'd need to know if there is any thing that could restrict fuel flow at high RPM during full throttle?
 
I agree with much of what Landyaht stated - as I realized after I posted similar........ Should have read the whole thread instead of just the problem and combinations
 
Plug gap is .055 at the moment. I completely understand the concept of gears and how they affect low end power. The small carb is to intentionally limit the amount of power and hopefully improve mileage a bit as the car is a cruiser. The intake is a weiand 8004. I haven't had much time to mess with it anymore, hopefully soon. My issue with the lack of power came when comparing it to the 318/904 combo that would powerbreak/brake torque fairly easily. Where as the 413 hits about 2000 rpms during a brake torque and dies. I will keep this thread updated as I eliminate possible culprits. Unfortunitly the county is trying to take my home for back taxes owed by the bank we purchased it from so the fury is in limbo. That tho is another story....
 
Back
Top