Ot much power.

[furyus 67]

Ok... First, you can have a moly faced ring, a chrome faced ring or a cast iron ring. There is no "chrome moly" ring. But that's not relevant here.

Did you assemble the short block or did a pro do it? The cam shaft should have been checked for proper positioning in relationship with the crankshaft. People call it "cam indexing" or "degreeing the cam". It's done with a large degree wheel and a dial indicator. If this step wasn't done, there's a chance the cam is not in correctly. You can lose some power that way.

But.... Let's assume the cam is in right.

You could have an ignition problem or you can have a fuel problem.

Everyone has mentioned ignition, so I'll be the odd man out and point at the carb. Did you use this carb before the engine was rebuilt? It could be too lean, the air valve on the secondaries could be opening too soon, your accelerator pump could be not right... etc. If it's a new carb, then "out of the box" doesn't mean it set up right for the engine. Could have a vacuum leak too.

I assembled the engine with out degreeing the cam. Not a lot of experience in that category. The carb was new outta the box for this build. Today I'll be out there addressing the the charging proble, assuming I can get that pinned down and eliminate it from the possible causes the carb will be next. Thanks for info John! 15 ute without a carb make one a foreign lol! Need to pick up some literature!

 

[furyus 67]

I would say if the cam was installed properly but not degreed it should be fine. I personally will always degree but I think it's pretty rare to find them not as advertised.

If I can't nail it down between the carb/ignition is degreeing something that can be done in the car?

 

[furyus 67]

It idles and revs beautifully which only makes this more confusing for me!
https://youtu.be/SX2cvgcaG9k

 

[detmatt]

If I can't nail it down between the carb/ignition is degreeing something that can be done in the car?

It can be done but some disassembly would be required. Rule out everything else first.

 

[1978 NYB]

If I can't nail it down between the carb/ignition is degreeing something that can be done in the car?

It idles and revs beautifully which only makes this more confusing for me!
https://youtu.be/SX2cvgcaG9k

I doubt there's anything wrong with the carb/timing. Like I said it probably runs very good once it hits 2500-3000 rpm's and will run great through the power band (6,000 rpm's). Needs a 2500 stall converter and a 3.91 or a 4.10 rear gear....or a milder cam.

 

[Landyacht]

It idles and revs beautifully which only makes this more confusing for me!
https://youtu.be/SX2cvgcaG9k

I have a 3.73 posi third member. Its a 741 casting. It has a few thousand miles on it. I'll be willing to part with it for $300. The way the engine sounds in the video tells me it needs a high gear ratio for it to perform properly.

 

[furyus 67]

Thanks Landyacht ! Moving up in gears is something I'd like to do! Redford not a bad drive either. Let me get a few other things tightens up and I'll get ahold of you about those!

 

[Landyacht]

Thanks Landyacht ! Moving up in gears is something I'd like to do! Redford not a bad drive either. Let me get a few other things tightens up and I'll get ahold of you about those!

Leave me a message and I,ll give you my number. I have allot of misc parts lying around collecting dust and taking up space. The 741 casting is considered to be the weakest of all the 8 3/4 rear ends but will hold up fine on a mild build. As long as you don't plan on making 700 hp you sould be ok

 

[moper]

The MP cams are horrendous in terms of quality. Even if it was made right (highly doubt it was) it runs 100% better if it is advanced by 4° from straight up because it is a rather large hydraulic cam in terms of how it presents itself to the engine.
In terms of ignition - make sure the coil positive is getting battery voltage minus 1-2 volts, and that the module and voltage regulators are grounding well. Sometimes straps to the back of the head or intake will help that situation.
In tems of timing - Timing by ear is like pooping standing up. Sure, you can do it and it will work, but it could be messy, and why not just sit? Always set timing before you set the carb because timing will affect carb, carb will not affect timing. For what you have, if the distributor is stock, you will want to buy the Mr. Gasket "light" advance weight springs, and you will replace one (not both), and you'll probably have to have the slots for the advance weights welded up to limit the factory centrifugal advance to less than 20°. Then set the initial timing to 16° BTDC and then work on the carb.

 

[Ripinator]

 

[twostick]

I would try a 3.23 in it before I got too crazy with the gear. 3.73 at 2500 rpm is 55 mph. 3.23 will be almost 65.

You will notice a big difference going from a 2.76 to a 3.23 and if you do any highway driving at all, whatever the 3.23 gives up to the 3.73 taking off, which with a 2800 converter won't be much if any, you won't mind losing.

I've got an MP509 in my 493 which is a bunch lumpier than the 484 and it had no problem spinning 275/60's with a 2800 converter and 2.76 gears. The extra 80 cubes is what helps there. What it didn't care for was cruising at 2200 rpm as the cam is not "happy" there. 3.23's put it up to 2500 at the same speed (65ish) and the engine ran much nicer.

Kevin

 

[furyus 67]

Thanks for the information Moper. Although I will admit that as a youngster I was pretty good at setting timing by ear while simultaneously pooping and standing! Or was it ... Eh never mind anyway. It does seem to be happier slightly advanced. Ill be able to get an accurate reading soon.

 

[Landyacht]

I would try a 3.23 in it before I got too crazy with the gear. 3.73 at 2500 rpm is 55 mph. 3.23 will be almost 65.

You will notice a big difference going from a 2.76 to a 3.23 and if you do any highway driving at all, whatever the 3.23 gives up to the 3.73 taking off, which with a 2800 converter won't be much if any, you won't mind losing.

I've got an MP509 in my 493 which is a bunch lumpier than the 484 and it had no problem spinning 275/60's with a 2800 converter and 2.76 gears. The extra 80 cubes is what helps there. What it didn't care for was cruising at 2200 rpm as the cam is not "happy" there. 3.23's put it up to 2500 at the same speed (65ish) and the engine ran much nicer.

Kevin

$300 for a complete third member with 3.73 gear and limited slip in good condition with relatively low miles. Shop around and show me a better deal than that!

 

[twostick]

If that is a clutch type SG, $300 is an excellent price.

My point was a 3.73 on the highway will get old fast. A good converter with a 3.23 will give you the best compromise.

I remember seeing a back to back gear test in a mag years ago on an engine combo that had a properly matched converter and the difference in 1/4 mile et between the tallest gear and the shortest which IIRC was 2.76 to at least 4.10 was a tenth or two.

Kevin

 

[1978 NYB]

If that is a clutch type SG, $300 is an excellent price.

My point was a 3.73 on the highway will get old fast. A good converter with a 3.23 will give you the best compromise.

I remember seeing a back to back gear test in a mag years ago on an engine combo that had a properly matched converter and the difference in 1/4 mile et between the tallest gear and the shortest which IIRC was 2.76 to at least 4.10 was a tenth or two.

Kevin

Roger that.

I believe his problem is just basic driveability. It'll start and idle fine. With a non-stall converter and the 2:76 causes problems with stop and go driving. Probably braking problems too (lack of vacuum) if he has to pump the brake more than once.

 

[rumpfox]

you hit it right on the head. i don't understand the use of this camshaft in the first place. an old grind that is way outdated. doesn't have any bottom end grunt in any aplication it is used in.

 

[1978 NYB]

you hit it right on the head. i don't understand the use of this camshaft in the first place. an old grind that is way outdated. doesn't have any bottom end grunt in any aplication it is used in.

That cam was OK on the race track many, many years ago. But as you said, many different grinds over the years are better.

 

[rumpfox]

30 to 35 with points or you'll have flameout with points. not enough coil sat.

 

[1978 NYB]

I would run a Mopar electronic ignition system....no points for me.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[moper]

"30 to 35 with points or you'll have flameout with points. not enough coil sat."
Not sure what you meant but degrees of timing have nothing to do with coil saturation. The OP was talking about timing. Degrees of dwell is the amount of time the points are closed & the primary side of the coil is saturating. Personally, I set the points via dwell - not by point gap. Less gap means more dwell, more dwell means hotter spark and potentially higher rpm potential.