There are different levels of "going through". Either way, you'll have similar labor costs, but differing costs on the parts used. And there might be some different definitions of "blueprint", too.
Disassemble and hot tank the block. Recondition the crank and rods. New pistons to go in the newly-bored/honed block, with new rings. New bearings for the crank and rods. Timing chain set. New oil pump. Recondition cyl heads to factory specs (incl. new valves, springs, seals, valve stem locks), plius the valve guide work. Hard seats are a plus, in addition to "facing the seats".
From the basic rebuild, you can also specify "line hone" for the crankshaft main bearings. "Deck plate" bore and hone operations. "Deck" the block, to ensure all surfaces are "in square" (which they probably should be anyway, so just minimal amount would be needed).
As almost all aftermarket pistons do not weight what the OEM production pistons did, then a balance job would be needed for best results. Or smoothest operation.
From when I started reading about "blueprint" operations (in the middle 1960s), that operation meant that all items were within factory specs, rather than just slapping new parts in where the old ones had been. INCLUDING the combustion chamber size in "cc" measurements. AND equalizing each chamber to be the same volume. End result was the best engine it couild have been designed to be . . . for a bit more $$$.
In later years, most good machine shops have the quality equipment to end up with "blueprint" situations as a normal matter of course, IF their machine work is done correctly.
So, "going thorough" can mean from a simple clean and bore situatioin to a quality re-build situation. The former might be what a used car lot might desire, whereas the latter could result in a 100K+ mile durability motor, with minimal oil consumption.
And there are varying qualities of engine gaskets, too. Which can figure into the ultimate pricing, too. Which is why I normally recommend requesting "OEM quality or better". The shop operatives should know what that means and can procure items from their suppliers appropriately. Just as with salvage yard parts, once you mention "high performance" (or worse), the price CAN increase, by observation.
From a business point of view, many shops might not give an accurate quote over the phone, due to the variables involved in what the customer really desires. Some might also know that "sticker shock" can happen and send some customers "away", by observation. End result, YOU need to invest some time to talk to a shop in person, to see if they are "smoking" or giving you some detailed, valid cost figures.
Unfortunately, some of the best engine shops might not usually be "just down the road" from where you're at, but a distance away.
Good luck,
CBODY67
