Popping through carb.

carguy300

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Well I got fuel line hooked up, gas to carb. Tried cranking up the 300, almost tried one time, now its popping back through the carb. Acts like timing?, car has not run probably 15 years. All ignition is new. Carter carb new. Charging components new. Set the points, has good spark. Going to recheck firing order. Anything else I might check? Timing chain, gear new. I know that is timed correctly.Maybe lifters need to pump back up? I am worried about the dreaded BACKFIRE!! Any other suggesstions I might double check?
 
I'd bet $0.25 that the ignition is 180° out
Pull the #1 plug, rotate the engine and stop when your finger is pushed off the spark plug seat, pop off the distributor cap and confirm the rotor is pointing to #1
if it is at #6, pop the distributor out and turn it 180°.
put the damper to 10° BTDC and adjust the distributor to just start oepning the points or if electronic, the comutator point right at the pickup.
My $.02
 
When I pulled the timing cover and checked chain, I found that found someone had it timed 180 out. I made sure when I went back with new gear/ chain I set up per the manual, but I am going to recheck it tomorrow. I had both marks lined up, # 1 piston up on TDC and reinstalled dist at #1. Maybe I missed something.
 
When I pulled the timing cover and checked chain, I found that found someone had it timed 180 out. I made sure when I went back with new gear/ chain I set up per the manual, but I am going to recheck it tomorrow. I had both marks lined up, # 1 piston up on TDC and reinstalled dist at #1. Maybe I missed something.

:rofl:
Sorry but if it's 180 out you just turn the crank one revolution and it will be in time straight up. Just check to make sure the distributor rotor is lined up with #1 plug wire.
 
The 6/12 orientation is easier to "see" than a 12/12 orientation is. In timing chain issues, it has usually been "normal" to use the 6/12 orientation when the engine is rotated before anything is replaced. So 6/12 it has always been presumed that #1 is firing then.

When my late machine shop operative mentioned that 6/12 is when #6 fires, which is 180 degree "out" from #1, I was skeptical, but at his age and level of experience, I didn't get past an initial question and his explanation.

At the time, he was talking about Chevrolet engines. I DID eventually find that all Chevy V-6 and V-8 engines are that way, in several Chevy factory service manuals. Plain illustrations and which cylinder was firing in each case.

NOW, if you consider the orientation in the middle 1950s when the B/RB engines were being designed AND the fact that everybody was looking at what everybody ELSE was doing back then, the similarities between the 1955 Chevy V-8 and the Chrysler B/RB engines become apparent. Just that Chrysler changed some things (usually, for the better) in the process. Like the taller deck height, front distributor, shaft-mounted rocker arms, as to the engine design itself. Cam duration for the original B/RB engines was similar to the engines, too. As was Ford's 352 cam timing.

Ford and Chrysler both had V-8s they could have worked off of, but chose to do something different and head in directions that were less-expensive to produce, would be performance competitive, so Chry apparently chose to follow the Chevy orientation, but make the engine capable of easy displacement increases and such.

Funny thing is that in some of the dirt track classes, builders were fusing 1" of metal onto the decks of Chevy 350s so they could run longer strokes and the long rods too. Which pretty much put them into Chry B/RB territory! This was in the 1980s. Smokey Yunick wanted the distributor up front, but never could convince Chevy to make that change. In later years, kits to use shaft-mounted rocker arms came out for SBCs, too. Lots of little things happened, back then, that made me smile.

Now, if the marks are at either orientation, in the B/RB engines, you're either correct or incorrect (180 degrees out). If incorrect, easy to change with the slot to deal with rather than having to clock the drive gear in. Which is a big plus!

Whatever works!
CBODY67
 
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Good news!?,68 300, put the timing mark on tdc, pulled cap, rotor pointing on #6. Pulled out distributor, turned rotor to#1, hit the key and it fired right off. Put my hose back in my gas can, hit the trottle a couple times,on the second time it fired up and idled. Now my new issue is my lifters are noisy. My idiot lights dont work so I dont dare let it run long. Its a brand new oil pump and I primed it with vasoline. Fresh oil and filter. Im going to get an oil pressure gauge and put it in sending unit port and check pressure there first. Also after about 2 minutes my voltage regulator started to smoke! Had alt rebuilt last year but its just now been in service. I dont know why it cant be just one new problem at a time. Im getting to old for this!!
 
Does anyone know if its possible to remove oil pump off my 440 and be able to blow air into pickup tube to verify if its not plugged with years of sitting sludge build up? Has anyone dropped the oil pan without having to raise motor?
 
Does anyone know if its possible to remove oil pump off my 440 and be able to blow air into pickup tube to verify if its not plugged with years of sitting sludge build up? Has anyone dropped the oil pan without having to raise motor?
You probably could but the sludge will congregate around the pick up again.
 
I wonder if there is some kind of solvent that I could pour in the crankcase to dissolve any sludge and flushed it out.
 
Use some ester-based or ester-enhanced motor oil. Mobil 1 has some ester in it. Ester dissolves sludge.

So will the new Valvoline Protect and Restore motor oil. Do frequent oil filter changes, though!

BEST to just mechanically remove it via scraping out of the oil pan, with the pan off of the engine. You can take the pickip tube/screen off for inspection, too. One bolt and one gasket, as I recall. Doing things this way, you KNOW how bad it really is and how much was really there.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Is the oil pump new? Did you prime it before installing it? If it isn't primed, it won't work. The gearotor needs to have a film of oil on it to help it get started sucking oil up through the pick-up tube. A dry oil pump rarely works right out of the box.
 
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