commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Makes my hands sore just thinking about it but something worth doing is worth doing right!
Power Window Relays, now with Power Vents
- Thread starter Big_John
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clair.davis
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Brilliant, and great timing! This is on my list of electrical fixes as I get my switch situation sorted out. The factory should have used relays back in the day, but it's obviously more complicated to wire... but once the harnesses are made installation would have been nearly the same. Subscribed!
Clair
Clair
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Arthritis, most everything I do makes my hands ache but things like this especially.
Really nice John! Thanks for sharing! I will do something like this on my harness as well! I bookmarked the thread for later 
I'm my own worst enemy sometimes... I can't leave well enough alone.
Every time the word "power vent" came up, I thought how cool it would be if my 300 had them. I rationalized it by saying it would be great to open and close the vent window on the passenger side from the driver side.... Yea... Here we go...
I decided I would add these and use the same relays etc. as I did for the windows. That would mean I could just create my own harness.
First, I sourced the hardware. I found a right side NOS vent motor from Mitchell's. The price really wasn't bad, all things considered.
Still some left if you want one..
1969 70 71 72 73 NOS MoPar VENT WINDOW MOTOR Chrysler 300 New Yorker Imperial | eBay
Murray Park had a used one for the driver side... Not a big difference in price from the NOS, but more on that in a minute..
I discovered a couple things... The replacement motor (still sealed in its original box) didn't have the mounting bracket it needs to bolt to the door. The other thing was this was a straight up GM part.
Every time the word "power vent" came up, I thought how cool it would be if my 300 had them. I rationalized it by saying it would be great to open and close the vent window on the passenger side from the driver side.... Yea... Here we go...
I decided I would add these and use the same relays etc. as I did for the windows. That would mean I could just create my own harness.
First, I sourced the hardware. I found a right side NOS vent motor from Mitchell's. The price really wasn't bad, all things considered.
Still some left if you want one..
1969 70 71 72 73 NOS MoPar VENT WINDOW MOTOR Chrysler 300 New Yorker Imperial | eBay
Murray Park had a used one for the driver side... Not a big difference in price from the NOS, but more on that in a minute..
I discovered a couple things... The replacement motor (still sealed in its original box) didn't have the mounting bracket it needs to bolt to the door. The other thing was this was a straight up GM part.
Being a GM Delco part, I got curious and found that they used this same piece on 60's Caddys. Same exact part, just no bracket... and used ones go for a lot more $$. The good news is that they also make new gears and rebuild them too. Not cheap, but good to know.
Makes Mitchell's NOS price look really good...
Power Electric Vent Window Motor LH 61 62 63 64 Caddy Buick Chevy Olds Pontiac | eBay
Murray also sold me a bracket for the right side.
I also needed a plug for the electrical connection.
55-76 Caddy Pontiac Power Window Motor Wiring Harness Connector Socket Adapter
Makes Mitchell's NOS price look really good...
Power Electric Vent Window Motor LH 61 62 63 64 Caddy Buick Chevy Olds Pontiac | eBay
Murray also sold me a bracket for the right side.
I also needed a plug for the electrical connection.
55-76 Caddy Pontiac Power Window Motor Wiring Harness Connector Socket Adapter
The driver side switch is a dual switch, so it can control both sides. The passenger side uses a standard power window switch.
I bought this one on ebay .. The rocker is slightly different, but I believe that's something I can work on down the road. I doubt if most will notice. I think these were used in trucks and later cars that only had two windows that rolled down.
I had the single switch.
Aside from being $75-$100 cheaper, it also had this bracket.
It didn't have the connector though... These are single switch connectors.
The dual switch is basically two switches mounted side to side.
The connector fits.. kinda...
I bought this one on ebay .. The rocker is slightly different, but I believe that's something I can work on down the road. I doubt if most will notice. I think these were used in trucks and later cars that only had two windows that rolled down.
I had the single switch.
Aside from being $75-$100 cheaper, it also had this bracket.
It didn't have the connector though... These are single switch connectors.
The dual switch is basically two switches mounted side to side.
The connector fits.. kinda...
After some thought, and some talk with our German friend, Julian about having some printed, I decided to try this.
I cut two down and glued them together with some RapidFix.
Amazon.com: RapidFix 6121728 Dual Adhesive System, 10ml: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
To make it work, I cut the hinge section off.
Julian also turned me onto these connectors.
Ford Fuel Pump Sending Unit Replacement Terminal Connector 14 16 AWG
They work well with a little squeeze to close them. I also discovered I had to cut the part that crimps the insulation off.
Since I was using relays, I could use smaller wire and that made things much easier. I used #16 wire here and a dot of hot melt glue holds the wires in place.
I glued the top back on with more Rapidfix.
I cut two down and glued them together with some RapidFix.
Amazon.com: RapidFix 6121728 Dual Adhesive System, 10ml: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
To make it work, I cut the hinge section off.
Julian also turned me onto these connectors.
Ford Fuel Pump Sending Unit Replacement Terminal Connector 14 16 AWG
They work well with a little squeeze to close them. I also discovered I had to cut the part that crimps the insulation off.
Since I was using relays, I could use smaller wire and that made things much easier. I used #16 wire here and a dot of hot melt glue holds the wires in place.
I glued the top back on with more Rapidfix.
The wiring was a bit different for the vent motors. Chrysler runs two wires to the power windows and reverses the polarity to make them go up and down. The GM works like... well... a GM and uses the ground from the body and two wires that are switched.
The relay wiring diagram looks like this. This is the driver side and includes wiring to the passenger side.
Old vent
Relays mounted. Each door has 2 for the vent and 2 for the window. I didn't take a pic (I should have, sorry) of running the wires for the passenger side through the big rubber "plug" in the door jamb. I ended up drilling a small hole next to the existing wires to run the new wire. Like the power windows, I tapped into the existing power going to the door.
The splice got a little ugly... The old wire didn't want to be soldered and I cut my loses quick and used one of these to tap into the power.
I had to cut a hole and insert bracket in door panel. The bezel for the new switch will cover the deformation from the crank handle.
The relay wiring diagram looks like this. This is the driver side and includes wiring to the passenger side.
Old vent
Relays mounted. Each door has 2 for the vent and 2 for the window. I didn't take a pic (I should have, sorry) of running the wires for the passenger side through the big rubber "plug" in the door jamb. I ended up drilling a small hole next to the existing wires to run the new wire. Like the power windows, I tapped into the existing power going to the door.
The splice got a little ugly... The old wire didn't want to be soldered and I cut my loses quick and used one of these to tap into the power.
I had to cut a hole and insert bracket in door panel. The bezel for the new switch will cover the deformation from the crank handle.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
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In regards to the plug for connecting to the power vent motors, I found these at 1/2 the price:
GM Power Window Motor Terminal (female) - YnZ's Online Store
GM Power Window Motor Terminal (female) - YnZ's Online Store
Once you get the shipping in there, it gets to be about the same.
Plus $12.35 to ship, $.93 sales tax comes to $25.28 versus $25.98 for Ebay.
But $12.35 to ship? Wow... The terminals can go in an envelope!
Makes more financial sense when one buys spares - I ordered 4 and was advised by their rep NOT to use the online calculator. I'll report on shipping costs when I get the bill.
Their rep is probably smart enough to know they can go in an envelope.
I just looked at my order and I paid $9.99 each and that included shipping. The price has gone up!
Way up!! We'll compare tomorrow.
Wow, great discussion! Big John you are a man after my own heart, I've always loved playing with wiring, switches, relays. In fact all things electric.
I've copied all the great links for bits and pieces, great finds. My favorite source for hard to find stuff is Digikey. They have roughly 6.5 million sku's so selection is rarely a problem. I've internet ordered as late as 4pm and had it next morning at 9am.
Now that you are "relayed" you need to figure out a one button "all up" and "all down" and connect that circuit to a rain detector and or an alarm system. Just happens I acquired a kit years ago that has a rain detector and a relay that was sold to automatically raise your convertible top if it rains. To be truly useful it needs some way to electrically activate the roof latches. Then an alarm system with a remote key fob!!
So many toys, so many ideas, running out of time!!
I've copied all the great links for bits and pieces, great finds. My favorite source for hard to find stuff is Digikey. They have roughly 6.5 million sku's so selection is rarely a problem. I've internet ordered as late as 4pm and had it next morning at 9am.
Now that you are "relayed" you need to figure out a one button "all up" and "all down" and connect that circuit to a rain detector and or an alarm system. Just happens I acquired a kit years ago that has a rain detector and a relay that was sold to automatically raise your convertible top if it rains. To be truly useful it needs some way to electrically activate the roof latches. Then an alarm system with a remote key fob!!
So many toys, so many ideas, running out of time!!
Now that you are "relayed" you need to figure out a one button "all up" and "all down" and connect that circuit to a rain detector and or an alarm system. Just happens I acquired a kit years ago that has a rain detector and a relay that was sold to automatically raise your convertible top if it rains. To be truly useful it needs some way to electrically activate the roof latches. Then an alarm system with a remote key fob!!
So many toys, so many ideas, running out of time!!
LOL. I did a key fob for the trunk and power door locks a couple years ago. It started with adding a later model electric trunk release and snowballed from there.
I've given some thought to doing the windows through a button on the fob, but really haven't sat down and figured it out. I was thinking of at least being able to open the vents.
Doing the top when it rains would be cool, but there's the latches and the boot. I could just see the top going up and ripping the boot off as it goes up. LOL.
Update - with being in Brantford Canada I did get midly boned on shipping, since their company policy is all international orders are tracked/insured flat rate boxes plus a $5 handling fee. He said that with our conversation yesterday he'd already been able to waive the handling fee but couldn't do anything re the box.
$50 USD shipped. Ahh well, at least it's the correct parts AND it's still considerably cheaper than buying 4 from that eBay auction.
$50 USD shipped. Ahh well, at least it's the correct parts AND it's still considerably cheaper than buying 4 from that eBay auction.
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