Proper jacking of a convertible

GBsPanhead

GBsPanhead

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I'm currently looking for a OEM bumper jack for my 'vert...just for show, not to use.

Anyways, I know on my old C5 convertible, it's recommended to open both doors, and jack both sides up evenly. To prevent any twisting. Is this true on Chrysler convertibles? Thanks!
 
No special precautions like that... Just use some common sense.
 
GBsPanhead said:
it's recommended to open both doors
Click to expand...

Really? They want you to open the doors? Seems like that would take away some structural rigidness. I have a '64 Impala convertible and if jacked from a corner, she'd twist/flex to the point that the doors would be wedged shut. I can't imagine why they lost the X frame for '65 :rolleyes:. Lifting the front or rear in unison was fine.
 
If you don't have a service manual I would buy one. In my 66 SM they show the lift point at the front of the book. I would recommend having the top up and locked in place.

You will have some movement but I never have any issues opening doors, when I have my car up on a lift. That being said I don't leave my convertible on a 4 point lift for extended periods of time. If you are only lifting the front or just the rear I have not had any issues with any flex.
 
I never lift one corner at a time. If I need to get under the car I jack it up from the stub frame crossmember in the front and by the pumpkin if I need to access something in the rear then position jack stands accordingly.
 
Unless it's a drive-on lift don't open any doors on a convertible.
Had my GTO in a shop where the young helper opened the driver's door while it was lifted in the rear.
Chipped the paint the size of a quarter when the door hit the front fender.
 
What's the Owners Manual say ?
 
The convertible has those spring loaded wedges on the B-Pillars to keep tension between the door and the pillar. If you leave a door open, that structural support is removed. Door should always stay shut when jacking. These cars have lots of extra metal in the rockers, but that does not automatically mean that nothing can flex. They will flex enough to where you would notice a misalignment of the door latch and striker pin, so why take the chance of beating up either of them.

Dave
 
rexus31 said:
I never lift one corner at a time. If I need to get under the car I jack it up from the stub frame crossmember in the front and by the pumpkin if I need to access something in the rear then position jack stands accordingly.
Click to expand...
This is the best way, I have no movement in the body, even if I have both the front and back up at the same time. The SM has lift points but quite honestly if you body has any rust issues I would not use these points because of the slight flex and my '66 is rust free.
 
Davea Lux said:
The convertible has those spring loaded wedges on the B-Pillars to keep tension between the door and the pillar. If you leave a door open, that structural support is removed.
Click to expand...
Those plastic wedges may reduce squeaking and rattling while driving, but I wouldn't call them "structural". They're just small pieces of plastic and would surely get crushed if they were intended to stop body flex while jacking.

When working on the front, I drive onto ramps instead of jacking up the car whenever possible. When using a jack, I try to lift one end of the car evenly on both sides, though it's not possible to do in the front unless I had two floor jacks. (I jack-up the pumpkin in the rear sometimes, but I don't think I'd jack up the front by the crossmember.) When lowering the front subframe onto jackstands, it is certainly unnerving to see the entire car flex.

My dad used to tell me stories of his '67 Sport Fury convertible. When he would jack up one corner, the rear fender would go "sproing" and collapse! When he let it down, the fender would pop out, back into shape as if nothing ever happened. I imagine that would be a big problem if there was ever any bodywork done in the rear. Jacking it up would've probably caused the paint to crack and any bondo to pop out.
 
Mike66Chryslers said:
Those plastic wedges may reduce squeaking and rattling while driving, but I wouldn't call them "structural". They're just small pieces of plastic and would surely get crushed if they were intended to stop body flex while jacking.

When working on the front, I drive onto ramps instead of jacking up the car whenever possible. When using a jack, I try to lift one end of the car evenly on both sides, though it's not possible to do in the front unless I had two floor jacks. (I jack-up the pumpkin in the rear sometimes, but I don't think I'd jack up the front by the crossmember.) When lowering the front subframe onto jackstands, it is certainly unnerving to see the entire car flex.

My dad used to tell me stories of his '67 Sport Fury convertible. When he would jack up one corner, the rear fender would go "sproing" and collapse! When he let it down, the fender would pop out, back into shape as if nothing ever happened. I imagine that would be a big problem if there was ever any bodywork done in the rear. Jacking it up would've probably caused the paint to crack and any bondo to pop out.
Click to expand...

The ones on my '70 are brass.

Dave
 
Thanks everyone for the education! Reason I asked was I jacked up the front left corner the other day, and as the car was raising, I noticed the front edge of the drivers door gap was changing, so I lowered the car immediately. Moved jack to the front under a cross member I believe, and didn't have any further concerns or issues, and was able to put my jack stands in place and continued my work.
 
GBsPanhead said:
Thanks everyone for the education! Reason I asked was I jacked up the front left corner the other day, and as the car was raising, I noticed the front edge of the drivers door gap was changing, so I lowered the car immediately. Moved jack to the front under a cross member I believe, and didn't have any further concerns or issues, and was able to put my jack stands in place and continued my work.
Click to expand...
Where did you place the jack and what type when you lifted the left corner? curious
 
ALRUI said:
Fully aware, I was just wondering what it was that he did - I wasn't looking to replicate the experience:)
Click to expand...
Sorry didn't understand your question. I always lift jack in the center of the cross member and then place jack's on either side of the lift under the cross member.

I've noticed even if you just put one jack underneath the cross member it can twist. If you put the small top of a standard jack anywhere else on the body you can cause damage to the body.
 
I can't imagine why anyone would think that opening the doors is the right thing to do, they have to add some structural integrity. however I have always been told to unclip the convertible top latches from the top when the car goes on a lift, or is being jacked up. I can rationalize that, as the convertible top struts probably have little effect on the stiffness of the car and any flex front to back might rip the top. I always raise mine with a floor jack under the cross member and the pumpkin, both sides than go up the same and avoid twist, if it does twist. Just my thoughts, I stand to be corrected. CG
 
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