Pulley combos revised!

keep in mind that all the brackets need to come from the same year and same AC/PS combo.
I'm not saying this is an absolute but the more variables you introduce the greater the potential of problems will become.

So the question is.
Are the alternator brackets and power steering brackets from the same year?


We have been assuming they are the originals to the car, that being said where the original pullies?


Alan
the alternator brackets are from a 67 383, the power steering pump brackets are "big block" Saginaw brackets according to the seller. Not sure of the year! This equation seems to have an infinite number of variables to add to my frustration!
 
Your 67 alternator brackets are good as they are, that 72 engine of mine has the same brackets and the saginaw ps pump is off an early 70's car as well. In fact there is an original one in Aidan's 69 fury here too. My wapter pump pulley has about 1/8in clearance between it and the pulley here, I checked the four groove pulley i have on the shelf and it is the same as yours.
 
Thanks Wolfen! I greatly appreciate your effort! I might try a different harmonic balancer. Any idea if a car balancer will work on a truck engine?
 
I'm a bit cunduzzled by the whole thing myself! But being stuck in gm land with moparguys very few far between I'm forced to figure things out myself! That's ok tho because when I do get it...it's that much sweeter! Of course those of you on the forum are a definite life line!
 
Well after a couple days of researching on line I cannot figure out which harmonic balancer I have. I believe if I had a thinner balancer then I could use the 2 groove crank and water pump pulleys that I have. Can anyone identify this balancer or maybe help me figure out if I need a different one? It measures out to about 6 3/8 in diameter.

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Also to make sure I'm understanding this correctly, a forged crank is internally balanced and the cast crank is externally balanced. I know I have a cast crank, so should I have something other than the flex plate on the back side of the crank? This engine has not been ran by myself or anyone I know. For all I know some hillbilly could have slapped it all together and said"runs great!"
 
Any standard 383/440 steel crank harmonic balancer will work. they don't have any counterweights and measure in at just less than an inch thick.
 
Ah! The balancer on there now is around 1 5/8. They should call it mopars law, not murphys! So close......yet so far away!
 
I'll get the one off of my buddies 383 forged crank then. Hopefully I'll be able to run my dual groove pulley then. Thanks again.
 
I think he said he had a cast crank. So a 383 balancer will not work. They were all steel cranks. He would need a balancer foe a cast crank from a 440 or 400. He also needs a torque converter that has the weights on it. This is if he truly has a cast crank.

Any standard 383/440 steel crank harmonic balancer will work. they don't have any counterweights and measure in at just less than an inch thick.



"Also to make sure I'm understanding this correctly, a forged crank is internally balanced and the cast crank is externally balanced. I know I have a cast crank, so should I have something other than the flex plate on the back side of the crank? This engine has not been ran by myself or anyone I know. For all I know some hillbilly could have slapped it all together and said"runs great!"
 
Here's my crank. It's cast. Now if cast = externally balanced, why do the counterweights look like they've been drill for balancing?

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Don't know about the drilled counter weights. Cast does = Externally Balanced and Steel = Internally Balanced.




Here's my crank. It's cast. Now if cast = externally balanced, why do the counterweights look like they've been drill for balancing?
 
Don't know about the drilled counter weights. Cast does = Externally Balanced and Steel = Internally Balanced.
That's been my concern. So I'll have to have counter weight added to torque converter and get a different balancer. Yay! One step forward seems to be 2 steps back with this thing! Shoulda done my homework a little better!
thanks for the help!!
 
That's a forged crank has soft edges and a blended parting line. Cast crank has sharper edges on the counter weights and the parting line, where the two sand molds come together is sharp and thin. Use a thin dampener then the two groove that can be stolen from a 318 also.
 
That's a forged crank has soft edges and a blended parting line. Cast crank has sharper edges on the counter weights and the parting line, where the two sand molds come together is sharp and thin. Use a thin dampener then the two groove that can be stolen from a 318 also.
Wait what? The crank in my pic is forged? That makes things easier but I thought forged looked more machined! I'm far from an expert and feel a bit dumb for not knowing what I have. I'm at the mercy of those more experienced...at least for a minute. Thanks
 
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