Radiator repair advice?

[Apollo12]

I (1970 Fury 3, 318) have an appointment next week at a radiator shop. I was referred by regular repair shop due to seeping on both sides of the radiator apparently from seams. I believe it's original; it has a pentastar on top. I would like to repair and retain as much of it as possible. Hoses are probably 30 years old. Any advice about what to expect or ask? Thanks for any insights.

 

[cbarge]

Good chance the rad will need to be recored.
But my experience suggests go with an aluminum rad. They are much more efficient.
If a non ac car it may have the tiny 19 in rad.
If so, consider going with a 22 inch aluminum rad.
The rad core was designed for a 22 inch rad.
If an Ac car recoring the original 26 inch rad can cost more than a new aluminum rad.
Hope this helps.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

cbarge beat me to it by a few seconds, but I'll post my answer anyways.

Your existing radiator is either going to be repairable or need a new core. Most likely, it will need to be re-cored as the copper in these old radiators is getting pretty weak at such an old age.

I've heard prices ranging from $400 to$750 for a re-core these days.

Hoses are cheap and readily available, and should be replaced going by age alone.

Jeff

 

[ayilar]

I had mine recored. 1970 Polara ´vert with 318. Original matters to me so I paid for it. Cooling is now fine but I had to add a shroud and change the fan blade (from a 1972 Fury) to get low enough temps in bumper to bumper summer driving. The 19in rad is undersized IMHO.

 

[413]

There is a 7 digit number on the top tank of the original radiator. Tell us what that is. We can tell you if it’s original or not.

 

[Snotty]

Had the radiator on the '62 New Yorker and the '70 Newport rebuilt and a third row added. They used the original end caps so both looked factory when I picked them up. But, I will say, those brothers in Bakersfield did excellent work! It will depend on how good your shop is.

'62 rebuilt and row added radiator. Note the original end cap.

'70 radiator, same condition.

 

[The Goose]

My advice really depends on if you live in a hot climate. I’d say junk that dinky radiator and get the biggest one that will fit ( I used a 440 rad on my 69 318 Fury). All you have to do is move the necks on the tanks to mimic your old radiator’s inlet and outlet. This gives you many more options as far as big OEM radiators to go with. Just an idea as it can be hard sometimes to find an exact replacement. It gets 100° here for months at a time and if I head towards the desert 115° is normal. In a cold climate having a cold blooded car might not make sense.

 

[CBODY67]

IF the radiator has never been re-done before, there is a good chance that the flanges on the tanks are not too thin to re-use in a re-core job. Once they are too thin, they become fragile and the integrity of the solder can be compromised over time. Count on at least a new core to replace the current one. Hopefully, the current tanks can be re-used, for originallity's sake. BTAIM

If the radiator worked well to keep things cool in MT, then a re-core should do the trick. BUT, if the price might get high enough, it can get pretty close to what a new radiator or an aluminum radiator (mentioned above) will cost. To me, the welded-together aluminum radiators CAN be more efficient, especially with a high-efficiency core, but also consider that when they might fail (as in clogged up), several years from now, they are just another bunch of "beer cans" in the salvage bin. Just my orientation of things. Whereas, the copper radiator might be re-cored again. YOUR judgment call, though.

To better help things along, do a full block coolant flush. Knock out the core plugs from the sides of the block and flush out all of the accumulated gunk in there, especially toward the rar of the block were everything tends to settle-out. With the new/re-cored radiator of your choice, that should put things as close to "new" as they can be. Be sure to cap off the heater hoses so the flush fluid does not get into the heater core, for good measure.

Of course, some new "green" coolant to about 55% concentration will help keep things as they should be. Changed regularly every two years or so.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

Modern Radiator in Petersburg Virginia has a pretty good rep..., if you want to mail out for a recore.

 

[The Goose]

Had the radiator on the '62 New Yorker and the '70 Newport rebuilt and a third row added. They used the original end caps so both looked factory when I picked them up. But, I will say, those brothers in Bakersfield did excellent work! It will depend on how good your shop is.

'62 rebuilt and row added radiator. Note the original end cap.
View attachment 487375

'70 radiator, same condition.
View attachment 487376

Who did you use in Bako? My old guy at Davis Radiator folded about 2 years ago up there. No immediate need to know but I’m always interested in good local shops...

 

[Apollo12]

Here are the numbers...59538 on left and 2998951 on right. Curious to know what that means. I haven't had any overheating even on the passes... it's a non AC car so if we ever had a 100 degree day here I might overheat before the engine did anyway.

 

[ayilar]

Here are the numbers...59538 on left and 2998951 on right. Curious to know what that means.

Thanks for posting the pics. You can use the number and search the forum. One example:

When is a car no longer "original"?

PS: note that the links I posted then do not work anymore. But googling the longer number and « radiator » should help.

 

[Snotty]

Who did you use in Bako? My old guy at Davis Radiator folded about 2 years ago up there. No immediate need to know but I’m always interested in good local shops...

I think it was called Oildale Radiator. Two brothers worked together on North Chester. Did excellent work, and two humble guys. I just did a search and don't see the shop anymore. A shame.

 

[Apollo12]

Based on that list the number matches for:
1970 C 19" 318 Both Heater ...
So seems original. I'll have to see what they say is needed. Thanks for the help.

 

[Apollo12]

I was told the lower tank is cracked and is not immediately repairable due to supply chain issues. They encouraged me to replace it with an aluminum one and set the old one aside and rebuild it in the future.

 

[Apollo12]

I was told about another local radiator shop. He reconditioned it in one day, repainted it, for $200. No more leaks. Even if it isn't permanent I am delighted to keep the original radiator. Glad i asked around some more locally. Here's a photo at the top of the continental divide. Ran nice and steady temp the whole trip.