Rear bearing going bad?

Yes, to get things to spec, you have to tighten the passenger side until there is no side play, tap the end of the axle, then tighten the ring again and repeat until you feel no end play on the driver side as well. Once it is all tight, then you back off the ring on the passenger side to spec.
Just so I follow, tap the passenger side to meet the drivers, or vice versa.

I used a small hammer on the drivers side only, and never tapped it very hard
 
Just so I follow, tap the passenger side to meet the drivers, or vice versa.

I used a small hammer on the drivers side only, and never tapped it very hard
Yes, tap the passengers side, not the drivers, make sure after you have tightened the ring snug, tap the passengers side and you can use a bit of force to do so, don't go crazy, use a small block of wood and hit that. This will push the axle tight against the drivers side, then you tighten the ring again. Once you have it all snug and tight and the tapping doesn't make the ring loose anymore. Then you can back it off to specs.
 
Thanks a bunch. No wonder I couldn't get it to move, hitting the wrong damn side.

Now I of course have it all back together again, but I am always faster after the 5th or 6th time. :)
 
Before I did anything else, I took Goldie for an extended drive, my vibration issue is still there. It came up after about 15 miles cold about 10 miles after it sat for a few hours. I am starting to think it is my pinion bearing. Is there any way to test this on the car, jacked up in the air? My U joints are only 6 years old and have experience them going bad, this is something totally different.
 
Before I did anything else, I took Goldie for an extended drive, my vibration issue is still there. It came up after about 15 miles cold about 10 miles after it sat for a few hours. I am starting to think it is my pinion bearing. Is there any way to test this on the car, jacked up in the air? My U joints are only 6 years old and have experience them going bad, this is something totally different.

Same here.... I had a "howl" that bugged the heck out of me and thinking it was one or both wheel bearings I got a pair of the "Green Bearings" from Dr. Diff.

For all the mechanical work I don't want to do I just bring it over to my neighbor, Will, who has a full mechanics shop in his garage and let him do it. So I call Will and tell him one of my rear wheel bearings is howling and wanted to have him replace both of them while he was at it. He told me to bring the car over and he'd check it out. When I brought the car over he asks, "how do you know the noise is coming from the bearings?" I replied that based on past experience it was my assumption that's what it was due to the nature (rise and fall) and sound of the noise etc... so he jacks up the car, puts stands under it and crawls under. He then asks me to start the car and put it in drive. With the rear wheels turning he pokes around with his mechanic's stethoscope and says, "your noise is not coming from either wheel bearing, it's your carrier bearing - and sorry that's too much work and not something I want to do". So for now the noise has to stay - I'll just turn the stereo louder! LOL!!
 
bad pinions growl. seen a lot of bad pinions doing light truck and van repair, bur never one that caused a vibration. crush sleeve rears with with a loose yoke and the seal leaking, but no vibration. yoke should have no play, ideally a little preload. a vibration might noticeable in a car though.
 
bad pinions growl. seen a lot of bad pinions doing light truck and van repair, bur never one that caused a vibration. crush sleeve rears with with a loose yoke and the seal leaking, but no vibration. yoke should have no play, ideally a little preload. a vibration might noticeable in a car though.

I am pretty certain now that it is not my pinion bearing, I have a feeling it is the damn tires. The hum is gone now, just the vibration. I raised the car and really pulled and twisted the drive shaft. I was pleasantly surprised at no movement any direction very tight.

I think I have been chasing multiple problems and may now be down to the tires. I recently had them balanced but this vibration issue occurs when they are hot. I really don't want to buy more of the same tire. I have even considered a 17 wheel to get a better tire selection.
 
had a "death wobble" level shake in sprinter cut-away cab with a dead still steering wheel. x hours/checks/road tests/tire rotations/balances/calls to the manufacturers later, put a new pair of front tires on it. problem solved.
 
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You don't have a brake caliper dragging do you?

Kevin
I haven't totally ruled that out yet. It is a definite possibility. I have my infrared thermometer in the car now. I am planning another test drive this weekend to confirm it or not.
 
I haven't totally ruled that out yet. It is a definite possibility. I have my infrared thermometer in the car now. I am planning another test drive this weekend to confirm it or not.

Take the hub caps off if you run them. If you have one dragging enough to heat the brake up to the point that it vibrates the car, it should be easy enough to find even without an IR temp gun.

Kevin
 
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