commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The real problem is the U-bolts.
Don't even bother.
Sawzall. 5 minutes.
Don't even bother.
Sawzall. 5 minutes.
This helps a lot. If you have the room, maybe you can get a Dremel tool in there to surgically remove the nut. Even if you can only put a slice in it, you can wedge a screwdriver into the groove, widen the gap, and break the corrosion bond so the nut can be removed easily with a socket or a wrench.Another way out of replacing the shackles is soak the hell out of them a week before work commences
Bushings for shackles (8) total
Looks complete.breaker bar is already in possession. So shopping list would be:
Nut splitter
Bushings for shackles (8) total
4 nuts for the shackles to replace old(any specialty???)
4 u bolts and nuts
2 new leaf springs (any suggested sources before I google some more?)
2 nuts for the eye bolt in the front of the spring since I be splitting these as well, correct?
2 rear shocks (might as well do it all)
Supplies to clean up and paint rear end while it is out.
sounds like a weekend party.
No isolator pads in your vert.where would I see the pads? I need to confirm if the are scalloped or not to get the proper pads.
67 A bodies had a track width increase over 1st gen A bodies, made worse when 73 slider spindles were introduced as seen on many Duster's that look like they have a narrowed rear end in them.Some vehicles were designed that way. I can remember some A-bodies that had staggered front wheels. Tried to put some F70 on a 67 Barracuda and one side fit, one side hit just as you describe.
No pad tween the axle and the spring?No isolator pads in your vert.
It's a convertible thing. There may or may not be an insulator pad on everything else.No pad tween the axle and the spring?
The pad must be a Formal only thing then.