Rebuild the brake booster

Pete

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After taking the New Yorker for a short trip I discovered that the brake pedal went deeper and deeper while braking. The braking distance became longer and I decided to take a look under the hood. It turned out that the brake booster made a hissing noise while the engine was running. There was also some brake fluid leaking from the brake master cylinder where it was attached to the booster. I decided to pull everything apart, order a new BMC and a revision kit for the booster. (a rebuild booster ordered from the USA was over 300$ w.o. shipping and handling) It contained new gaskets, some springs, new rubber sleeves and some small hardware.
It turned out to be no rocket science and pretty straightforward. (as long as you take pictures pulling it apart) Actually most of the time was spent cleaning and painting.
It brakes like new after the upgrade.
A few pictures from the process and yes, the last picture still has the brake line not connected.


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I'd like to know as well and curious why you didn't upgrade to a much safer dual reservoir system, it would have been the perfect time to do it.
 
FWIW, I got replacement parts for the booster her:

Harmon Classic Brakes

I scanned their website and then called them. Very pleasant and helpful. They sold me what I needed vs. an entire rebuild kit.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
Thanks guys.
I did this work some time ago, but I believed I got the parts from Harmon (as suggested in the link from MYSINBIN)
The car is all original (except for the electronic ignition) and I did the replacement of the BMC without thinking of replacing it with a double one. It would have been better to replace it with a modern system, I agree. (and put disc brakes in front)
 
Thanks guys.
I did this work some time ago, but I believed I got the parts from Harmon (as suggested in the link from MYSINBIN)
The car is all original (except for the electronic ignition) and I did the replacement of the BMC without thinking of replacing it with a double one. It would have been better to replace it with a modern system, I agree. (and put disc brakes in front)

Your drums are fine as long as they are maintained and you can get parts. The dual master is a safety system that allows half the brakes to still work if a leak occurs. Single masters are all or nothing... if a bigger leak occurs.... no brakes at all. With a single master, I would be that much more critical on brake line and hose inspections.

BTW nice job:sSig_thanks:
 
That looks great! Now I have something else to refinish on my car. It looks like a good DIY Project.


Thanks

Eric
 
How did you get the booster apart? Even the FSM says don't attempt to dissemble the booster because of the spring pressure.
 
How did you get the booster apart? Even the FSM says don't attempt to dissemble the booster because of the spring pressure.
There are three types of boosters used when it comes to how they go together. The one shown has a ring around the outside edge that can be unbolted. Then there is the next most difficult type where the rear and front halves act like a gas tank sender unit lock ring and can be twisted to undo. Then there is the third type where the edges are crimped, these are the most difficult for the home handyman.
 
There are three types of boosters used when it comes to how they go together. The one shown has a ring around the outside edge that can be unbolted. Then there is the next most difficult type where the rear and front halves act like a gas tank sender unit lock ring and can be twisted to undo. Then there is the third type where the edges are crimped, these are the most difficult for the home handyman.
Correct, my type was the simple type. Just unbolt the outside ring and go from there.
 
Let me know how that works Stan....LOL!

I'm not going to take mine apart.
 
Wish I had known how lethal installing the hood hinges on a 66 Fury was.
Won't do that again... :eek:
 
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