Brake Service and Front Drums Mismatched

For mechanical and chassis items, you can download a similar Dodge or Plymouth manual of the same model year.

Yes, great point. I love the FSM. The knowledge of folks like you on this forum who have done it is the best way to affirm what I read in the FSM and that I interpret it correctly.
 
I’m pretty certain that your 1968 300 uses 11 x 3 inch front drums as do New Yorker’s whereas Newport’s, Fury’s and Polaris had 11 x 2.75 inch front drum’s. My guess is that someone in the past looked up the part number wrong or assumed that all C Bodies used the 11 x 2.75 inch front drums.
 
The 11x3s are also the HD Brake and Trailer Package brakes, which were non-self-adjusting, from the factory, whereas the cars which had 11x3 front brakes as a normal situation had self-adjusters on them. Same brake shoes.
 
Indeed they are 11x3 just two different style drums which I didn't like.

I will reassemble everything and see how it goes before I realize it's actually the completely worn out steering and suspension that makes stopping an adventure. Then I will wonder why I was in such a hurry to do the brakes when I knew full well the suspension and steering bits were essentially non-existent. But at least so are the motor mounts so everything twists together, no binding!

My to-do list has 13 items. I finished 3 of them. Now my list has 20 items. This is my life wrenching on cars :)
 
lol sounds like its time to just put the disc conversion
 
lol sounds like its time to just put the disc conversion
I have definitely considered it and if this was a daily driver I would definitely go that route. But for a fun car to enjoy in nice weather the drums should be sufficient when they are setup properly.
 
There were also three different suppliers of brake parts for Chrysler too. Motor Wheel, Budd, and Kelsey Hayes, so, the appearance will be different between the three brands (not to mention aftermarket replacement drums too). I've also found that they can have heating/cooling differences too when hot and braking, which can cause a pull to one side. This can even happen with a new drum on one side and a similar one that has been cut to the limit on the other. A mis-match with smooth and finned drums can have the same problem, even though they're listed as interchangeable. Just keep everything in matched pairs side to side as closely as you can.
 
What an adventure this has been trying to get the drum brakes working properly. Ended up with essentially all new parts which STILL caused problems.

Replaced:
Bearings and Races
Drums
Shoes
Springs
Wheel Cylinders
Rubber Hoses to front wheel cylinders
Master Cylinder
Hard line on front driver side from distribution block to rubber hose

After a few test drives around the block the front brakes started "locking". Decided to have the new drums turned as they seemed to "catch" when spinning the wheels. Sure enough, brand new drums were out of round.

Reinstalled everything but the rain is constant and I don't want to test things on wet roads. Will post back once I confirm the issue is resolved.

New shoes and springs installed. Ignore the gobs of grease and oil covering the suspension :)
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Good Morning and Merry Christmas
As you have found out, new drums are not always 'round'. If they are stored on edge, or dropped on their edge, they will need to be 'trued'. As one has no idea if any of this happened before you receive them, it is cheap insurance to just have them checked.
A 100 years ago when I worked for NAPA we would always check/true new drums at no charge. Most would require a single light pass while some would require up to .030 to get them 'true'.
Omni
 
it appears there is missing harware, important hardware...and those return springs up top are worn out. Maybe one of the smarter guys can post a pic for you of the correct set up. Front brakes with self adjusters is not to my liking, but it is not my car. I won't say a word about the linings choice.....
 
it appears there is missing harware, important hardware...and those return springs up top are worn out. Maybe one of the smarter guys can post a pic for you of the correct set up. Front brakes with self adjusters is not to my liking, but it is not my car. I won't say a word about the linings choice.....

Any specifics would help me out. I tried to match the FSM when reassembling and used all new parts, springs, etc. except for the actual backing plate and hub assembly which has new seals and bearings.

Would like to know which linings you would recommend too.
 
Thank you for the suggestion to check with @mobileparts. Probably too late as I have already bought and installed everything. Next time I will definitely keep this in mind as it sucked piecing together parts from Rockauto, Amazon and Napa.

I am curious though, @USSMOPAR, what do you think is missing from the pictures I posted and why do you think the brand new springs are worn?
 
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Return springs u shaped end is not u shaped from to many installations and removal.
Missing springs and proper hardware at the bottom. Car is unsafe with that pic.
You should have used a modern lining material like semi metallic, velvetouch, carbon metallic, nos cop shoes, not asbestos. Do not listen to anyone about nos asbestos linings are good as they are full of cow dung. I have lots of money to bet on that!
 
Right up to the end, I took pictures of the drum brakes as I disassembled them.
There's a dozen pieces the can be accidentally omitted or installed backwards.
No matter how many brake jobs you've done.
My 67 Dart GT had front disc brakes. I was shocked at how easy disc brakes were to work on.
 
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