Removing front seat in 1966 VIP

[rsh1966vip]

Just a quick and probably dumb question. Are there 4 bolts holding down the front seat ? Are bolts just studs going through the floor. It appears there is not bolt head. I kept trying to get a socket on the bolt to find out, there was no bolt head. I was and am surprised.
rsh1966vip

 

[Xenon]

each seat has four studs protruding thru the floor that will have nuts with built on washers...



.

 

[detmatt]

Lots of penetrant before you even think about taking those nuts off, days of penetrant even! And wire brush too.

 

[cbarge]

The seat tracks have studs that go through the floor .
So you undo the nuts from underneath.
If you break the studs no worries!
The studs and nuts are available from member here Quicksilver.
Luckily, Ma Mopar used the studs across the board despite not listed as a C body part.
I used them before and fit perfectly.
Linky to studs:
65 - 78 Charger Road Runner Super Bee Front Seat Rail Mounting Stud Bolts USA | eBay
Hope this helps.

 

[rsh1966vip]

thanks for all of your replies and I will us lots of WD-40. Just a point of interest, the seat belt anchors were a beast to get out.
thanks again
rsh1966vip

 

[cbarge]

the seat belt anchors were a beast to get out.

Impact gun with lots of air pressure makes them easy to break loose!

 

[detmatt]

thanks for all of your replies and I will us lots of WD-40. Just a point of interest, the seat belt anchors were a beast to get out.
thanks again
rsh1966vip

PB Blaster at least!

 

[413]

Wire brush them first. Then go to the store and buy some GOOD penetrant for your car projects. Leave the WD-40 for the housewives that don’t know any better.

 

[57fury440]

Use a deep wall socket. Lots of penetrating oil and work them off easily so as not to break them.

 

[rsh1966vip]

I will follow both pieces if advice.
I have another issue. The back windows will not roll down. I do not want to put too much pressure on the handles. So, I have the back lower seat out and I guess I will need to remove the back upper seat. Then remove the side panels to try to figure out what's going on. What do you think I will find? Any suggestions for the first thing to do/look at?
Thanks for the replies. rsh1966vip

 

[57fury440]

They may be stuck from not being used. You might have to clean the tracks up and use a little grease and or penetrating oil depending on what you find.

 

[jollyjoker]

Just FYI . . . a little cleanup of the rear window tracks is cool. But if you need to start tearing things out, please read some of the threads on here. There is a LOT of stored energy in there, and if you're not quite sure, you can loose a finger . . . !

 

[Mudeblue]

Wire brush them first. Then go to the store and buy some GOOD penetrant for your car projects. Leave the WD-40 for the housewives that don’t know any better.

WD-40 = Garbage! Learned that lesson the hard way. I used it on three grandfather clocks. Over time, turns to gum and had to replace all.

 

[Big_John]

WD-40 = Garbage! Learned that lesson the hard way. I used it on three grandfather clocks. Over time, turns to gum and had to replace all.

WD-40 is primarily for water displacement. That's what "WD" stands for and 40 was for the 40th mixture tried.

It's mostly Stoddard solvent with paraffin. The solvent evaporates and the paraffin remains. WD-40 - Wikipedia

In my experiences, it's really bad for lubricating anything more than a door hinge... and I wouldn't use it on that myself... The paraffin ends up as a coating that attracts every dust particle in the room. I've cleaned countless micrometers and calipers contaminated with the crap. It's also just about useless compared to other penetrating oils.

Personal favorite is PB Blaster and I have used Kroil a few times where I couldn't spray.

In actuality, if the nuts were rusted on that bad... I would probably use some heat or better yet, a nut breaker. The nut breaker will really take care of business, but you want to replace it with the same type of nut/washer that the factory used so it doesn't pull through the floor if you had a bad accident. In a pinch, I would use a common carriage bolt to replace a broken bolt, but those replacements that @cbarge listed would now be my first choice.

 

[rsh1966vip]

I used PB Blaster and let it set for 24 hours and the bolts came off with no problems. Now, I have to work on my back windows that will not roll down.

Richard 66 vip

 

[rsh1966vip]

Here is a quick update: As I said earlier the front seat is now loose. The bolts were very easy to loosen. Today I had to get some help getting the upper back seat out. I am too old to pull and tug on stuff. I drove to my paint guy's shop and he had the seat out in 10 seconds (you need to know your limitations). I actually found a build sheet and a metal tag attached to the springs. First time I have ever found a build sheet! Next I took off the rear back side panels (because the back windows will not roll down). I put some lube on the roller/rails. I will let it set over night and hope that will do the trick. I really do not want to take the guts out. Quick update and some picks.
rsh1966vip