68plymouth383
Senior Member
True. That gives them a whole new element when your holding the square shank, using a wrench to loosen the nut, and the shaft inside the shock is just spinning away.
Replacing shocks...any tips?
- Thread starter PM27G0D
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Yep. Those are your friends when things won't cooperate.
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
My experience on the '71 Fury (which should be identical to the 1970 setup):
- even the OEM front shock absorber is gas-charged. This means that it will automatically decompress, i. e. the top rod slides out. Not sooo fast, but quickly enough to give you trouble: if expanded, it is next to im possible to install it as is.
- If the installed old front shocks are totally worn anyway, it might be easy to get them out. If not, it might be helpful to cut off the threaded rod that protrudes through the hole at the top of the shock tower, after removing the nut and upper washer/rubber. The inch or so that has been cut from the rod will simplify removal of the old front shock absorber.
- Make sure the "eye" of the new shock absorber on its lower end fits nicely into the lower control arm. Slightly different dimensions (i. e. inner sleeve of the bushing too long) could make it hard to install the bushing end into the lower control arm, especially if the top of the shock absorber is already in its final location. If necessary, grind off a little (!) material from both ends of the inner sleeve of the bushing.
- Put lower washer and lower rubber on the new shock absorber rod.
- as was written above, before inserting the new shock, compress it and secure it in that position using some wire or wire-ties. Then slide the shock absorber in and cut wire or wire-tie to allow it to expand again.
- steer rod through shock tower hole, slide on upper rubber and upper washer, tighten nut.
- install lower mounting in lower control arm. The bolt should go in from the side facing front of car.
No need to disassemble the front end.
- even the OEM front shock absorber is gas-charged. This means that it will automatically decompress, i. e. the top rod slides out. Not sooo fast, but quickly enough to give you trouble: if expanded, it is next to im possible to install it as is.
- If the installed old front shocks are totally worn anyway, it might be easy to get them out. If not, it might be helpful to cut off the threaded rod that protrudes through the hole at the top of the shock tower, after removing the nut and upper washer/rubber. The inch or so that has been cut from the rod will simplify removal of the old front shock absorber.
- Make sure the "eye" of the new shock absorber on its lower end fits nicely into the lower control arm. Slightly different dimensions (i. e. inner sleeve of the bushing too long) could make it hard to install the bushing end into the lower control arm, especially if the top of the shock absorber is already in its final location. If necessary, grind off a little (!) material from both ends of the inner sleeve of the bushing.
- Put lower washer and lower rubber on the new shock absorber rod.
- as was written above, before inserting the new shock, compress it and secure it in that position using some wire or wire-ties. Then slide the shock absorber in and cut wire or wire-tie to allow it to expand again.
- steer rod through shock tower hole, slide on upper rubber and upper washer, tighten nut.
- install lower mounting in lower control arm. The bolt should go in from the side facing front of car.
No need to disassemble the front end.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I have this little gizmo that helps a lot!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nice.
What is it?
What is it?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
this is a socket that uses a 3/8" drive gun so you just hold the nut with the 9/16" wrench and then spin the shaft of the shock with the gun to remove the top nut(s)
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
It's a special socket to fit the rectangular pilot at the top of the shock mount stud. Used in conjunction with a end wrench to remove the nut. I've had one since the 70's and only used it a couple times before learning a better way.
Back in my front end shop service days, when a shock replacement job came in, I would use a deep socket on a long 1/2" extension to Place onto the top shock nut and with two or three twists would break the shaft off. A real labor time saver.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I had forgotten about that trick as well! I've been out of the trade for many years officially..
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I always thought that was the correct way.
I also use that method on the exhaust system.
Twist it till it snaps. You needed a new one anyway.
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
Sounds great! But won't the shaft rotate even if the nut is frozen on the shaft? I will try that the next time anyway.
I was wondering about that as well....
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
It does. ..vice grips and a box wrench....otherwise you'll spin till Tuesday
you don't loosen the nut, you rock the top of the shaft back and forth until metal fatigue causes the shaft to break.
saylor
Senior Member
I put OEM replacement shocks back in on my 68 fury, and wish I went with better shocks.
just sayin...
- saylor
just sayin...
- saylor
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I go the next step up.
OEM HD. The shocks that were in optional HD packages. Usually cop/taxi shocks.
OEM HD. The shocks that were in optional HD packages. Usually cop/taxi shocks.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
When's the big shock replacement day? We've given you all our tips, and tricks on how to do it. It may even take you less time than it takes us.
I have to work all weekend, but have almost all of next two weeks off, so probably give it a shot Tuesday or close to that. I'll take pictures!
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Most rust belt folks learn about that method early on. You put a wrench on a nut/bolt and it breaks off and you bust a knuckle. After doing that a couple of times you learn to just break it off in stead of trying to turn it off.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Saves on the knuckles.
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