Fury Pursuit
Senior Member
That's a smoking deal on those H70's, congrtats!
Restoration Exasperation: the '70 SFGT basket case... and an S23
- Thread starter 70GTbasketcase
- Start date
That's a smoking deal on those H70's, congrtats!
Congrats on your initiative and work ethic to sort out the nightmares you've acquired. Just a couple of general and then slightly more specific suggestions. 1: Buy the service manual. You seem to have the mechanical skill, but the manual will occasionally show you how something went together when it's not otherwise obvious. Same thing for the factory parts catalog. The exploded diagrams in it are hugely educational. 2. Looks like you're taking lots of photos, but too many won't be enough. And while you're pulling stuff out, check EVERYTHING for a date code. Not all suppliers use the same format and not all parts will have one. But things like interior trim pieces, radios and other major electrical and mechanical pieces will. The point of having all of these dates is that it's going to help narrow down the elusive date on the trim tag (the body FRAME DATE, not the car's build date). A previous Cdn poster who is building a data base of frame dates, vins and SO numbers will be an enormous help in establishing an accurate if not exact SO number for your car. 3. The information from the S23 fender tag will also give you a clue as to what information needs to go on the tag you'll make up for the GT.
The body frame date can be the build date of the car or it can also be off by a few days or even weeks. Whatever date codes you find on the parts you pull off will determine the start point of establishing the frame date. I know I can confirm production based on engineering model codes. I will work at getting to that some time next week. I am pretty sure I have the order guide for these cars which may provide content detail for S23 and GT variations. Speaking of engineering model codes, did I miss seeing the vin of the GT? If not, can you post the first seven digits of the vin ?
The body frame date can be the build date of the car or it can also be off by a few days or even weeks. Whatever date codes you find on the parts you pull off will determine the start point of establishing the frame date. I know I can confirm production based on engineering model codes. I will work at getting to that some time next week. I am pretty sure I have the order guide for these cars which may provide content detail for S23 and GT variations. Speaking of engineering model codes, did I miss seeing the vin of the GT? If not, can you post the first seven digits of the vin ?
CanCritter
Senior Member
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I am pretty sure I have the order guide for these cars which may provide content detail for S23 and GT variations.
peRk..................these guides are...pics???
The order guides are going to be all or 99% text. List of the option codes and usually contents of the package options. The sales literature, the dealer data book and the colour & trim books may all have illustrations of some if not all of the interiors. Generally the order guide will also list which interiors (and colours) are available in each car line and body style.
Generally the data plates will only show options that were part of the car body. The exceptions are the engine & transmission. There'll be no suspension codes. Generally all of the V8 chassis cars got a front sway bar, but having a front sway bar didn't mean you got heavy duty suspension. Availability of a sway bar and its size was a function of engine size/displacement and whether or not the car had airconditioning.
CanCritter
Senior Member
thanx,,,don't mind me...l garner info where and when l can and am thankfull theres folks about like yourself to school wayward fools like myself....
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Kevin is a vast vault of knowledge that begs to be opened and heard......
70GTbasketcase
Member
Many thanks to member kmccabe56 for the valuable input... and i'm grateful for the input from the other members as well. All of it has already been enormously helpful. I, unfortunately, don't have a "friend" or a guy I know who does body work or has a shop or can rebuild an engine or chrome plate parts. I'm all by myself on this one...
...and my cat thinks I'm an idiot
So being a solo act -as the story continues- I will always be most appreciative for the wise words of the membership helping me sort out the latest conundrum.
Now, to the business at hand: The entirety of the "Vin" is already published on page one of this thread... its on the proposed "reconstruction" of my fender tag.
kmccabe56's wise advice has already been taken to heart and I acquired some fine literature during my parts quest...
My first acquisition was something I think they call "crash sheets". A very informative series of pages with exploded diagrams and parts lists of strategic sections of my Fury. Member 70Tom will probably find a set of "crash sheets" like this useful for the disassembly questions that come up on his project...
I also picked up "the" service manuals on the Fury which are the holy grail of information on all the sub-assemblies, wiring, suspension, and more...
I even got details on the correct hoses and their part numbers so I could identify NOS if I was lucky enough to find one! At the very least I could get "correct" repops if available.
Now, you would think I was done by now but how can your authentic Fury restoration be any more authentic then by having the genuine dealer parts book?
As CanCritter so well notes, its a sickness... so naturally i just haaad to have it:
Its the "magic book". Every part I ever wanted for my Fury restoration! So I copy the part number, photocopy the picture, go to the Chrysler dealership parts counter and they're like
"huh?" "what? you kiddin me? We aint got deese paahts no more"
"Thats unacceptable! I have the magic book, it says you have every part I need, and I have the exact part number and a picture of it, so gimmie an NOS grille this instant or I'll complain to the manager!"
"What? You somm kinda wyze guy? Maaan, geet da f#@k outta heehya!"
Fine way to treat a customer! Just leave me to the mercy of Murray Park and VansAuto.
Oh the pain.
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If you got a part # I've got the entire Chrysler Dealer Network at my fingertips...
70GTbasketcase
Member
Thats awesome... and scary. I have visions of bankruptcy court buying those parts... really!
Many thanks to you for putting your network at my disposal. I'll start putting a list together and send it on to you when its ready. Not likely I'll be able to buy everything -or anything- right away... not with prices like $300 for a front turn signal lens or $600 for a washer fluid bottle. Yikes!
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I've found the parts book to be the most valuable literature to have.
Fury Pursuit
Senior Member
There are two 70 factory parts books,...which one do you have?
Interesting that your service manual is in two volumes. Must be somebody's reprint of the original. I've only ever seen all 1970 Plymouth cars in one pretty thick book.
The "Crash" pages you've found are prepared and printed by aftermarket companies mainly for the benefit of (surprise!) body shops. They're organized a little differently than Chrysler did with their parts books. Still quite worthwhile, and may even have the fewest mistakes in them.
When Chrysler was printing parts catalogues, there were usually at least three editions for each model year. The preliminary or first edition was usually printed in September or October of, in your case 1969, for the 1970 models. A second, interim edition was usually done around February with the final edition usually out by June or July. Note that ALL versions of these factory parts catalogues are going to have MISTAKES in them !!!! Generally the final edition will have the fewest. If you're a die-hard paper geek, you'll be on the lookout for Parts Information Bulletins that will detail any mistakes brought to Chrysler's attention after the last edition was printed. Also somewhat helpful are Cancelled/Obsolete/Superseded lists. These books will have nothing but pages of part numbers in them. Ideally, the part number you're chasing won't show up here which usually means it never got updated. Second best is to find your part number and see that it has been replaced by one or more other part numbers. For our purposes all this means is that any of the listed numbers will be a valid substitute, on a service part basis, for what you're looking for. Obviously the numbers matching crowd will only want the original first number, but some times you can't always get what you want. Third best is to see Can or Sup beside a part number you're chasing. This means that Chrysler has cancelled or declared that part to be obsolete. Not the end of the world by any means, it just means that any examples of this part will still retain this part number once in the hands of the reseller/vultures.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Dammit, Graham, just gimme the password so I can do it myself...
LeBaron1973
Old Man with a Hat
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There are indeed three steps to car restoration depending on one's financial situation:
1) Purchase car.
2) Take to restoration shop.
3) Pay their bill.
LOL
CanCritter knows all about that, but he got a beautiful car out of it.
1) Purchase car.
2) Take to restoration shop.
3) Pay their bill.
LOL
CanCritter knows all about that, but he got a beautiful car out of it.
70GTbasketcase
Member
Uhh.. well, lets put it this way... I don't know. All I can tell you is that it is not a first/second/or third edition of the 1970 Chrysler parts book because the asking price for the genuine 69-70 Chrysler parts book -sept , Feb, or late jun-july issue, was $500 to $600 and some greedy joes had it jacked up as high as $800 back in 2010 when i was looking to buy one.
All I could afford was the 1970-71 passenger car parts catalog January 1972 edition which set me back around $300 as I recall. Based on what member kmccabe56 says, My '72 book may be a good find afterall because the "early' mistakes should be fixed by the 1972 printing, yes?
Dammit, Graham, just gimme the password so I can do it myself...
We can discuss that possibility over a couple in April...it ain't rocket science as you are no doubt aware..
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I found a GM dealer's password once and a Ford dealer's before that. ChryslerARO is still proving elusive...ain't rocket science as you are no doubt aware..
FCA Dealer codes took about 10 seconds. lol
Perseverance will prevail.
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There'll be a print date likely on the first page.
Holy crap! I knew that parts books were getting pricey, but had no idea they'd reached "highway robbery" levels. I'm thinking a January 1972 printing of the 70-71 parts catalogue will be a final edition. I'd call that the ideal version to have. ANY version of the parts catalogue is better than having none. The radiator hose catalogue you have was printed by Mopar as much for the aftermarket as it was/is for dealer use. Note that right on the first page they're talking about flex hoses. No flex hose was ever original equipment. Flex hoses are meant to be a one size fits all, band-aid type solution to as many applications as possible. When ever I see a car with a flex hose on the engine, all I can think is that the owner took the lazy way out and didn't try hard enough to find the correct molded hose. Even when an "oe" hose isn't available any more a little careful homework will turn up a molded hose, originally intended for an entirely different application that with some trimming and tweaking will fit.
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