Restoration Underway 1971 Plymouth Sport Fury GT Canadian Promotional Car - MCG Article

Right, just in case anyone was wondering how it looked if it was done. FYI, as you may know the driver's speaker has very little clearance above the clock/dash frame. The small magnet width makes a difference.
 
Where did you get those truck extensions and quarters? Sorry for replying to such an old post.
More photos randomly uploaded. The GT is in the process of receiving NOS quarter panels, trunk floor extensions, outer wheelhouses and a section of an NOS left rocker panel.

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Where did you get those trunk extensions? They dont look like c2c. Sorry for replying to such an old post but my 70 is in the same condition
 
Where did you get those truck extensions and quarters? Sorry for replying to such an old post.

Where did you get those trunk extensions? They dont look like c2c. Sorry for replying to such an old post but my 70 is in the same condition

They are all NOS parts that I purchased 20+ years ago. The car will be getting NOS fenders and an NOS rocker panel as well. I purchased another '71 GT back in 1995 that I had for a long time and eventually sold because it was to rusted/rotted from being a New Jersey daily driver it's entire life and started collecting NOS parts for it starting in 1995. This car will be getting a lot of NOS parts; bumpers, grill & headlamp doors, valance panels, tail lamp assemblies, rear bumper rubber applique' and a lot of moldings.

Currently, a stub frame swap is nearly complete.
 
Thanks! Looks great. NOS seems to be hard to come by now days. I'm new to C Bodies. The availability of parts is frustrating.
 
Awesome project!

I'm curious about the stub frame rails, this seems like a common condition on C-bodies where they're dented inwards on the bottom from jack abuse over the years.

What's the best method to straighten the metal here? Any access holes from the top?

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Awesome project!

I'm curious about the stub frame rails, this seems like a common condition on C-bodies where they're dented inwards on the bottom from jack abuse over the years.

What's the best method to straighten the metal here? Any access holes from the top?

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My advice is to leave it alone if it isn't rotted and is solid. There is no access from the top. If it really bothers you, weld a plate on and do your best to grind down the welds and make it look better.
 
My advice is to leave it alone if it isn't rotted and is solid. There is no access from the top. If it really bothers you, weld a plate on and do your best to grind down the welds and make it look better.

I figured.... the only idea I had was to use one of those stud welders and pull it out with an axle puller, the metal looks thin enough to do so. I'm guessing it is 14 gauge.

Ma Mopar should have added jacking pads into the design.
 
I figured.... the only idea I had was to use one of those stud welders and pull it out with an axle puller, the metal looks thin enough to do so. I'm guessing it is 14 gauge.

Ma Mopar should have added jacking pads into the design.

Often it was caused by the use of bottle jacks.
 
This project was on hold for a while for several reasons but it is now being worked on. A parts car was purchased for a better stub frame and some other parts. The replacement stub frame is straight, without dents from jacks and only had a small rust hole. It’s been sandblasted and prepped for paint.


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More photos. Note the wheel in the second to last photo. As an early production car it used the standard 1970 GT wheel with the 1971 wide trim ring and center caps that were chrome just like the ones on a 1969 factory prototype wheel.

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More photos. Original stub frame with and without the engine and transmission.

The donor stub frame should be painted and ready for reassembly as I write this post.


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