Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

[Samplingman]

Dash frame was scrubbed using phosphoric acid solution. This is a before shot:

Rust-reformer to take care of any remaining pits:

I repainted the underside in aluminum color to make it easier to see under the dash once re-installed.

It took a couple of tries, but I think I finally captured the correct sheen for the exposed metal parts:

 

[Samplingman]

The pad was next. I remembered a tip from @Marian regarding Skin So Soft as a vinyl cleaner/conditioner. Time will tell, but so far so good, it did clean out the grime:

Can anyone tell me which one of these numbers is the date stamp if any? Just curious.

 

[Samplingman]

Meanwhile the dash cluster cleaning continued.

I can see clearly now, the dirt is gone...

Hello Dali! Looks like I have a regular melting clock....

Faded needles were repainted with Testors Flat Florescent Orange (left one done as comparison)

Silver enamel pen took care of the rubbed-off accents on the bezel:

 

[Samplingman]

I was able to score some needed parts at Carlisle. Thanks to @sportsuburbangt who hooked me up with a clock, the three-speed wiper switch and an ashtray housing (not pictured). The ashtrays and the housings are missing on the parts car and were not present on the '73 NYB. The BlueMo guys must have gotten to them first, or is that just the lighter, LOL?

Note the top switch. I have been looking for just the button for years. Turns out the switch is 1970 only and also used on B bodies (thus the scarcity and high price when it appears on Ebay) as well as wagons (tail gate and rear defrost) The button is actually reversible and reads R.DEF on the other side.

Miracle of miracles, as I was leaving the Carlisle swap at the end of the day I happened across some C-body dash stuff. I almost walked passed. I decided to take a look since the table was under a tent and I was near collapsing from the heat, and there it was sitting in a pile of other switches with a $25 tag.

A couple of things I didn't find at the swap I quickly picked up on eBay for a reasonable price, including the VIN plate decal and the radio seek button. When attempting to fix the parking brake cable issue I noticed three little factory dimples and holes down and to the left of the dimmer. That's when I remembered the car was originally equipped with the feature. A quick search and out of the blue, there it was.

 

[73Coupe]

Continuing on with the wiring, I decided a complete breakdown and cleaning of the dash and all the components were in order. I never really took a hard look at the dash, other than moving it around the garage over the years. The pad has some blemishes and a small crack; the frame had surface rust; the gauges looked tired; and there are some melted connectors.

Not sure but there looks like something should be plugged in to these three slots. The FSM mentions some sort of voltage limiter, but I've got nothing.

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Dirty dash cluster:

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Rust!

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Replacing connector ends was not fun.

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I had a two speed wiper switch and a three-speed motor. More to find at Carlisle.

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Ready for the scrubbing:

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The three plug holes on the back of your instrument cluster are for a voltage limiter. However, some cars didn't have an external limiter - it was built in. See link below. @Big_John 's post #19 summed it up nicely:

"Some cars, like my '70, have a low fuel light with a relay that has the voltage limiter built into it. With that option, there is no limiter in that location."

Is there a way to take out rear defog switch?

Very nice work BTW. I'm getting good ideas here especially the silver paint pen.

 

[ayilar]

Very nice work BTW. I'm getting good ideas here especially the silver paint pen.

Agreed.

@Samplingman, thank you for this interesting/helpful set of photos.

FWIW, my vert's parking brake cables were replaced last year when it was brought back to the land of the living after a 32-year slumber. The person who helped me is a C-body expert, and he made every effort to keep the car original. It took him some time to source the correct emergency/park brake cables.

 

[Big_John]

"Some cars, like my '70, have a low fuel light with a relay that has the voltage limiter built into it. With that option, there is no limiter in that location."

Quoting you, quoting me... LOL... Anyway, that limiter/relay looks like this pic I swiped from eBay. Mounts over by the passenger side ash tray.

 

[Samplingman]

Quoting you, quoting me... LOL... Anyway, that limiter/relay looks like this pic I swiped from eBay. Mounts over by the passenger side ash tray.
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I have one of those! It's a bit rusty, but I also have one from the '73 in nicer shape.

 

[Samplingman]

Speaking of the '73, I came across this firewall insulation "shoddy" that I had forgotten about. It was in good shape and barely attached so I kept it in a box the past several years. I only remembered it when searching the DMT site, and there it was! I just couldn't remember how it was positioned, but a search of FCBO revealed that our very own @MrMoparCHP had supplied DMT with the pattern for the shoddy and the various firewall silencers or insulation. As a result, he posted many helpful pictures to show how it is positioned onto the firewall.

Being in a state of OEM nostalgia (or temporary insanity) I decided to re-use the material that mice and other rodents love to make homes out of.

Here it is after removal from the '73:

Using 3M #90 Hi-Strength spray adhesive, mainly because it has a dial to increase the flow onto the surface:

Spray both surfaces and let sit for a a few minutes:

Had to remove the AC heater box AGAIN...But it looks so nice and OEM.

Hopefully that's the last time it has to come out until the heater core starts to leak.

A couple more silencers in place, but there are still a few holes in the firewall I've yet to identify.

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[Samplingman]

Here is a very cool trick to use when repairing broken plastic components: Crazy Glue and baking soda.

Maybe it's well known, but I just found out about it. I don't know who stumbled across this formula, but it works like nothing else.

Basically, you glue the two broken pieces together with Crazy Glue (I used the original, not the dollar store stuff) and hold as directed. After a minute, add another bead of glue to the crack and quickly sprinkle a small amount of baking soda to the part, then add a few more drops of glue. You can actually see the stuff crystallize and turn hard as a rock making the bond stronger then it was before it broke. After it dries you can actually file and shape the part.

I used the JB Weld on the glove box door before I tried the Crazy Glue and baking soda:

This piece is always broken (top of the column that attaches to the dash)

Cleaned up nice:

 

[65sporty]

The baking soda trick is new to me, but we have a glue kit at work that has the glue and a special powder to add strength. It looks a little more coarse than baking soda.

Found it

We had this also

I will try the baking soda trick though.

 

[ImpJay]

Maybe it's well known, but I just found out about it.

That´s known well in the model kit hobby.

 

[Ripinator]

Here is a very cool trick to use when repairing broken plastic components: Crazy Glue and baking soda.

Maybe it's well known, but I just found out about it. I don't know who stumbled across this formula, but it works like nothing else.

Basically, you glue the two broken pieces together with Crazy Glue (I used the original, not the dollar store stuff) and hold as directed. After a minute, add another bead of glue to the crack and quickly sprinkle a small amount of baking soda to the part, then add a few more drops of glue. You can actually see the stuff crystallize and turn hard as a rock making the bond stronger then it was before it broke. After it dries you can actually file and shape the part.

I used the JB Weld on the glove box door before I tried the Crazy Glue and baking soda:

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This piece is always broken (top of the column that attaches to the dash)

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Cleaned up nice:

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James: I am totally impressed with your efforts here. Totally! Thanks a lot for bringing us along. I got a lotta the same stuff to do with my convertible, and this kind of info helps a lot.

 

[Mr C]

Taking notes on your work for the complete tear down and resto of my 68. Thanks for documenting things!

 

[commando1]

Maybe it's well known, but I just found out about it. I don't know who stumbled across this formula, but it works like nothing else.

Basically, you glue the two broken pieces together with Crazy Glue (I used the original, not the dollar store stuff) and hold as directed. After a minute, add another bead of glue to the crack and quickly sprinkle a small amount of baking soda to the part, then add a few more drops of glue. You can actually see the stuff crystallize and turn hard as a rock making the bond stronger then it was before it broke. After it dries you can actually file and shape the part.

New to me so for passing that along.

 

[Nadir Point]

Piecing together the interior trim in a recent resto was probably the most frustrating thing about the whole project for me. You can't just replace some of that stuff anymore. Now where's she keep the baking soda....

 

[Fratzog]

Now where's she keep the baking soda....

At our place the back of the fridge....

 

[HWYCRZR]

Hmm I may have to try that on my vent cables. One of the plastic tangs on each of my vent bezels broke off. I need two hands to close my vents. I want to try this before I try to find different bezels with good tangs.

 

[73Coupe]

I have used JB weld embedded in sheet metal reinforcement for repairing plastic trim, especially when it's a mounting tab. I'll have to give the baking soda a try, though...

 

[Big_John]

We've talked about similar stuff like Plastex ( PLASTEX, PLASTIC REPAIR KITS, FIX CRACKS, REPAIR PLASTIC ) that is very similar to superglue and baking soda. You can also mix superglue with baby powder and that makes a putty. IMHO, having messed with baking soda/superglue years ago, the Plastex is a little more forgiving and can be shaped. YMMV.