Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

I am still stumped by the different finishes for the grilles. One has silver highlights, the other has all black. I’ve looked at dozens of pictures and there doesn’t seem to be rhyme nor reason for these differences. I’ve seen early builds and late builds, U codes and T codes and Hursts, all having either black or silver grilles

I picked up a complete setup from @Big_John, but decided to go with the silver highlights of my original. Good thing I picked these up however, I needed the support brackets and other hardware that attach to the core support. I had brackets from the ‘69 which once again were completely different than the ones for ’70.

The marker light assemblies had been tucked away for years. I had picked up NOS lenses a few years back, and just needed to clean up and install. To my surprise, I had two left side housings! Damn, I cannot catch a break this year!

Back to eBay and I found a listing for a RH housing, but under closer inspection it was indeed a LH bezel. You can tell by the orientation of the red highlights, a LH bezel situated on the right would not line up with the grille. Once again another member, @challenger340 posted a ‘70 300 parts car and the correct housing is on its way!

Of course, I could have snagged all these parts from my TX9, but then I’d eventually need another parts car for my parts car…..

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Note the left side NOS lens is not painted with the flat black ends. Every left side NOS lens I’ve seen online is unpainted. Did they run out of paint? the Mopar Mysteries are frustrating and fascinating at the same time.

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In all the fenders I’ve had, ‘70, ‘71 and ‘73, there are these internal braces, two on each side, only accessible with the fender wells removed. I spent several hours crawling around looking for the mount in spots on the core support and the firewall to no avail. They were also clearly marked in the engineering manuals with the bolt sizes and placement. Then I looked at the fine print, “not used on model 27”. Not sure why they are deleted from the convertibles, but this once again shows that the convertible core support and now even the firewall is unique to the ‘70 vert!

For those with hardtop or sedan models, the correct supports are round, like the ones in the engine compartment, these pictured are from my ‘73, which incidentally I do not need now.

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Finally, time to paint and install the hood. Long time readers will remember that I hired a mobile media blasting company last year to come to the house and clean up the fenders, hood and deck lid. Turns out that even though they used a water based glass media, they ended up warping the crap out of my panels! I plan on saving the fenders, but the beautifully straight hood was now junk.

I had another hood that I had not planned on using and had been on the side of the shed for the past 10 years. Not expecting much, I dragged it out and aside from a few small dents was surprisingly straight and solid. After beginning the cleaning process on the underside I quickly realized that the frame was severely rotted. Crazy thoughts started swirling around, what if I took the amazingly solid frame from the warped hood and married it to the straight skin of this hood? Well, that’s what I did.

I’ve done door an hood skins before so it wasn‘t rocket science, but doing it to a 75 lbs. panel alone with bad knees was a challenge. I’m glad I did, separating the good frame was easy enough with the spot weld cutter, and seeing the amount of rust and mice nests inside the frame gave me a rare opportunity to create the most rust free hood assembly on the east coast.

I used both chemical and mechanical rust removal processes as well as Corroseal rust converter, topping off with my own concoction of POR 15 and high gloss Rustoleum black. Globs of Eastwood’s seem sealer created the OEM cushion between the hood skin and frame, then spot welded the two together. The assembly was then finished off with epoxy primer and single stage B7 blue.

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Finally, time to paint and install the hood. Long time readers will remember that I hired a mobile media blasting company last year to come to the house and clean up the fenders, hood and deck lid. Turns out that even though they used a water based glass media, they ended up warping the crap out of my panels! I plan on saving the fenders, but the beautifully straight hood was now junk.

I had another hood that I had not planned on using and had been on the side of the shed for the past 10 years. Not expecting much, I dragged it out and aside from a few small dents was surprisingly straight and solid. After beginning the cleaning process on the underside I quickly realized that the frame was severely rotted. Crazy thoughts started swirling around, what if I took the amazingly solid frame from the warped hood and married it to the straight skin of this hood? Well, that’s what I did.

I’ve done door an hood skins before so it wasn‘t rocket science, but doing it to a 75 lbs. panel alone with bad knees was a challenge. I’m glad I did, separating the good frame was easy enough with the spot weld cutter, and seeing the amount of rust and mice nests inside the frame gave me a rare opportunity to create the most rust free hood assembly on the east coast.

I used both chemical and mechanical rust removal processes as well as Corroseal rust converter, topping off with my own concoction of POR 15 and high gloss Rustoleum black. Globs of Eastwood’s seem sealer created the OEM cushion between the hood skin and frame, then spot welded the two together. The assembly was then finished off with epoxy primer and single stage B7 blue.

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James! You are my new hero. Amazing work and extraordinary perseverance!
 
The correct RH park lamp and bezel was just delivered from @challenger340. Excellent fast service, thanks again Willie!



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Got the hood installed today, but everything still needs alignment. Hopefully tackle that next spring or if the weather warms up in November. Lots to do to get the body ready for paint, then interior and top, but at least the last big piece of metal is on and it practically looks like a car again!

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Thats all for now folks!
 
New parts!

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I’m looking forward to this year’s Carlisle and getting around pain free.

Oh yeah, I also scored this nearly crack free steering wheel. I wish these standard wheels would be re-popped, I prefer them over the rim blow padded wheel.

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New parts!

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I’m looking forward to this year’s Carlisle and getting around pain free.

Oh yeah, I also scored this nearly crack free steering wheel. I wish these standard wheels would be re-popped; I prefer them over the rim blow padded
Great news on your knee replacement. excellent score on your steering wheel. That style in premo condition is hard to find.
 
New parts!

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I’m looking forward to this year’s Carlisle and getting around pain free.

Oh yeah, I also scored this nearly crack free steering wheel. I wish these standard wheels would be re-popped, I prefer them over the rim blow padded wheel.

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Hey James! Congrats on the new parts. Looks just like a pair of header long tubes. Did the surgeon use Real Gaskets from Tennessee? :poke:
 
I don't know but I hope they are not made of Chineseium.
:lol:
I've been in the factory where they make all those pieces. Interesting display of a skeleton in the lobby with ALL of their products (not just the ones made there) screwed into or on to this skeleton. I stood there for 5 minutes studying it while waiting for my contact so I could get to work. IIRC, it was somewhere around Elmira, NY, but it was a long time ago.

Also been in a shop where they built some of the prototypes... That was a converted milk barn next to the owner's house. Just two or three guys there. No testing or design, just building to print.

I've got some hardware holding my neck together. Makes for interesting x-rays!
 
By the looks of the waiting room, and the fact that my Doc is schrduling 6 months out, those guys must be pretty busy!
 
James,
That wasn't the update I was expecting, but I'm guessing you'll get more pleasure from that than a car.
John
I did get the steering wheel too, lol. I'll be getting back into the garage this spring. This is the year she get's on the road, but then again I've said that before.....
 
I have just read your entire thread on your 300 restoration project. Very educational, entertaining and inspirational. Impressive perseverance! It makes the past year restoration of my rust free project 1970 Imperial LeBaron 2 d ht seem like a walk in the park in comparison. (See the Showcase section). I am looking forward to seeing your restoration being completed.
I have enclosed pictures of my survivor 69 and 70 300 convertibles.

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That 69 is the same one i had before i shipped to SE asia and had to get rid of in 74. Same maroon and white. Loved that car and colors.
I have a black on gold now im working on. Not show condition but nice for me to enjoy.

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