saylors review - sanuke hx 50b terminal lug wire crimper

[saylor]

I will try that method next crimp for sure. I did exactly backwards of that I crimped the headend first then the tailend.

 

[ricks_RR]

by doing it that way with any crimp that needs two crimps is the best way . thats for your car stereo right

 

[Gerald Morris]

Send that sino-trash "tool" AWAY! "Mad i n Chinna" or however else they show their Kwollitee, sino-potmetal garbage only can cause you grief. I don't even accept sino-**** from the crack-heads that come by offering to sell me some tool rather than shuffling to a pawn shop. I don't even take it for FREE anymore.

Get a propane torch and tin the #4 liberally, then solder it into the lug. Use a good Euro-American STEEL crimper to finally crimp the lug down for mechanical security. The solder provides the electrical security, Thus you will have an "electrically and mechanically secure" joint on that lug which should serve you for decades if need be.

 

[ricks_RR]

if you have the right crimp thats all you need solding and crimping together will not make a better crimp . please let me explain when you have a copper lug and a good and clean copper wire and when you crimp them together they become one . if you solder and then crimp and the lug heats and cools down the solder could separate the crimp because cools quicker then copper .and if it over heats the solder will run out of the connection and cause a short . i will send a picture of a good and a bad crimp

 

[ricks_RR]

here you go

 

[Gerald Morris]

here you goView attachment 343478 View attachment 343479

Yes, a bad crimp won't have as much cross-sectional contact between strands, resulting in lower surface area in conductive contact. Tinning before crimping helps bind the strands in place, assuring conductive contact between strands and, the inner surface of the lug-sleeve. IFF a joint superheats so badly as to cause loss of solder, you likely should have the circuit broken by overcurrent protection first, eh?

 

[ricks_RR]

protection is always good

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

The good ones by someone like Greenlee are expensive.

Most of my tools are old 60s-80s American made. Mostly from E-Bay private sellers. Cheaper than brand new, simple and reliable quality

 

[ricks_RR]

i use greenlee or hubbell or pico or Daniels all USA made

 

[Gerald Morris]

We have a used tool shop downtown that makes it easy to buy good Euro-american steel tools, and when they lack, I shop ePay too. I've been blessed to score from Church sales, where old estates donated vintage tools also. Even the swap-meet (flea market) has supplied me with good stuff. In addition to Greenlee, I use Klein and genuine Channellocks, OLD Craftsman wrenches, ratchets and sockets, all forged in the U.S.A. back when that meant something good. The Southwire stripper I recently purchased from Lowes sports a "Made in U.S.A." label and certainly performs better than the sino-potmetal offered by Milwaukee now. (Had some Kleins that grew wings ...)

I have to thank the Lord for this stuff, which I can't afford, but like the car, I've been blessed to acquire for prices I can support. The old steel often is best, given how this country has heavily squandered its premium iron ore nigh a century past. What gets peddled now by once American corporations oft is ersatz steel like what Krupp developed for Reich 3.0, which got blown to shards by real steel weapons ordered into production by the Red Man of Steel, 1.0.