So this is happening on this FINE Saturday afternoon...

[68NewportDDD]

This thread should have paused at reply #2, but noooooooooo. Everybody had leftover jello they couldn't wait to sling at the wall.
Get the car home, START with what Matt said and only then get back to us.

#troubleshooting

LOVE THIS...slinging jello.

 

[68NewportDDD]

But..but...then we couldn't share our wisdom and insight. What would we do all day if we couldn't do that???

This is why ILOVE this site and alls youse guys! You have NO IDEA how much folks like me learn from all of the input.

 

[commando1]

This is why ILOVE this site and alls youse guys! You have NO IDEA how much folks like me learn from all of the input.

Well, don't forget that there can be information overload if not given in a logical progression.

Personally, I'm gonna wait until he gets back to us after checking his fuel flow.

 

[68NewportDDD]

Go figure. Started up like a CHAMP this morning. I ran her just long enough to get her in to the garage. Let the troubleshooting begin. Whatever it is...it HAS to be someting getting too hot. Ballast resistor is next to be ordered and replaced. I already have the new tank & sending unit. Going to get started on that this afternoon.

 

[Big_John]

Go figure. Started up like a CHAMP this morning. I ran her just long enough to get her in to the garage. Let the troubleshooting begin. Whatever it is...it HAS to be someting getting too hot. Ballast resistor is next to be ordered and replaced. I already have the new tank & sending unit. Going to get started on that this afternoon.

You know I was just kidding about the ballast resistor... Right?

I mean, it's good to have a spare, but you stated there was a problem with fuel flow.

 

[detmatt]

Go figure. Started up like a CHAMP this morning. I ran her just long enough to get her in to the garage. Let the troubleshooting begin. Whatever it is...it HAS to be someting getting too hot. Ballast resistor is next to be ordered and replaced. I already have the new tank & sending unit. Going to get started on that this afternoon.

Don’t start throwing parts at it, not even the new tank and sending unit until you diagnose it.

 

[68NewportDDD]

You know I was just kidding about the ballast resistor... Right?

I mean, it's good to have a spare, but you stated there was a problem with fuel flow.

I dont know at this point. The problem is that it runs GREAT just long enough for me to start trusting it again. And I KNOW the tank and sending unit need replacing so that is going to happen regardless

 

[68NewportDDD]

I dont know at this point. The problem is that it runs GREAT just long enough for me to start trusting it again. And I KNOW the tank and sending unit need replacing so that is going to happen regardless

OK...I ADMIT IT! I had to Google Ballast Resistor...

 

[Big_John]

OK...I ADMIT IT! I had to Google Ballast Resistor...

LOL.

That is one of those parts that has an undeserved reputation of failing. I had one fail in 1978, but I really think it was mostly due to road salt.

What it doesn't (generally) do is give you a problem like this. It's a simple wire coil covered by ceramic. If they fail, they pretty much just fail and the failure is easy to spot because the car starts, but when you let off the key to the run position, it dies. (Exception is the double ballast resistor used in earlier electronic ignition conversion kits).

Basically, it's the throwaway facebook type answer given by guys whose uncle's buddy's car once had a bad ballast resistor. Your car isn't doing this... There's a list of things that could be causing the problem, but as said, throwing parts at it doesn't solve it... or teach you how to diagnose a problem.

Still... a good extra part to have in the glovebox... Easy to switch if the car acts like I described. I carry one, because you never know.

 

[3175375]

LOL.

That is one of those parts that has an undeserved reputation of failing. I had one fail in 1978, but I really think it was mostly due to road salt.

What it doesn't (generally) do is give you a problem like this. It's a simple wire coil covered by ceramic. If they fail, they pretty much just fail and the failure is easy to spot because the car starts, but when you let off the key to the run position, it dies. (Exception is the double ballast resistor used in earlier electronic ignition conversion kits).

Basically, it's the throwaway facebook type answer given by guys whose uncle's buddy's car once had a bad ballast resistor. Your car isn't doing this... There's a list of things that could be causing the problem, but as said, throwing parts at it doesn't solve it... or teach you how to diagnose a problem.

Still... a good extra part to have in the glovebox... Easy to switch if the car acts like I described. I carry one, because you never know.

I have never had problems with a ballast resistor. It’s a piece of wire mounted on a chunk of porcelain.
I suspect that the only reason it might go south is due to physical damage, road salt and / or strong cleaning agents.

 

[polara71]

I have never had problems with a ballast resistor. It’s a piece of wire mounted on a chunk of porcelain.
I suspect that the only reason it might go south is due to physical damage, road salt and / or strong cleaning agents.

I never have either until the summer of 2017. I've always heard of the tale until it happened to me.

I keep a spare now.

 

[azblackhemi]

I never have either until the summer of 2017. I've always heard of the tale until it happened to me.

I keep a spare now.

Happened twice to me. Both times came out of a store got in and it cranked but didn't start. First time sucked but second time I had a spare in the glove box and was on my way in 5 minutes.

 

[Big_John]

I have never had problems with a ballast resistor. It’s a piece of wire mounted on a chunk of porcelain.
I suspect that the only reason it might go south is due to physical damage, road salt and / or strong cleaning agents.

I think that's exactly what happens too.

The tabs that stick out out the porcelain are kind of vulnerable and right where its easy to damage. Wire connectors get yanked off, bent over etc. Road salt sure doesn't help. Probably getting wet while it's running hot shortens its life too. But once the porcelain core breaks, usually the wire isn't far behind.

I remember a starter relay that went bad on a buddy's Dart. 200K mile car, ex phone company vehicle. I popped the hood and the guts of the relay were actually hanging by the wires, loose from the case that was mostly gone due to road salt... It amazed me that it had still been working. Of course, he went a week or so before he replaced it... and he worked at a parts store, so it wasn't like he couldn't get the parts.

 

[68NewportDDD]

UPDATE!

So I finally got to pulling the tank today; got some interesting photopictures. Turns out the tank did NOU have a dead body nor sacks of cash in it...just full of gas (kind of odd I think).

 

[68NewportDDD]

One of the J bolts snapped; the other came off successfully. So I am gonna do what a guy do...trash and replace both of them. The tank had WAY MORE gas than I thought so I did the responsible and safe think and grabbed a 5 gallon bucket and a punch. You guessed it! Since i tried to (unsussceesfully) remove the tank while it was still half full and that did not turn out so well. I did try the manual suck-o-matic 3000.. that was pumping an astonishing .004326 GPH. So I gave up on that and punched a hole in the tank....now THAT made some significant progress. I got a little edgy though when that STRONG STREAM (Ahhh...I remember the strong stram days) was not diminishing and the bucket was filling up. So I swapped the bucket for one of the wife' s plastic storage bins. That got about 2/3 of the way full too. Going to be an interesting trip to the hazardous wsste place tomorrow. Below is what I got after I finisbed pulling the tank:

 

[Mr C]

Keep the original lock ring and gasket if you are putting in a new tank sender...I've had no luck with the new stuff (it leaked). Used the old ring and gasket with new sender and no leaks.

Just my experience and I'd hate for you to throw away parts you may need.
Also you should have a plastic sock over the end of the sender fuel line pick up.

 

[68NewportDDD]

Keep the original lock ring and gasket if you are putting in a new tank sender...I've had no luck with the new stuff (it leaked). Used the old ring and gasket with new sender and no leaks.

Just my experience and I'd hate for you to throw away parts you may need.
Also you should have a plastic sock over the end of the sender fuel line pick up.

View attachment 412192

Yessir! The new unit has a sock.

 

[detmatt]

Looks like you’ll need a new ground strap too. That was the first reason your gas gauge wasn’t working.

 

[John Kirby]

I suggest using the original fuel line as a template and make a new one. As rusted as everything else is it's cheap insurance. You can also upgrade to 3/8" at the same time. Don't forget the chunk of rubber tubing where it enters the frame stub.

 

[detmatt]

I suggest using the original fuel line as a template and make a new one. As rusted as everything else is it's cheap insurance. You can also upgrade to 3/8" at the same time. Don't forget the chunk of rubber tubing where it enters the frame stub.

Upgrading to 3/8” will gain you absolutely nothing with the 5/16” supply on the tank.