Soliciting Opinions

[shooter65]

My intake manifold has three correct carb bolts and one stud with a nut. Because of my OCD I can’t let it go even though it’s at the back of the carb. My factory original intake, part number, 2806178 is date coded 3/17/69. I’ve found one for $50 that is close enough to drive for pick up with same part and date coded 3/3/69. Obviously I couldn’t ask for a better match. My intent is to purchase the one I found as a backup in case I need it, then pull the stud to see if someone simply replaced the bolt with a stud or if there is damage.

What should I look for when looking at the new one. I’m planning to look for cracks and the carb and chock bolt holes, maybe take the bolts and test all the holes. Is there a common place these will crack, is there something else I should look for?

 

[Davea Lux]

My intake manifold has three correct carb bolts and one stud with a nut. Because of my OCD I can’t let it go even though it’s at the back of the carb. My factory original intake, part number, 2806178 is date coded 3/17/69. I’ve found one for $50 that is close enough to drive for pick up with same part and date coded 3/3/69. Obviously I couldn’t ask for a better match. My intent is to purchase the one I found as a backup in case I need it, then pull the stud to see if someone simply replaced the bolt with a stud or if there is damage.

What should I look for when looking at the new one. I’m planning to look for cracks and the carb and chock bolt holes, maybe take the bolts and test all the holes. Is there a common place these will crack, is there something else I should look for?

You could probably pull the incorrect stud and save yourself the expense of buying another manifold. The most common area for cracking is the heat riser passage under the carb.

Dave

 

[PH27L7]

My intake manifold has three correct carb bolts and one stud with a nut.

Believe it is actually the carb bolts which are incorrect for your car. Carb attachment from factory should be four 5/16" studs with heavy hex fine thread nuts, no washers, torque to 200 inch lbs. There are some exceptions that I know of but not for a 1969 383/440 with cast iron intake. Highly unlikely your manifold is cracked, save your $.

 

[413]

We just went over this on another forum. It seems that they started with 4 bolts to attach the carburetor in 1969 model year.

PH27L7 your beautiful White 67 convertible 440 HP should have nuts and studs.


As for the title: My opinion on solicitors? Don’t like em.

 

[shooter65]

Thanks for the responses.

BTW, as stated by @413 above, the 69 L code 440 HP did secure the carburetor to the intake manifold with screws (bolts), part number 181089, not studs. This is from the 1969 Plymouth Engine Equipment Assembly Manual.

I'm going to pick up the other manifold anyway. It's too close to correct to pass it up only to have mine crack or find out there's a helix in the hole after the fact. If I don't need it, I shouldn't have a problem reselling for what I paid for it. I doubt I will likely find another one with a production date only 2 weeks from mine. Like I said, OCD. It's real and it sucks.

 

[CBODY67]

In almost ANY item retention scenario, there is ONE item that is "consumable". If it breaks, the main item is still usable with that particular item replaced. Which is why carb studs are used. If you strip a nut on one of the studs, you put in a new stud and nut. NO dammage to the threads in the intake manifold itself. Easy to fix, usually. Even if a stud is too soft and breaks.

IF you strip the threads in the manifold with a bolt, you've either got to re-thread or heli-coil that hole in the manifold, which usually requires the manifold to be removed (plus other related items!).

The other thing is that studs are easier to deal with on the assembly line. Just "hang" the base gasket and then put the carb on top of it, as things move along. Can't do that with bolts!

Might download a copy of the parts book to see what's there, for good measure, rather than using the FSM solely as an information source. Best to have several information sources to compare to, rather than just one, from my experiences.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[PH27L7]

Studs are more convenient for carbs. Out of curiosity I looked up 1969 parts book & FSM info. Parts book doesn't specify but FSM says nuts are used in the torquing spec. I know that later models used bolts but didn't know they started as early as 1969. Probably some bean counter determined that four studs & nuts cost 1/2 of a cent whereas four bolts cost 4/10 of a cent so bolts it was.

 

[CBODY67]

Bolts would also mean that base gaskets of a certain thckness could be used. Too thin of a gasket (as the replacement carbs and many carb kits seem to come with) would mean the carb would not be held down securely enough (as the bolts would possibly bottom-out in the holes before sufficnent clamping force was reached). Studs/nuts would accomodate ANY thicknes of the base gaskets, provided they were long enough. Plus, the threads in the manifold could be "normal" and the threads for the carb nuts might be "finer", so a better torque might be obtained?

IF you found no Chrysler part numbers in the section where the carb/manifold illustrations was, with the part listings, too, it very well could be that they were considered "Standard Parts" and listed by size/thread specs in the "Standard Parts" section of the catalog. LOTS of neat things in that "nuts & bolts" catalog section. FWIW.

Several dynamics involved in this situation . . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67