I understand the orientation of "ignition system" stuff, just for general principles, if nothing else. That rules out some things as to the ultimate fix, in the process.
I always have bought pre-terminated plug wires. They might take a little finageling to get them into the looms, but generally not much. Many companies will combine applications, over time, to reduce their inventory, by observation.
On the spark plugs, did you check/adjust the plug gap prior to installation? Many claim the plugs are pre-gapped, but I've always used my own gap gauge to ensure they are correct when I install them. The coil might be weak, too, but I've changed coils and nothing changes, if things are working fine as is. I've also observed that even an OEM-spec ACDelco coil is a more universal off-shore item, rather than having the correct markings and such as the original coils did. It it runs, the coil is probably good enough.
Rather than chunking parts, it's always better to do some looking around to get an idea of where the problem might be! IF the issue is "off-idle" from a stop sign, that's most probably an accel pump issue. As mentioned, check for a strong and full pump shot into the primary throttle bores of the carb. It should start almost immediately from when the accel linkage is moved.
Many of the "old timers" (in another forum) like the leather pump cups better as the new fuel doesn't degrade them quite so much as it does the neoprene ones.
If the car hasn't been run in a while, you might well discover that the fuel pump diaphragm will start to seep out of the "weep hole" in the pump body. Even with an ethanol-resistant pump diaphragm, if the car sits long enough for the fuel lines to dry out, and the pump diaphragm to do similar, then the pump diaphragm can become brittle and fail when the car is started/used again. SO, put that on your shopping list. An OEM spec/application pump is all you need. Make sure it matches what's on there, as to location of the fuel inlet and outlet line positions.
As to "crank time", that's a variable situation. Back when these cars were just "used cars", some started "easier" than others did. Usually, though, IF you follow the recommended starting procedure (as stated in the owner's manual, depressing the accel pedal about 1/3 down before you start to crank the engine, holding it there until the engine starts), it will generally start quicker and more reliably. As you get more acquainted with the car and what it "likes", you might make some minor alterations to this procedure.
The 1/3 throttle does several things. It "sets" the automatic choke for the initial start. When the engine starts, the choke pull-off will open the choke plate so the engine can stay running. AND it puts an accel pump shot into the manifold runners to help get the engine started. Do NOT pump the throttle, until you are acquainted enough to know that it needs it! You want just enough additional fuel in the manifold to get the engine started, as more can be too much and flood the engine, or be too rich of a composite mixture for the plugs to fire-off as they should.
IF you read the diagnostic "trees" in many repair manuals, a lot of what's in those lists can be "worst case scenarios", by observation. Points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc., are all in there, plus the timing chain and such. BUT if the car was starting and running decently well, a LOT of those things are generally working well enough for it to start and run. In many cases, the newer parts can be WORSE then the ones you're replacing! Caps and rotors don't wear out, but they do get accumulations of stuff on their inside terminals, which can be removed with a flat-blade screw driver. Same on the rotor top. I've done that many times, and it didn't really make any difference in how the cars performed! Points are "wear items" and have a definite life use, especially provided that the rubbing block on the points has some "point lube" grease put on it when the points are installed. Otherwise, the rubbing block wears and the point adjustment changes! But with the grease, the points can last about 20K miles or more, from my own observations.
ONCE you get the engine running reliably and strong, then do an oil change and start to watch the oil level vs. mileage to check the oil consumption. A quart every 3000 miles would be great. A quart every 1000 miles, not so good, fur within specs for back then. This would be using 10W-30, 10W-40, or straight 30 viscosity oils. With the modern base-stock oils, no real need to go heavier unless there's a specific reason for doing so.
Use a Dexron III-type ATF in the trans. Chrysler or GM-specific power steering fluid in the steering, NOT any ATF, as it'll cause seeps from the hoses and seals, from my own experiences. Change the rear axle fluid for general principles, too.
You can "chunk parts" at a car, spend a lot of money, and NOT fix any problems it might have! Then you can complain that you spent all of this, put all of "that" on, and it still runs poorly. UNLESS you happen to get lucky in the process. But you'll have the "comfort" of knowing what's been changed.
Simple, cheap, easier things first. Spend sparingly, if possible. Remember that a fuel system problem can have the same performance issues as an ignition system problem. Gotta have "fuel and fire" to make things happen. Then steering and brakes to modulate "things which have happened".
Enjoy!
CBODY67